Circulation Pump with Heater, Heat Pump Assembly, Circulation Motor with Heating Element, Wash Motor with Heater, Pump and Heater Assembly, BLDC Motor Assembly

12008381, 9001.141.944, 9001141944, AP5988445, PS11724988, EAP11724988

Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau

BoschSHE89PW55N, SHE89PW75N, SHP865WD5N, SHP865ZP5N, SHP878WD5N, SHP878ZD5N, SHP878ZP5N, SHPM65W55N, SHPM65Z55N, SHPM78W55N, SHPM78Z55N, SHPM88Z75N, SHSM63W55N, SHSM78W55N, SHSM88Z75N, SHVM63W53N, SHVM78W53N, SHVM98W73N, SHXM63W55N, SHXM78W55N, SHXM88Z75N, SHE3AR55UC, SHE3AR75UC, SHE53TL5UC, SHE58C05UC, SHE58C15UC, SHE58M05UC, SHE58M15UC, SHE65T55UC, SHE68T55UC, SHE89PW55N/01, SHE89PW75N/01, SHP65T55UC, SHP865WD5N/01, SHP865ZP5N/01, SHP878WD5N/01

ThermadorDWHD440MFP, DWHD440MFM, DWHD640MFP, DWHD640MFM, DWHD650WFP, DWHD650WFM, DWHD660WFP, DWHD660WFM, DWHD770WFP, DWHD770WFM, DWHD870WFP, DWHD870WFM, DWHD940MFP, DWHD940MFM, DWHD950MFP, DWHD950MFM

GaggenauDF481761, DF481761F, DF481762, DF481762F, DF481764, DF481764F, DI481710, DI481711, DI481712

Professional Repair Time: 60-75 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 90-120 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Moderate-Advanced (3.5/5) — Requires moderate-advanced mechanical and electrical skills, working with 120V electrical connections and high-wattage heating element, disconnection of water supply, removal of spray arms and filter assembly, removal of sump cover, disconnection of electrical connectors and water hoses, handling heavy assembly (15-20 pounds), installation of new hose clamps, proper reassembly with leak prevention, testing and verification

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working with electrical connections (120V AC, high-wattage heating element) and water supply lines. Always disconnect power at the circuit breaker and shut off the water supply before beginning work to prevent electrical shock, burns, and water damage. This is a heavy assembly (15-20 pounds) requiring careful handling. If uncomfortable with this repair, hire a qualified technician.TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, Torx T20 screwdriver (some models), adjustable wrench or pliers, towels for water cleanup, bucket or shallow pan, flashlight, socket set (optional), multimeter for testing (optional).

