Induction Motor, Drive Motor, Washer Motor, 1/2 Horsepower Motor, Single-Phase Motor

WW01F01788, WW01F01787, PS11755607, AP6036677, 280187, 280188, WE12M29, WE12M30, 5KCP39GG

GE, General Electric, Hotpoint, RCA, Haier, Monogram, Café, Kenmore, Sears

GE: WWVH6260HWW, WWVH6260HWS, WWVH6260HWC, WWVH6360HWW, WWVH6360HWS, WWVH6360HWC, WWVH6460HWW, WWVH6460HWS, WWVH6460HWC, WWVH6560HWW

GE (continued): WWVH6560HWS, WWVH6560HWC, WWVH6660HWW, WWVH6660HWS, WWVH6660HWC, WWVH6760HWW, WWVH6760HWS, WWVH6760HWC, WWVH6860HWW, WWVH6860HWS

GE (continued): WWVH6860HWC, WWVH6960HWW, WWVH6960HWS, WWVH6960HWC, WWVH7360HWW, WWVH7360HWS, WWVH7360HWC, WWVH7460HWW, WWVH7460HWS, WWVH7460HWC

Hotpoint: HTW240ASKWS, HTW240ASKWW, HTW240ASKWC, HTW360ASKWS, HTW360ASKWW, HTW360ASKWC, HTW460ASKWS, HTW460ASKWW, HTW460ASKWC, HTW560ASKWS

Hotpoint (continued): HTW560ASKWW, HTW560ASKWC, HTW660ASKWS, HTW660ASKWW, HTW660ASKWC, HTW760ASKWS, HTW760ASKWW, HTW760ASKWC, HTW860ASKWS, HTW860ASKWW

Haier: HWM60-1269, HWM70-1269, HWM80-1269, HWM90-1269, HWM100-1269, HWM60-1368, HWM70-1368, HWM80-1368, HWM90-1368, HWM100-1368

Note: This is a partial list. This 1/2HP washer drive motor is used in many GE-manufactured top-load washing machines built between 2010-2024. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering. Motor specifications (HP, voltage, amperage) must match your original motor.

Professional: 90-120 minutes
DIY: 120-180 minutes
Difficulty Level: Medium-to-difficult repair (requires rear panel removal, motor access, and electrical connections)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver
• Adjustable wrench or socket set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work gloves
• Flashlight
• Towel (to protect washer surfaces)
• Camera or smartphone (for reference photos)

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet or turn off the circuit breaker. Never work on the washer with power connected.
2. Shut Off Water Supply: Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer. Turn the valves clockwise until fully closed.
3. Move Washer: Pull the washer away from the wall to provide access to the rear panel. You'll need at least 3-4 feet of clearance.
4. Remove Rear Panel: Remove screws securing the rear panel (typically 4-8 screws around the perimeter). Lift the rear panel off and set it aside.
5. Locate Drive Motor: Look at the bottom rear of the washer. You'll see the drive motor—a cylindrical component with the motor housing, shaft, and mounting brackets. The motor is typically connected to the transmission via a belt or direct coupling.
6. Take Reference Photos: Before disconnecting anything, take clear photos of the motor showing its position, wire connections, belt (if present), and mounting hardware.
7. Disconnect Wire Harness: Locate the wire harness connector(s) on the motor. Press the release tab and carefully pull the connector(s) straight off the motor terminals. Do not pull on the wires themselves, only on the connector housing. Keep track of which connector goes where using your photos.
8. Remove Drive Belt (if present): If your washer uses a belt drive system, you'll see a rubber belt connecting the motor pulley to the transmission pulley. Loosen the motor mounting bolts slightly to reduce belt tension, then slide the belt off the motor pulley. Keep the belt for reference or replacement.
9. Remove Motor Mounting Hardware: The motor is secured to the washer frame with mounting bolts or screws (typically 2-4 fasteners). Remove all mounting hardware using a wrench or socket. Keep these bolts—you'll need them for reinstallation.
10. Remove Old Motor: Once the wire harness and mounting hardware are disconnected, carefully lift the old motor away from the washer frame. Maneuver it out from under the washer tub.
11. Inspect Old Motor: Examine the old motor for visible damage: burned windings (visible through ventilation holes), corrosion, water damage, or seized bearings. Try to rotate the motor shaft by hand—it should turn freely. If the shaft is locked or very stiff, the bearings are seized and the motor is definitely failed.
12. Inspect Motor Mounting Area: Look at the washer frame where the motor was mounted. Check for:Damaged mounting holes or bracketsCorrosion or rustDebris or lint buildupCracks or damage to the frame Clean the mounting area and remove any debris.
13. Prepare New Motor: Remove the new motor from its packaging. Inspect it for any shipping damage. The motor housing should be intact with no cracks or damage.
14. Compare Old and New Motors: Verify the new motor matches the old motor:Same horsepower (1/2HP)Same voltage (120V)Same frequency (60Hz)Same amperage rating (4.6A)Same shaft size and configurationSame mounting bracket designSame connector type
15. Position New Motor: Carefully position the new motor on the washer frame, aligning it with the mounting holes. The motor shaft should align with the transmission coupling or pulley.
16. Install Motor Mounting Hardware: Insert the mounting bolts through the motor mounting brackets and into the frame mounting holes. Tighten the bolts firmly but do not overtighten—excessive force can crack the motor housing or damage the frame.
17. Verify Motor Alignment: Ensure the motor is properly aligned with the transmission coupling or pulley. The shaft should be centered and not binding or rubbing against adjacent components.
18. Reinstall Drive Belt (if present): If your washer uses a belt drive system, position the new or existing belt on the motor pulley and transmission pulley. Ensure the belt is properly seated in both pulleys and is not twisted or misaligned.
19. Adjust Belt Tension (if applicable): If your washer has adjustable motor mounting, loosen the motor mounting bolts slightly and position the motor to achieve proper belt tension. The belt should deflect approximately 1/2 inch when pressed midway between pulleys. Tighten the mounting bolts to lock the motor position.
20. Reconnect Wire Harness: Using your reference photos, plug the wire harness connector(s) back onto the motor terminals. Push the connector(s) straight on until you hear or feel a click. Verify the connection is fully seated and locked.
21. Verify All Connections: Ensure all wire connections are secure and properly seated. No wires should be loose, pinched, or damaged.
22. Reinstall Rear Panel: Position the rear panel back onto the washer and secure with all mounting screws.
23. Move Washer Back: Push the washer back into position, leaving a small gap from the wall for hose clearance.
24. Restore Water Supply: Turn on both hot and cold water supply valves by turning them counterclockwise until fully open.
25. Restore Power: Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet or turn on the circuit breaker.
26. Test Motor Operation: Run a NORMAL wash cycle without clothes. Listen and watch for:Motor starting smoothly when cycle beginsDrum/agitator beginning to rotateMotor running continuously during wash phaseMotor running smoothly without unusual noisesMotor advancing through all cycle phases
27. Verify Motor Rotation: During the wash cycle, verify the drum or agitator rotates smoothly and continuously. The motor should run quietly without grinding, squealing, or humming without rotating.
28. Check Motor Temperature: After the cycle runs for 5-10 minutes, carefully feel the motor housing (don't touch if very hot). The motor should be warm but not excessively hot. Excessive heat indicates a problem.
29. Monitor for Unusual Noises: Listen for any unusual sounds from the motor: grinding, squealing, buzzing, or clicking. The motor should run quietly with only a faint hum.
30. Test All Cycle Phases: Allow the washer to complete the entire wash cycle, including agitation, drain, spin, and rinse phases. The motor should operate smoothly through all phases.
31. Full Load Test: Run a complete wash cycle with a normal load of laundry to verify the motor operates properly under normal conditions.
32. Monitor for 24 Hours: Run 2-3 additional cycles over the next 24 hours and monitor for any issues: unusual noises, motor stalling, or operational problems.

