Drain Pump Assembly, Base Pump, Sump Pump

WPW11412291, AP6022534, PS11756291, EAP11756291, W10348269, W10510667, W10876537, W10919911, W11032770, 8558995

Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Kenmore

Whirlpool: WDF520PADM7, WDF540PADM7, WDF560SAFM0, WDT730PAHZ0, WDT750SAHZ0, WDT780SAEM0, WDTA50SAHZ0, WDTA80SAH0, WDP370PAHB0, WDP540HAMZ0

KitchenAid: KDFE104HPS0, KDFE104HPS1, KDFE104HWH0, KDTE334GPS0, KDTE334GPS1, KDTM354ESS0, KDTM384ESS0, KDTM404KPS0, KDPM604KPS0, KDPE234GPS0

Maytag: MDB4949SDM0, MDB4949SDZ0, MDB7959SKZ0, MDB8959SKZ0, MDB9959SKZ0, MDB4949SHZ0, MDB8959SFZ0, MDB7749SBM0, MDB7749SDM0

Jenn-Air: JDB9000CWP0, JDB9800CWS0, JDB9800CWP0, JDB8000AWP0, JDB8200AWS0, JDB1255AWS0

Amana: ADP1400PYW0, ADP1400PYB0, ADP1600PYW0, ADB1400PYW0, ADB1400PYB0

Kenmore: 665.13242K900, 665.13243K900, 665.13249K900, 665.13542K900, 665.13543K900, 665.14542K900

Note: This is a partial list. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering.

Professional: 45-60 minutes
DIY: 90-120 minutes
Difficulty Level: Medium repair (requires access underneath dishwasher and plumbing connections)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver
• Torx T20 screwdriver (some models)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Towels (for water spillage)
• Shallow pan or bucket
• Work gloves
• Flashlight

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Turn off the circuit breaker to the dishwasher or unplug the unit (plug is typically under the sink or in the adjacent cabinet).
2. Shut Off Water Supply: Close the water supply valve under the sink that feeds the dishwasher.
3. Remove Lower Dish Rack: Pull out the lower dish rack completely to access the dishwasher interior.
4. Remove Spray Arm: Unscrew or pull off the lower spray arm (twist counterclockwise or pull straight up, depending on model). Set aside.
5. Remove Filter Assembly: Lift out the cylindrical filter assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher tub. This typically twists counterclockwise and lifts out. Set aside.
6. Remove Spray Arm Support: Remove the spray arm support/wash tower (the center hub). This may require unscrewing a cap or twisting counterclockwise. Set aside.
7. Bail Out Standing Water: Use towels or a wet/dry vacuum to remove any standing water from the bottom of the dishwasher tub.
8. Access the Pump Area: You'll need to access the drain pump from underneath the dishwasher. Open the lower front access panel (kick plate) by removing screws or releasing clips. Some models require removing the entire lower front panel.
9. Locate the Drain Pump: The drain pump is typically located on the left or right side of the dishwasher base, separate from the larger circulation pump in the center. It's a smaller pump with a single drain hose connection.
10. Disconnect Drain Hose: Locate the drain hose connected to the pump outlet. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze and slide the hose clamp away from the pump connection. Carefully pull the hose off the pump. Have towels ready—residual water will drain out. Place the hose end in a pan.
11. Disconnect Wiring: Locate the wire harness connector on the drain pump motor. Press the release tab and pull the connector straight off. Take a photo for reference.
12. Remove Pump from Sump: The drain pump is typically mounted to the sump housing with a twist-lock mechanism, clips, or screws. Rotate the pump counterclockwise (usually 1/4 turn) or remove mounting clips/screws to release it from the sump housing.
13. Remove Old Pump: Once released, carefully pull the old drain pump out of the sump housing. Tilt it to drain any remaining water into your pan.
14. Inspect for Debris: Check the old pump impeller cavity and the sump area for food debris, broken glass, bones, or other foreign objects. Remove everything you find. Check the pump inlet opening in the sump for blockages.
15. Clean Sump Area: Wipe out the sump cavity and pump mounting area with a damp cloth. Remove any food debris, mineral deposits, or buildup. A clean sump ensures proper pump operation and prevents repeat failures.
16. Install New Pump: Position the new drain pump into the sump housing opening. Align the pump tabs or mounting points with the sump housing. Rotate clockwise (usually 1/4 turn) or secure clips/screws to lock the pump in place. Ensure the pump is fully seated and secure.
17. Reconnect Wiring: Plug the wire harness connector back onto the drain pump motor. Ensure it clicks securely into place.
18. Reconnect Drain Hose: Slide the drain hose back onto the pump outlet connection. Push the hose fully onto the barbed fitting. Slide the hose clamp back into position over the connection. Ensure the clamp is tight and positioned at least 1/4" from the hose end.
19. Check All Connections: Verify the pump is securely mounted, wiring is connected, and the drain hose is tight. Tug gently on the hose to ensure it won't pull off.
20. Reinstall Spray Arm Support: Replace the spray arm support/wash tower, twisting clockwise or securing as required.
21. Reinstall Filter Assembly: Insert the filter assembly and twist clockwise to lock it in place.
22. Reinstall Spray Arm: Attach the lower spray arm, ensuring it spins freely without obstruction.
23. Reinstall Lower Rack: Slide the lower dish rack back into the dishwasher.
24. Restore Water and Power: Turn on the water supply valve under the sink. Restore power by turning on the circuit breaker or plugging in the unit.
25. Test for Leaks: Run a RINSE ONLY or short cycle and check underneath the dishwasher for any water leaks from the drain hose connection or pump area. Stop immediately if leaks are detected and recheck connections.
26. Full Test Cycle: Run a complete normal wash cycle with dirty dishes to verify proper drain pump operation and complete water evacuation.

4. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver
• Torx T20 screwdriver (some models)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Towels (for water spillage)
• Shallow pan or bucket
• Work gloves
• Flashlight

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Turn off the circuit breaker to the dishwasher or unplug the unit (plug is typically under the sink or in the adjacent cabinet).
2. Shut Off Water Supply: Close the water supply valve under the sink that feeds the dishwasher.
3. Remove Lower Dish Rack: Pull out the lower dish rack completely to access the dishwasher interior.
4. Remove Spray Arm: Unscrew or pull off the lower spray arm (twist counterclockwise or pull straight up, depending on model). Set aside.
5. Remove Filter Assembly: Lift out the cylindrical filter assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher tub. This typically twists counterclockwise and lifts out. Set aside.
6. Remove Spray Arm Support: Remove the spray arm support/wash tower (the center hub). This may require unscrewing a cap or twisting counterclockwise. Set aside.
7. Bail Out Standing Water: Use towels or a wet/dry vacuum to remove any standing water from the bottom of the dishwasher tub.
8. Access the Pump Area: You'll need to access the drain pump from underneath the dishwasher. Open the lower front access panel (kick plate) by removing screws or releasing clips. Some models require removing the entire lower front panel.
9. Locate the Drain Pump: The drain pump is typically located on the left or right side of the dishwasher base, separate from the larger circulation pump in the center. It's a smaller pump with a single drain hose connection.
10. Disconnect Drain Hose: Locate the drain hose connected to the pump outlet. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze and slide the hose clamp away from the pump connection. Carefully pull the hose off the pump. Have towels ready—residual water will drain out. Place the hose end in a pan.
11. Disconnect Wiring: Locate the wire harness connector on the drain pump motor. Press the release tab and pull the connector straight off. Take a photo for reference.
12. Remove Pump from Sump: The drain pump is typically mounted to the sump housing with a twist-lock mechanism, clips, or screws. Rotate the pump counterclockwise (usually 1/4 turn) or remove mounting clips/screws to release it from the sump housing.
13. Remove Old Pump: Once released, carefully pull the old drain pump out of the sump housing. Tilt it to drain any remaining water into your pan.
14. Inspect for Debris: Check the old pump impeller cavity and the sump area for food debris, broken glass, bones, or other foreign objects. Remove everything you find. Check the pump inlet opening in the sump for blockages.
15. Clean Sump Area: Wipe out the sump cavity and pump mounting area with a damp cloth. Remove any food debris, mineral deposits, or buildup. A clean sump ensures proper pump operation and prevents repeat failures.
16. Install New Pump: Position the new drain pump into the sump housing opening. Align the pump tabs or mounting points with the sump housing. Rotate clockwise (usually 1/4 turn) or secure clips/screws to lock the pump in place. Ensure the pump is fully seated and secure.
17. Reconnect Wiring: Plug the wire harness connector back onto the drain pump motor. Ensure it clicks securely into place.
18. Reconnect Drain Hose: Slide the drain hose back onto the pump outlet connection. Push the hose fully onto the barbed fitting. Slide the hose clamp back into position over the connection. Ensure the clamp is tight and positioned at least 1/4" from the hose end.
19. Check All Connections: Verify the pump is securely mounted, wiring is connected, and the drain hose is tight. Tug gently on the hose to ensure it won't pull off.
20. Reinstall Spray Arm Support: Replace the spray arm support/wash tower, twisting clockwise or securing as required.
21. Reinstall Filter Assembly: Insert the filter assembly and twist clockwise to lock it in place.
22. Reinstall Spray Arm: Attach the lower spray arm, ensuring it spins freely without obstruction.
23. Reinstall Lower Rack: Slide the lower dish rack back into the dishwasher.
24. Restore Water and Power: Turn on the water supply valve under the sink. Restore power by turning on the circuit breaker or plugging in the unit.
25. Test for Leaks: Run a RINSE ONLY or short cycle and check underneath the dishwasher for any water leaks from the drain hose connection or pump area. Stop immediately if leaks are detected and recheck connections.
26. Full Test Cycle: Run a complete normal wash cycle with dirty dishes to verify proper drain pump operation and complete water evacuation.