1. Turn off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher at the main electrical panel. CRITICAL: Dishwashers use 120V AC with high-wattage heating elements—turning off the breaker is essential for safety.
2. Verify power is off using a non-contact voltage tester at the dishwasher control panel.
3. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher at the shutoff valve (typically under the kitchen sink). Turn the valve clockwise to close.
4. Open the dishwasher door fully and remove all dish racks (upper, middle if present, and lower racks) from the dishwasher. Set aside.
5. Take multiple photos of the dishwasher interior, spray arm positions, filter assembly, and sump area before disassembly. This is critical for proper reassembly.
6. Remove the lower spray arm by pulling up on it (some models) or unscrewing the center cap counterclockwise and lifting off. Set aside.
7. Remove the filter assembly from the bottom of the tub. Typically consists of a cylindrical filter and flat fine filter. Lift out the cylindrical filter by turning counterclockwise and pulling up, then remove the flat filter. Set aside.
8. Remove the spray arm support (if present) by unscrewing or unclipping it from the sump area.
9. Remove the sump cover screws (typically 3-6 Torx T20 or Phillips screws around the perimeter of the sump cover at the bottom of the tub). Keep screws organized.
10. Lift out the sump cover carefully and set aside. You now have access to the circulation pump assembly.
11. Place towels or a shallow pan under the dishwasher to catch residual water that will drain when hoses are disconnected.
12. Take detailed close-up photos of all electrical connections, water hose connections, and pump mounting position from multiple angles. CRITICAL: Proper reconnection is essential for operation and leak prevention.
13. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the circulation pump motor and heating element. Press the release tabs and pull the connectors straight off. Important: There are typically 2-3 connectors—motor power, heater power, and possibly a thermal sensor. Label connectors if necessary.
14. Loosen the hose clamps on the water inlet and outlet hoses connected to the pump assembly using a flathead screwdriver or pliers. Slide clamps away from the pump ports.
15. Disconnect the water hoses from the pump inlet and outlet ports by pulling them straight off. Caution: Residual water will drain—use towels to catch spillage.
16. Remove the pump mounting screws or brackets that secure the circulation pump assembly to the dishwasher base (typically 2-4 screws or clips). Some models use a motor suspension strap—remove mounting hardware.
17. Carefully lift out the old circulation pump with heater assembly from the dishwasher. Caution: The assembly is heavy (15-20 pounds) and awkward—use both hands and proper lifting technique.
18. Set the old assembly on a clean work surface and inspect for visible damage.
19. Inspect the old pump assembly for failure indicators: burned or damaged electrical connections, cracked or damaged pump housing, broken impeller blades (visible through inlet port), mineral deposits or scale buildup on heating element, corrosion on motor housing, or damaged seals. This confirms the diagnosis.
20. Test the old motor with a multimeter (optional) set to measure resistance (ohms). Test between motor terminals—should read approximately 8-15 ohms for BLDC motor windings. Infinite reading = open circuit (motor failure). Very low reading (under 2 ohms) = shorted motor.
21. Test the old heating element with a multimeter (optional). Test between heater terminals—should read approximately 15-20 ohms (for 1800-2000W element at 120V). Infinite reading = burned out element. Very low reading = shorted element.
22. Clean the pump mounting area in the dishwasher base, removing any debris, mineral deposits, or old gasket material.
23. Inspect the water hoses for cracks, damage, or deterioration. Replace hoses if damaged (not included with pump—order separately if needed).
24. Unpack the new 12008381 circulation pump with heater assembly from its packaging. Caution: Handle carefully—assembly is heavy and contains fragile components.
25. Compare the new assembly to the old one to verify dimensions, port locations, electrical connector types, and mounting hole positions match.
26. Inspect the new assembly for any shipping damage before installation. Check pump housing for cracks, impeller for damage, and electrical connections for integrity.
27. Test the new motor and heater with a multimeter (optional)—motor should read 8-15 ohms, heater should read 15-20 ohms.
28. Install any gaskets or seals included with the new pump assembly according to the installation instructions.
29. Position the new circulation pump with heater assembly in the dishwasher base, aligning the mounting holes and ensuring proper orientation. The inlet and outlet ports should align with the water hoses.
30. Install the pump mounting screws or brackets and tighten firmly but not excessively. If a motor suspension strap is included, install according to instructions for vibration isolation.
31. Verify the pump is securely mounted with no movement or play.
32. Reconnect the water inlet hose to the pump inlet port, pushing it fully onto the port until it seats completely.
33. Install a new hose clamp (included with assembly) on the inlet hose and tighten securely with a screwdriver. Position the clamp approximately 1/2 inch from the port end.
34. Reconnect the water outlet hose to the pump outlet port, pushing it fully onto the port until it seats completely.
35. Install a new hose clamp on the outlet hose and tighten securely. Position the clamp approximately 1/2 inch from the port end.
36. Verify both hose connections are secure by gently tugging on the hoses—should not pull off.
37. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the circulation pump motor and heating element. Push connectors firmly together until you hear/feel them click into place. CRITICAL: Ensure correct connections—motor connector to motor, heater connector to heater. Incorrect connections cause component damage.
38. Verify all electrical connections are secure by gently tugging on each connector.
39. Double-check all connections against your detailed photos to ensure correct installation.
40. Reinstall the sump cover by positioning it over the pump assembly and aligning the screw holes.
41. Install the sump cover screws and tighten firmly in a cross pattern to ensure even sealing. Do not overtighten—plastic components can crack.
42. Reinstall the spray arm support (if removed) by clipping or screwing it into place.
43. Reinstall the flat fine filter in the sump area, ensuring it seats properly in the grooves.
44. Reinstall the cylindrical filter by inserting it into the center opening and turning clockwise until it locks into place.
45. Reinstall the lower spray arm by positioning it on the spray arm support and pushing down (snap-on type) or installing the center cap and tightening clockwise.
46. Verify the spray arm rotates freely by spinning it by hand—should rotate smoothly without binding.
47. Reinstall the dish racks (lower, middle if present, and upper racks) in their original positions.
48. Turn on the water supply by turning the shutoff valve counterclockwise until fully open.
49. Check for water leaks at the shutoff valve and supply line connections. Tighten if necessary.
50. Restore electrical power by turning on the circuit breaker.
51. Close the dishwasher door and run a short rinse cycle or test cycle to verify operation.
52. Listen for proper pump operation—should hear water circulating with a smooth humming sound, no grinding or loud noises.
53. Check for water leaks under the dishwasher and around the pump area during the test cycle. Open the door mid-cycle if necessary to inspect (dishwasher will pause).
54. Verify water is heating by running a heated wash cycle and checking water temperature mid-cycle (carefully touch the tub interior or dishes—should be hot, approximately 140-160°F).
55. Verify spray arms are rotating by opening the door mid-cycle (dishwasher will pause) and observing spray arm movement—should rotate freely with strong water pressure.
56. Check for error codes on the dishwasher display. No error codes should appear if installation is correct.
57. Run a complete normal wash cycle with dishes to verify full operation under normal load conditions.
58. Monitor the cycle for proper operation: water circulation, heating, spray arm rotation, and drainage.
59. Inspect under the dishwasher after the complete cycle for any water leaks. Dry any residual water from installation.
60. If the dishwasher operates properly with good water circulation, heating, and no leaks, the repair is complete.

