Gas Ignitor, Glow Bar Ignitor, Hot Surface Ignitor, Norton 271P Ignitor, Round Style Ignitor

WW02F00740, WE4M449, PS2364242, AP4980845, EAP2364242, 1810673, WE04X20420

GE, General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore

GE Gas Dryers DBXR453EA0WW, DBXR453EA1WW, DBXR453EA2WW, DBXR453EB0WW, DBXR453EB1WW, DBXR453EB2WW, DBXR453EG0WW, DBXR453EG1WW, DBXR453EG2WW, DBXR463ED0WW, DBXR463ED1WW, DBXR463ED2WW, DBXR463EG0WW, DBXR463EG1WW, DBXR463EG2WW, DCVH515EF0WW, DCVH515EF1WW, DCVH515EF2WW, DCVH515EG0WW, DCVH515EG1WW, DCVH515EG2WW, DCVH515EJ0WW, DCVH515EJ1WW, DCVH515EJ2WW, DCVH640EF0WW, DCVH640EF1WW, DCVH640EF2WW, DCVH640EG0WW, DCVH640EG1WW, DCVH640EG2WW, DCVH640EJ0WW, DCVH640EJ1WW, DCVH640EJ2WW, DCVH680EF0WW, DCVH680EF1WW, DCVH680EF2WW, DCVH680EG0WW, DCVH680EG1WW, DCVH680EG2WW, DCVH680EJ0WW, DCVH680EJ1WW, DCVH680EJ2WW

Hotpoint Gas Dryers HTDX100EM0WW, HTDX100EM1WW, HTDX100EM2WW, HTDX100EM3WW, HTDX100EM4WW, HTDX100EM5WW, HTDX100EM6WW, HTDX100EM7WW, HTDX100EM8WW, HTDX100EM9WW, HTDX100GM0WW, HTDX100GM1WW, HTDX100GM2WW, HTDX100GM3WW, HTDX100GM4WW, HTDX100GM5WW, HTDX100GM6WW, HTDX100GM7WW, HTDX100GM8WW, HTDX100GM9WW

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working with natural gas or propane connections and electrical components. Always turn off the gas supply at the main shut-off valve before beginning work to prevent gas leaks and fire hazards. Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet to prevent electrical shock. Natural gas and propane are highly flammable and explosive—if you smell gas at any time, immediately evacuate the area, do not use any electrical switches or devices, and call your gas company or fire department from a safe location. If uncomfortable with this repair or unfamiliar with gas appliance work, hire a qualified appliance technician or licensed gas fitter. IMPORTANT: Before replacing the gas ignitor, verify the ignitor is actually faulty and the thermal fuse is not blown—a blown thermal fuse prevents power to the ignitor.TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, nut driver or socket set (typically 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch), needle-nose pliers, flashlight, work gloves, multimeter (for testing).IMPORTANT: This repair requires accessing the dryer burner assembly, which may require removing the front panel or lower access panel depending on dryer model.

