Heating Element Assembly, Heater Assembly, Dryer Heater, Electric Heating Element, Heating Coil Assembly, Complete Heater Unit

Part number 5301EL1001A replaces 5301EL1001E, 5301EL1001G, 5301EL1001H, 5301EL1001J, AEG72910307

LG, Kenmore Elite

DLE0332W, DLE0442W, DLE2512W, DLE2514W, DLE2515S, DLE3733S, DLE3777W, DLE5977B, DLE5977S, DLE5977SM, DLE5977W, DLE6942W, DLE8377NM, DLE8377WM, DLE9577SM, DLE9577WM, DLE2532W, DLE7177RM, DLE5932W, DLE5932S, TDV10031E, TDV10030E, DLE3733U, TDV10032E, TDV10035E, TDV10135E, TDV10177EM, CDE3379WN, TDV10090E, TDV10244E, TDV10245E, DLE2101W, TDV10246E, TDV10248E, TDV10051E, TDV10052E, DLE1310W, TDV10053E, TDV10055E, TDV10056E, TDV10159EM, TDV10170EM, TDV10180EM, TDV10056EM, TDV10186EM, DLE0442G, DLE2140W, DLE2240W, DLE2516W, DLE3733D, DLE3733W, DLE7177WM, DLEX7177RM, DLEX7177WM, DLEX8377NM, DLEX8377WM, RV1306AT, RV1306BT, RV1307B, RV1309AT, RV1309BT, TDV10060E, TDV10062E, TDV10066E, TDV10092E, TDV10092EK, TDV10150EM, TDV10240E, TDV10241E, TDV10249E, GD1329QEW2, GD1329LES, GD1329LED, DLE5977BM, GD1329CED2, CDE3379WD, GD1329LED2, GD1329QEW, GD1329CEW2, GD1329CES2, GD1329QED, GD1329CED, TDV10021E, GD1329CES, GD1329CEU, GD1329LEU, GD1329QES, GD1329LEW, TDV10020E

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working with 240V electrical connections and high-temperature components. Always turn off the circuit breaker and disconnect power before beginning work to prevent electrical shock. Electric dryers operate on 240V AC which is potentially lethal—extreme caution is required. This is an advanced repair requiring dryer disassembly and careful handling of electrical connections. If you are not comfortable working with electrical systems or dryer disassembly, hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