Safety Notes: Always disconnect power at the circuit breaker and shut off water supply before working on dishwashers. The circulation pump assembly is heavy (15-20 pounds)—use proper lifting technique. Take extensive photos of all connections before disassembly. Use new hose clamps provided with the assembly—old clamps may not seal properly. Verify correct electrical connections—incorrect wiring damages components. Check for leaks during test cycle. This repair requires moderate-advanced mechanical and electrical skills.

1. The 12008381 combines circulation pump and heating element in one integrated assembly—both functions must work for proper dishwasher operation. If either the motor or heater fails, the entire assembly must be replaced. You cannot replace just the motor or just the heater. This integrated design improves efficiency but requires complete assembly replacement.
2. Always test both the motor and heating element with a multimeter before replacement to confirm which component has failed. Motor windings should read 8-15 ohms. Heating element should read 15-20 ohms. Infinite reading = open circuit (failed component). Very low reading = short circuit. This diagnostic confirms the failure and verifies the new assembly before installation.
3. BLDC (brushless DC) motors are more efficient and quieter than older AC motors but require electronic control from the dishwasher control board. If the new pump doesn't run, check for control board failures or wiring problems. BLDC motors won't operate without proper electronic signals from the control board. Verify the control board is sending power to the motor connector.
4. The integrated heating element heats water as it flows through the pump housing (flow-through design)—this is more efficient than separate immersion heaters. Water passes over the heating element inside the pump housing, heating continuously during circulation. This design heats water faster and maintains consistent temperature throughout the wash cycle.
5. Always use new hose clamps provided with the assembly—old clamps lose tension and cause leaks. The new assembly includes new clamps specifically sized for the hose connections. Reusing old clamps is the most common cause of leaks after pump replacement. Tighten clamps securely but not excessively—overtightening can damage hoses.
6. Mineral deposits and scale buildup on the heating element are the most common cause of heater failure. Hard water leaves calcium and lime deposits that insulate the element, causing it to overheat and burn out. Use dishwasher cleaner monthly and rinse aid to reduce mineral buildup. Consider a water softener if you have very hard water.
7. Foreign objects (broken glass, food debris, utensil fragments) cause pump impeller damage and motor bearing failure. Always scrape dishes before loading and check the filter regularly. Broken glass or hard objects jam the impeller, causing motor overload and bearing damage. Inspect the sump area for debris before installing the new pump.
8. The motor suspension strap (if included) provides vibration isolation—install it correctly for quieter operation. The strap suspends the motor and reduces vibration transfer to the dishwasher cabinet. Incorrect installation or missing strap causes excessive noise and vibration. Follow installation instructions carefully for proper strap positioning.
9. Verify correct electrical connections—the pump has separate connectors for motor power, heater power, and thermal sensor. Incorrect connections cause component damage or failure to operate. Motor connector typically has 3-4 wires (BLDC motor control), heater connector has 2 wires (power), thermal sensor has 2 wires (temperature monitoring). Label connectors during removal if necessary.
10. If the new pump runs but water doesn't circulate, check for air locks in the system or blocked spray arm ports. Air trapped in the pump housing prevents water circulation. Run a rinse cycle to purge air from the system. Check spray arm ports for clogs—mineral deposits or food debris block water flow. Clean spray arms thoroughly.
11. The circulation pump also assists with drainage in many Bosch models—if the dishwasher won't drain after pump replacement, check drain hose connections and drain pump operation. Some models use the circulation pump to assist drainage. Verify the drain hose is properly connected and not kinked. Check the separate drain pump (if equipped) for proper operation.
12. Monitor the first few cycles after installation for leaks—hose connections may need adjustment or additional tightening. Check under the dishwasher after the first cycle, after 24 hours, and after one week. Small leaks may not appear immediately but develop over time as hoses settle. Tighten clamps if minor seepage occurs.

• Dishwasher not washing (no water circulation)
• No spray arm rotation or weak spray pressure
• Grinding, loud humming, or rattling noise during wash cycle
• Dishwasher not heating water (dishes come out cold or not clean)
• Poor cleaning performance (insufficient water pressure or temperature)
• Error codes E24, E25, E22 (circulation or heating faults)
• Dishwasher shutting off mid-cycle
• Burning smell during operation
• Visible water leaks from bottom of dishwasher
• Motor running but no water circulation
• Water not draining properly (pump assists with drainage)
• Dishwasher runs but dishes not clean