Test the motor before replacing—many "motor failures" are actually transmission or coupling problems. Before ordering a new motor, verify it's actually faulty. With power disconnected, try to rotate the motor shaft by hand. The shaft should turn freely with moderate pressure. If the shaft is locked, seized, or very stiff, the motor bearings are failed and the motor needs replacement. However, if the shaft turns freely but the drum doesn't rotate, the problem may be the transmission, drive belt, or coupling, not the motor. An estimated 35% of "motor failures" are actually transmission or belt problems. Test the motor independently before assuming it's the culprit.

Check the drive belt for wear and damage. If your washer uses a belt drive system, inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, glazing, or separation. A worn or damaged belt can cause the motor to work harder and fail prematurely. While replacing the motor, consider replacing the belt as well ($20-40). A new belt ensures smooth power transmission and prevents the new motor from being stressed by a worn belt. Many professional technicians replace both the motor and belt together as a complete drive system upgrade.

Verify the transmission is working before installing the new motor. If the motor is replaced but the transmission is failing, the new motor will be stressed and fail prematurely. Before ordering a new motor, verify the transmission is functioning properly. If the motor spins freely but the drum doesn't rotate, the transmission coupling or gears may be damaged. Have a professional technician inspect the transmission before replacing the motor.

Check for water damage inside the motor. If water has entered the motor housing, the motor windings are damaged and the motor must be replaced. Water damage causes electrical shorts, corrosion, and bearing failure. Inspect the old motor for evidence of water damage: rust, corrosion, water stains, or moisture inside the housing. If water damage is evident, identify and fix the source of the water leak before installing the new motor—otherwise the new motor will be damaged immediately.

Motor specifications must match exactly. The washer drive motor must have the exact same horsepower (HP), voltage, frequency (Hz), and amperage rating as the original motor. Installing a motor with different specifications can cause electrical problems, inadequate power delivery, or equipment damage. Always verify motor specifications before ordering. The WW01F01789 is specifically rated at 1/2HP, 120V, 60Hz, 4.6A—these specifications must match your original motor exactly.

Verify proper motor alignment and coupling. The motor shaft must be properly aligned with the transmission coupling or pulley. Misalignment causes binding, excessive wear, and premature motor failure. During installation, ensure the motor is positioned so the shaft centers perfectly with the coupling. If the motor is misaligned, the new motor will be stressed and fail quickly. Take time to achieve proper alignment during installation.

Motor bearings can fail from age and use. Washer drive motors typically last 10-15 years with normal use (3-5 wash cycles per week). Heavy use (daily washing) reduces motor lifespan to 5-8 years. If your motor failed after only 3-5 years, check for usage patterns, water exposure, or mechanical jamming that may have accelerated bearing failure. Keeping the washer clean and free of debris extends motor life significantly.

• Washer won't agitate (drum doesn't move during wash)
• Drum won't rotate during spin cycle
• Washer motor makes grinding noise
• Washer motor makes squealing noise
• Motor hums but drum doesn't rotate
• Washer won't pump water (no water drainage)
• Motor runs very slowly
• Motor stalls or stops mid-cycle
• Washer cycles but clothes remain soaking wet (no spin)
• Motor makes clicking or popping noises
• Motor won't start (no rotation at all)
• Washer stuck in one cycle phase
• Motor runs intermittently
• Burning smell from motor area
• Motor overheating (very hot to touch)