1. Turn off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the dryer at the main electrical panel. CRITICAL: Electric dryers operate on 240V AC (two hot legs plus neutral and ground)—turning off the circuit breaker is absolutely critical for safety to prevent electrical shock.
2. Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet (if accessible) for additional safety. Many dryers are hard-wired directly to the electrical panel and cannot be unplugged—in this case, turning off the circuit breaker is sufficient.
3. Verify power is completely off by attempting to turn on the dryer. The dryer should not respond, the display should be blank, and no lights should illuminate. Important: Use a non-contact voltage tester to verify no voltage is present at the dryer electrical connection before proceeding.
4. Disconnect the dryer exhaust vent hose from the rear of the dryer by loosening the hose clamp (use pliers or screwdriver to loosen) and pulling the hose off the dryer exhaust port.
5. Pull the dryer away from the wall to provide access to the rear panel and sides. You may need assistance to move the dryer safely—dryers are heavy (100-150 pounds) and awkward to move.
6. Take multiple photos of the heating element installation, mounting position, wire connections, and how the element attaches to the dryer cabinet before disassembly. Document from multiple angles including close-ups of wire connections. This is absolutely critical for proper reassembly and correct wire connections. Use a camera or smartphone to capture high-quality, well-lit images.
7. Locate the heating element assembly inside the dryer cabinet (typically at the rear lower section of the dryer, visible from the rear). The exact location varies by model—refer to your dryer service manual or online parts diagram for your specific model.
8. Remove the dryer rear access panel to access the heating element. For most LG dryers, this involves: (a) removing screws around the perimeter of the rear panel (typically 6-10 Phillips-head screws); (b) lifting the panel off the mounting tabs and setting it aside in a safe location. Note: Some models require removing the top panel or front panel instead—refer to your service manual for your specific model.
9. Take additional detailed photos of all wire connections to the heating element before disconnecting. Note the wire colors (typically red and black for L1/L2 power, white or blue for thermostat/thermal fuse), terminal positions, and routing for proper reconnection. CRITICAL: Incorrect wire connections will cause the dryer to malfunction, not heat, or create a fire hazard.
10. Label all wire connections with masking tape or labels indicating their positions and functions (e.g., "L1 Power - Red", "L2 Power - Black", "Thermostat - Blue", "High Limit - White") to ensure correct reconnection. This is critical for proper operation and safety.
11. Disconnect all electrical wires from the heating element assembly terminals by removing the spade connectors or loosening the screw terminals. For spade connectors, grip the connector (not the wire) and pull straight off the terminal. For screw terminals, loosen the screws counterclockwise and remove the wire loops. Important: Do not pull on the wires—always grip the connector or use pliers to remove connectors.
12. Take photos of each wire as you disconnect it to document the exact position, terminal location, and wire routing for reconnection.
13. Remove the heating element mounting screws or brackets that secure the element housing to the dryer cabinet frame (typically 2-4 screws, usually Phillips-head or hex-head).
14. Carefully remove the old heating element assembly from the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the mounting position and maneuvering it through the access opening. Place it on a clean work surface with adequate space for inspection. Caution: The heating element housing may have sharp edges—wear work gloves to protect your hands from cuts.
15. Inspect the old heating element for visible damage such as broken or burned heating coil (visible through the housing air openings or inlet/outlet ports), blown thermal fuse (visible burn marks, melted fuse body, or broken fuse element), corroded or damaged housing (rust, cracks, or holes), burned or corroded electrical terminals (blackened, melted, or loose terminals), damaged insulator supports (cracked or broken ceramics), coil touching the housing (short circuit condition), or lint buildup on the heating coil. This confirms the diagnosis and helps identify the root cause of failure.
16. Test the old heating element with a multimeter to confirm failure. Set the multimeter to measure resistance (ohms). Touch the multimeter probes to the two main power terminals on the heating element (where L1 and L2 connect). A functioning heating element should show resistance between 8-12 ohms (typical for 5000-5400 watt elements at 240V—calculated as R = V²/P = 240²/5400 = 10.7 ohms). If the reading is infinite or "OL" (open circuit), the heating coil is broken. If the reading is near zero or significantly lower than expected (less than 5 ohms), there may be a short circuit or partial coil failure. Note: Also test for continuity between each power terminal and the housing (ground)—there should be infinite resistance (no continuity). If there is continuity (low resistance), the heating coil is shorted to the housing and must be replaced.
17. Test the thermal fuses and thermostats on the old heating element using the multimeter set to measure continuity or resistance. A functioning thermal fuse or thermostat should show continuity (near-zero resistance, typically less than 1 ohm) when cool. If there is no continuity (infinite resistance or "OL"), the thermal fuse has blown or the thermostat has failed open. Important: The high-limit thermal fuse is a one-time safety device—once it blows, it cannot reset and must be replaced. The operating thermostat should show continuity when cool and open (no continuity) when heated above its set point temperature.
18. Inspect the dryer exhaust vent system thoroughly for blockages, lint buildup, or restrictions. CRITICAL: Blocked exhaust vents are the #1 cause of heating element failure due to overheating and thermal fuse failure. A blocked vent restricts air flow, causing the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse. Clean the entire exhaust vent system from the dryer to the outside vent cap before installing the new heating element. Use a vent cleaning brush or vacuum to remove all lint and debris. Check for: (a) crushed or kinked vent hose; (b) excessive vent length (should be less than 25 feet with minimal bends); (c) lint buildup in vent pipe; (d) blocked outside vent cap (bird nests, lint buildup, or stuck flapper); (e) improper vent material (plastic or foil accordion-style vents are fire hazards—use rigid metal vent pipe).
19. Inspect the dryer blower wheel and housing for lint buildup or damage. Remove the blower housing cover (if accessible) and inspect the blower wheel. Clean the blower wheel and housing thoroughly using a vacuum and brush—restricted air flow from lint buildup causes overheating and heating element failure. Verify the blower wheel spins freely and is not damaged or loose on the motor shaft.
20. Inspect the heating element mounting area in the dryer cabinet for damage, corrosion, or debris. Clean the mounting area if necessary using a dry cloth or vacuum to remove lint and debris.