1. Turn off the gas supply at the main gas shut-off valve or at the dryer gas supply valve. CRITICAL: Never work on gas connections without turning off the gas supply.
2. Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet to ensure complete power disconnection. CRITICAL: Never work on the dryer while it's plugged in.
3. Pull the dryer away from the wall to access the rear panel and gas connection. Caution: Dryers are heavy—get assistance if needed.
4. Take multiple photos of the burner assembly, gas ignitor location, wire connections, and surrounding components before disassembly. CRITICAL: Proper reassembly requires exact component positioning.
5. Locate the burner assembly access panel (typically located at the front lower section or rear lower section of the dryer, depending on model).
6. Remove the screws securing the burner assembly access panel using a Phillips screwdriver or nut driver (typically 2-4 screws). Caution: Support the panel while removing the last screw.
7. Carefully remove the access panel and set it aside. Important: The burner assembly and gas ignitor are now visible.
8. Locate the gas ignitor (glowing element mounted near the burner tube, typically secured with 1-2 screws to a metal bracket).
9. Take detailed close-up photos of: the ignitor wire connector and wire colors, the ignitor mounting screw locations, the ignitor position relative to the burner tube, and any other components nearby.
10. Disconnect the ignitor wire connector by pulling the spade terminals straight off or pressing the release tab and pulling the connector apart. Caution: Do not pull on the wires—grasp the connector and pull straight.
11. Remove the mounting screw(s) securing the gas ignitor to the burner assembly using a Phillips screwdriver or nut driver (typically 1-2 screws). Caution: Support the ignitor while removing the last screw—the ceramic element is fragile.
12. Carefully remove the old gas ignitor from the burner assembly. CAUTION: The ignitor element is extremely fragile—handle with care to avoid breaking it.
13. Inspect the old gas ignitor for damage indicators: ignitor doesn't glow (broken element or no power, most common), ignitor glows but gas doesn't ignite (weak ignitor not drawing sufficient current), visible cracks or breaks in element (thermal stress damage), element appears discolored or contaminated (overheating or lint buildup), or corroded wire terminals (poor electrical contact). This confirms the diagnosis.
14. If desired, test the old ignitor with a multimeter set to ohms (resistance). A good ignitor should measure approximately 40-50 ohms when cold. If the reading is infinite (open circuit), the ignitor is broken. Important: This test is optional but confirms the diagnosis.
15. Inspect the burner assembly for lint buildup or debris. Clean if needed using a soft brush or compressed air. Important: Lint buildup can cause ignitor failure and poor combustion.
16. Unpack the new WW02F00740 gas ignitor from its packaging. CAUTION: The ignitor element is extremely fragile—handle with extreme care and avoid touching the ceramic element.
17. Verify the new ignitor specifications match the old ignitor: Norton 271P, round style, 3.2-3.6 amps, 40-50 ohms resistance.
18. Compare the new ignitor to the old one to verify overall dimensions, mounting hole positions, wire lead length, and connector type match.
19. Inspect the new ignitor for any shipping damage before installation. The ceramic element should be intact with no cracks, the mounting bracket should be undamaged, and the wire leads should be clean and undamaged.
20. Position the new gas ignitor on the burner assembly, aligning the mounting hole(s) with the bracket holes. CRITICAL: The ignitor element must be positioned correctly relative to the burner tube—typically 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the burner tube opening for proper ignition.
21. Verify the ignitor element is positioned correctly by checking against your detailed photos of the old ignitor. The element should face the burner tube opening where gas flows out.
22. Install the mounting screw(s) to secure the ignitor. Important: Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten—over-tightening can crack the ceramic element or mounting bracket.
23. Verify the ignitor is securely mounted with no excessive play or movement. Important: The ignitor should be stable but not stressed.
24. Connect the ignitor wire connector by pushing the spade terminals onto the ignitor terminals or pushing the connector together until it clicks. CRITICAL: Incorrect connections cause ignitor failure or control board damage.
25. Verify the wire connection is secure by gently tugging on the connector—it should not come apart.
26. Verify the ignitor element is not touching any metal surfaces except the mounting bracket. CRITICAL: If the element touches metal surfaces, it will short circuit and fail immediately.
27. Reinstall the burner assembly access panel by aligning it with the mounting holes and installing the mounting screws.
28. Tighten the access panel screws firmly using a Phillips screwdriver. Caution: Do not over-tighten—this can strip the threads.
29. Turn on the gas supply at the main gas shut-off valve or at the dryer gas supply valve.
30. Check for gas leaks at all gas connections using soapy water or a gas leak detector. CRITICAL: If bubbles form or the detector alarms, there's a gas leak—turn off the gas supply immediately and tighten the connections.
31. Restore electrical power by plugging in the dryer.
32. Push the dryer back into position against the wall.
33. Run a test cycle to verify proper gas ignitor operation:Load the dryer with a few damp towelsSelect a timed dry cycle (30 minutes)Start the dryerObserve the ignitor through the access panel or listen for the burner ignitionThe ignitor should glow orange-white hot within 30-60 secondsThe gas should ignite within 60-90 seconds after the ignitor glowsVerify the burner flame is steady and blue (indicates proper combustion)Allow the cycle to run for 5-10 minutesVerify the dryer is producing heatStop the dryer
34. Verify the ignitor glows properly during the test cycle. The ignitor should glow orange-white hot—if it glows dimly or not at all, there may be a problem with the installation or electrical connection.
35. Verify the gas ignites properly within 60-90 seconds after the ignitor glows. You should hear a "whoosh" sound when the gas ignites.
36. Verify the burner flame is steady and blue by observing through the access panel. A yellow or orange flame indicates improper combustion and should be corrected by a qualified technician.
37. Verify the dryer is producing heat by feeling the exhaust air—it should be warm within 5-10 minutes.
38. If the ignitor glows properly, gas ignites, and the dryer produces heat, the repair is complete.