Distinguish between drain pump and circulation pump failures. Most dishwashers have TWO separate pumps: the circulation/wash pump (large, center-mounted) that sprays water during washing, and the drain pump (smaller, side-mounted) that evacuates water between cycles. If your dishwasher won't drain but washes/sprays normally, you need the drain pump (this part). If it drains fine but won't spray or wash, you need the circulation pump. Misdiagnosing which pump failed wastes time and money.

Check for blockages before replacing the pump. Remove the drain pump and inspect the impeller cavity for food debris, broken glass, toothpicks, bones, fruit pits, or other foreign objects. Also check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, and verify the garbage disposal knockout plug was removed if the dishwasher drains into a disposal. An estimated 25% of "pump failures" are actually just blockages. Test the old pump by spinning the impeller by hand—it should rotate freely without binding.

Test the pump electrically to confirm failure. Use a multimeter to check the drain pump motor windings for continuity. With the pump disconnected, test across the motor terminals—you should read approximately 10-30 ohms (varies by model). An infinite reading means the motor windings are open (burned out). A reading near zero indicates a short circuit. This confirms your diagnosis and prevents unnecessary parts replacement.

Inspect the drain hose and air gap. While you have access to the drain system, check the drain hose for cracks, holes, kinks, or deterioration. Also verify the dishwasher air gap (if installed) isn't clogged—a blocked air gap prevents proper drainage and can damage your new pump. Clean or replace any damaged components now to prevent repeat failures.

Hose clamp positioning is critical. When reconnecting the drain hose, ensure the clamp is positioned properly over the barbed fitting. The clamp should be at least 1/4" from the hose end and squeezed fully closed. A loose hose connection causes water leaks, poor drainage, and potential water damage to your kitchen floor and cabinets.

Check the check valve. Many dishwashers have a check valve in the drain line that prevents water from flowing back into the tub. If this valve is stuck closed or clogged, your new pump won't be able to drain water. Locate the check valve (usually in the drain hose or at the pump outlet) and verify it opens freely. Clean or replace if stuck.

Break-in and priming: After installation, the new drain pump may make unusual gurgling or cavitation sounds for the first 1-2 cycles as it primes and purges air from the drain line. This is normal. If loud grinding or continuous humming persists beyond 2 cycles, stop the dishwasher and recheck for obstructions or improper installation.

• Water remains standing in bottom of dishwasher after cycle
• Dishwasher won't drain (water stays in tub)
• Drain error codes displayed (check model-specific codes)
• Loud humming noise during drain cycle (motor running but not pumping)
• Grinding or rattling noise from drain pump area
• Drain pump motor won't start (no sound during drain)
• Dishwasher stops mid-cycle with water in tub
• Slow drainage (takes 5+ minutes to drain)
• Intermittent drainage problems
• Water backs up into dishwasher between cycles
• Burning smell during drain cycle
• Dishes remain wet and dirty due to incomplete drainage
• Visible water leaks from drain pump area
• Dishwasher runs through cycle but never drains
• Pump worked intermittently before failing completely