21. Inspect all wire terminals and connectors for corrosion, damage, burned insulation, or loose connections. Replace damaged wires or connectors. Clean corroded terminals using fine sandpaper or a wire brush.
22. Unpack the new 5301EL1001A heating element assembly from its packaging. Handle carefully to avoid damaging the heating coil or housing. Caution: The heating element housing may have sharp edges—wear work gloves to protect your hands.
23. Verify the heating element specifications match the old element: housing dimensions approximately 10-14 inches length x 8-10 inches width x 3-5 inches depth, electrical terminal positions and types (screw terminals or spade connectors), mounting hole locations and spacing, power rating (5000-5400 watts at 240V), thermostat and thermal fuse locations and ratings, air inlet and outlet opening sizes and positions.
24. Compare the new heating element to the old one to verify the dimensions, terminal positions, mounting holes, and overall appearance match. Ensure you have the correct replacement part. Important: Installing an incorrect heating element can cause poor drying performance, overheating, or safety hazards.
25. Inspect the new heating element for any damage or defects before installation. The housing should be intact with no visible damage, dents, or cracks. The heating coil should be properly supported by insulators with no coil touching the housing (verify by looking through the air openings). The electrical terminals should be clean, straight, and undamaged. The thermal fuses and thermostats should be properly attached and undamaged.
26. Test the new heating element with a multimeter (optional but recommended) to verify proper operation before installation. Measure resistance between the two main power terminals—it should read 8-12 ohms. Verify no continuity between power terminals and housing (ground)—reading should be infinite. Test continuity of thermal fuse and thermostat—both should show continuity when cool. This confirms the new element is functional before installation and avoids the frustration of installing a defective part.
27. Position the new heating element assembly in the dryer cabinet, aligning the mounting holes with the mounting points on the dryer frame. Orient the element so the electrical terminals are accessible for wire connections and the air inlet/outlet openings align with the air flow path (inlet from blower, outlet to drum).
28. Install the heating element mounting screws and tighten using a Phillips screwdriver or nut driver. Tighten firmly but do not overtighten, which can crack the housing, strip the mounting holes, or damage the frame. Typical torque is hand-tight plus 1/4 turn.
29. Verify the heating element is securely mounted and does not wobble or shift when gently pressed. The element should be firmly attached to the frame with no movement.
30. Reconnect all electrical wires to the heating element terminals by attaching the spade connectors or tightening the screw terminals. Refer to your detailed photos and wire labels to ensure correct connections. CRITICAL: Incorrect wire connections will cause the dryer to malfunction or create a fire hazard. Typical wire connections are: (a) L1 power (red or black wire) to one main terminal; (b) L2 power (black or red wire) to the other main terminal through thermal fuse and thermostat; (c) thermostat wires (blue or white) connecting the operating thermostat in series with the heating element; (d) thermal fuse wires (white or blue) connecting the high-limit thermal fuse in series with the heating element. Push spade connectors firmly onto the terminals until they are fully seated and locked in place. For screw terminals, loop the wire around the screw clockwise and tighten the screw firmly.
31. Verify all electrical connections are secure by gently tugging on each wire connector. The connectors should not pull off—they should be firmly attached to the terminals.
32. Double-check all wire connections by comparing your installation to your detailed photos and wire labels. Verify each wire is attached to the correct terminal and in the correct position. Important: Take your time with this step—incorrect wiring is the most common installation error.
33. Verify no wires are pinched, crushed, or touching the heating element housing or other hot surfaces. Route wires away from the heating element and secure them with wire ties or clips if necessary.
34. Reinstall the dryer rear access panel by positioning the panel on the mounting tabs and installing the mounting screws. Tighten the screws firmly in a cross-pattern to ensure even panel seating.
35. Verify the access panel is securely installed and sits flush with the dryer cabinet with no gaps.
36. Reconnect the dryer exhaust vent hose to the rear of the dryer by pushing the hose fully onto the exhaust port and securing it with the hose clamp. Tighten the hose clamp firmly using pliers or a screwdriver. Important: Ensure the hose is pushed fully onto the port—a loose connection will allow hot, moist air to escape into the room and reduce drying efficiency.
37. Push the dryer back toward the wall, leaving enough space (4-6 inches) to prevent the exhaust vent hose from being crushed or kinked.
38. Restore power by turning on the circuit breaker at the main electrical panel.
39. Plug in the dryer (if it was unplugged).
40. Turn on the dryer and verify the heating element powers up. Select a timed dry cycle (high heat or normal heat) and press start.
41. Allow the dryer to run for 3-5 minutes and verify the heating element is generating heat. Open the dryer door briefly and feel the air inside the drum—it should be warm to hot (130-160°F). Caution: Do not touch the heating element directly—it will be extremely hot (300-400°F).
42. Listen for unusual noises during operation. The dryer should operate smoothly and quietly with only normal blower and drum rotation sounds. There should be no buzzing, arcing, or electrical sounds from the heating element area.
43. Verify the dryer is exhausting air properly by checking the outside vent cap. You should feel strong, warm air flow from the vent cap. If air flow is weak, recheck the exhaust vent system for blockages or restrictions.
44. Monitor the dryer temperature during the first few minutes of operation. The dryer should heat up quickly and maintain a consistent temperature. If the dryer overheats or the thermal fuse blows immediately, stop the dryer and recheck the exhaust vent system for blockages.
45. Allow the test cycle to run for 10-15 minutes to verify proper heating element operation and temperature cycling. The heating element should cycle on and off as the operating thermostat maintains the set temperature.
46. After the test cycle, stop the dryer and verify the heating element area is not overheating. The housing should be hot but not glowing red or showing signs of excessive heat.
47. Run a complete drying cycle with a small load of laundry to verify proper drying performance. Use old towels or similar items that can withstand testing.
48. Verify the clothes dry completely in a normal time frame (typically 30-60 minutes depending on load size and fabric type). If clothes take too long to dry, recheck the exhaust vent system for restrictions.
49. After the first complete drying cycle, inspect the heating element area again for any signs of overheating, burning smell, or unusual operation.
50. If the heating element operates properly and clothes dry effectively, the repair is complete and the dryer is ready for normal use.