Safety Notes: Always turn off the gas supply before working on gas connections. Unplug the dryer before working on electrical components. Handle the ignitor element with extreme care—the ceramic element is very fragile. Do not touch the ceramic element with bare hands—oils can cause hot spots and premature failure. Verify the ignitor element is not touching any metal surfaces except the mounting bracket. Ensure all gas connections are tight and check for leaks using soapy water or a gas leak detector. If you smell gas at any time, immediately evacuate the area and call your gas company. Verify the ignitor glows properly and gas ignites within 60-90 seconds. Monitor the first test cycle for proper heat production. If uncomfortable working with gas connections or electrical components, hire a professional appliance technician or licensed gas fitter. This repair typically takes 30-45 minutes depending on dryer model and access.

1. The Norton 271P ignitor must draw 3.2-3.6 amps at 120V AC to open the gas valve safety coil—if the ignitor draws less current, the gas valve won't open and gas won't ignite. The gas valve safety coil senses the current draw from the ignitor. When the ignitor reaches sufficient temperature and draws 3.2-3.6 amps, the safety coil opens the gas valve, allowing gas to flow to the burner. If the ignitor is weak and draws less than 3.2 amps, the safety coil doesn't open, preventing gas flow. A weak ignitor can glow but not get hot enough to draw sufficient current. If the ignitor glows but gas doesn't ignite, the ignitor may be weak and should be replaced. Testing current draw requires a multimeter and electrical knowledge—if you're not comfortable testing, replace the ignitor.
2. The ignitor element must be positioned correctly relative to the burner tube—typically 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the burner opening for proper ignition. The gas ignitor must be positioned so the glowing element is directly in the path of the gas flame when it ignites. If the ignitor is too far from the burner opening, the gas may not ignite properly. If the ignitor is too close or touching the burner, it may overheat or be damaged by the flame. When installing the new ignitor, verify the positioning by checking against your detailed photos of the old ignitor. The element should be close to the burner opening but not touching any metal surfaces except the mounting bracket.
3. The ignitor element is extremely fragile and must be handled with extreme care—touching the ceramic element with bare hands or dropping it can cause cracks that lead to premature failure. The Norton 271P ignitor element is made of silicon carbide ceramic, which is very brittle and fragile. Dropping the ignitor, bumping it against metal surfaces, or applying excessive force during installation can crack the element, causing it to fail immediately or prematurely. When handling the new ignitor, support it carefully and avoid touching the ceramic element with bare hands—skin oils can cause hot spots and premature failure. Install the ignitor gently and do not force it into position. If the element cracks during installation, the ignitor must be replaced.
4. The ignitor element must not touch any metal surfaces except the mounting bracket—if the element touches metal, it will short circuit and fail immediately. The ignitor element is electrically conductive and must be isolated from other metal surfaces. If the element touches the burner tube, burner assembly, or any other metal surface, electrical current will short circuit through the metal instead of heating the element. This causes the ignitor to fail immediately. When installing the new ignitor, verify the element is not touching any metal surfaces except the mounting bracket. Check the clearance around the element to ensure proper isolation.
5. The ignitor wire connector must be fully seated for proper electrical connection—a loose or corroded connector causes weak ignitor performance or complete failure. The ignitor is powered by electrical signals from the dryer control board through the wire connector. If the connector is loose, corroded, or not fully seated, electrical contact is poor, causing weak ignitor performance or complete failure. When connecting the ignitor wires, push the spade terminals firmly onto the ignitor terminals or push the connector together until it clicks. Verify the connection is secure by gently tugging on the connector—it should not come apart. If the connector is corroded, clean it thoroughly with a wire brush before connecting.