Safety Notes: Always turn off the circuit breaker before working on the dryer to prevent electrical shock from 240V AC. Use a non-contact voltage tester to verify power is off before touching any electrical connections. Handle the heating element carefully—the housing may have sharp edges. Wear work gloves for protection. Clean the exhaust vent system thoroughly before installing the new heating element—blocked vents are the #1 cause of heating element failure. Test the heating element with a multimeter before replacement to confirm failure and avoid unnecessary replacement. Label all wire connections before disconnecting to ensure correct reconnection. Take detailed photos of all wire connections before disassembly. Do not overtighten mounting screws or electrical terminals. Verify all wire connections are secure and correctly positioned before restoring power. Monitor the dryer during the first few cycles after repair to ensure proper operation. This repair requires advanced mechanical and electrical skills and careful attention to safety—if you are not comfortable working with 240V electrical systems, hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

1. Always clean the exhaust vent system thoroughly before replacing the heating element—blocked vents are the #1 cause of heating element failure. A blocked exhaust vent restricts air flow, causing the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse. Clean the entire vent system from the dryer to the outside vent cap, remove all lint buildup from the blower housing, and verify strong air flow at the outside vent before installing the new heating element. This prevents premature failure of the new element.
2. Test the heating element with a multimeter before replacement to confirm failure and identify the specific problem. Measure resistance between the two main power terminals—a functioning element should read 8-12 ohms. Infinite resistance indicates a broken coil. Also test for continuity between power terminals and housing (ground)—there should be no continuity. If continuity exists, the coil is shorted to the housing. Test the thermal fuse and thermostat for continuity—both should show continuity when cool.
3. The heating element operates at 240V AC and draws 20-25 amps—correct wire connections are critical for safety. Incorrect wiring can cause no heating, intermittent operation, or fire hazards. Always label wires before disconnecting and take detailed photos. Typical connections: L1 and L2 power wires connect to the main terminals, with the thermal fuse and operating thermostat wired in series with the element to provide temperature control and safety protection.
4. The high-limit thermal fuse (typically rated 250°F-280°F) is a one-time safety device that cannot reset. Once it blows due to overheating, it must be replaced. If the thermal fuse blows repeatedly after replacement, the root cause is exhaust vent blockage, blower failure, or thermostat malfunction—fix the underlying problem before replacing the element again or the new thermal fuse will blow immediately.
5. The operating thermostat (typically rated 130°F-150°F) cycles the heating element on and off to maintain proper drying temperature. When air temperature rises above the set point, the thermostat opens and stops power to the element. When temperature drops below the set point, the thermostat closes and restores power. If the thermostat fails closed (stuck), the dryer will overheat. If it fails open, the dryer will not heat at all.
6. Verify the heating element is properly seated and all mounting screws are tight before connecting wires. A loose heating element can vibrate during operation, causing wire connections to loosen or break. The element should be firmly mounted with no movement when pressed.
7. The nichrome heating coil should never touch the metal housing—this causes a short circuit and immediate failure. The ceramic or mica insulators hold the coil in position and prevent contact with the housing. Inspect the new element before installation to verify the coil is properly supported and not touching the housing. If the coil touches the housing, the element is defective and should not be installed.
8. Heating elements typically last 8-12 years with normal use and proper maintenance. With average use (5-7 loads per week) and clean exhaust vents, heating elements typically last 10-12 years before failure. Factors that shorten element life include: blocked exhaust vents (causes overheating), overloading the dryer (reduces air flow), running the dryer without cleaning the lint filter (restricts air flow), and electrical surges or power fluctuations.
9. After installing the new heating element, monitor the dryer during the first few cycles to verify proper operation. Check for proper heating (warm/hot air in drum), normal temperature cycling (element cycles on and off), no unusual noises or smells, and proper drying time (30-60 minutes for typical loads). If the dryer overheats, stops heating, or the thermal fuse blows immediately, stop operation and recheck the exhaust vent system and wire connections.
10. The complete heating element assembly includes the housing, coil, thermal fuse, and operating thermostat—all components are replaced together. While individual components (thermal fuse, thermostat) can be replaced separately, replacing the complete assembly ensures all components are new and eliminates multiple potential failure points. This is more cost-effective and reliable than replacing individual components, especially for elements over 8 years old.