6. The burner assembly should be cleaned of lint and debris before installing the new ignitor—lint buildup can cause ignitor failure and poor combustion. Lint and debris accumulate in the burner assembly over time, especially if the dryer vent is clogged. This buildup can insulate the ignitor, preventing it from reaching proper temperature. Lint can also catch fire if it contacts the hot ignitor or burner flame. Before installing the new ignitor, clean the burner assembly thoroughly using a soft brush or compressed air. Remove all lint and debris. A clean burner assembly ensures proper ignitor operation and safe dryer performance.
7. The gas supply must be turned off before working on the gas ignitor—working with the gas supply on can cause gas leaks and fire hazards. The gas ignitor is part of the gas supply system. If you work on the ignitor without turning off the gas supply, gas can leak when you disconnect components, creating a fire hazard. Always turn off the gas supply at the main shut-off valve or at the dryer gas supply valve before beginning work. Verify the gas supply is off by attempting to light a nearby burner—if no gas flows, the supply is off. Never work on gas connections with the gas supply on.
8. After installing the new ignitor, check all gas connections for leaks using soapy water or a gas leak detector—if bubbles form or the detector alarms, there's a gas leak. Gas leaks are extremely dangerous and can cause explosions or fires. After installing the new ignitor and turning on the gas supply, check all gas connections for leaks. Apply soapy water to all connections—if bubbles form, there's a leak. Alternatively, use a gas leak detector (available at hardware stores). If a leak is detected, turn off the gas supply immediately and tighten the connections. If tightening doesn't stop the leak, the connection may be damaged and should be repaired by a qualified gas fitter.
9. The ignitor should glow orange-white hot within 30-60 seconds when power is applied—if the ignitor doesn't glow or glows dimly, it may be faulty or the electrical connection may be poor. When the dryer starts a drying cycle, the ignitor should glow orange-white hot within 30-60 seconds. If the ignitor doesn't glow, it may be broken or there may be no power to the ignitor. If the ignitor glows dimly, it may be weak or the electrical connection may be poor. A properly functioning ignitor should glow brightly and consistently. If the ignitor doesn't glow properly, verify the electrical connection is secure and the thermal fuse is not blown. If the connection is secure but the ignitor still doesn't glow, the ignitor may be faulty and should be replaced.
10. The gas should ignite within 60-90 seconds after the ignitor glows—if gas doesn't ignite, the ignitor may be too weak or the gas valve may be faulty. After the ignitor glows hot, the gas valve should open and gas should flow to the burner, igniting with a "whoosh" sound. If gas doesn't ignite within 60-90 seconds, the ignitor may be too weak to draw sufficient current to open the gas valve, or the gas valve may be faulty. If the ignitor glows but gas doesn't ignite, the ignitor should be tested for current draw. If current draw is less than 3.2 amps, the ignitor is weak and should be replaced. If current draw is adequate but gas still doesn't ignite, the gas valve may be faulty.
11. The ignitor has a typical lifespan of 5-10 years with average use, but can be shortened by lint buildup, improper positioning, or electrical stress. Factors that shorten ignitor lifespan include: lint buildup insulating the element (thermal stress), improper positioning causing overheating or underheating (mechanical stress), electrical surges or voltage fluctuations (electrical stress), contamination from debris or corrosion (thermal stress), or manufacturing defects. To extend ignitor lifespan, keep the burner assembly clean and free of lint, maintain proper dryer vent clearance to prevent lint accumulation, verify the ignitor is positioned correctly, and ensure the electrical connection is secure. Regular maintenance and prompt replacement of faulty ignitors ensure reliable dryer operation and prevent fire hazards.
12. Never attempt to repair a failed gas ignitor by cleaning, soaking, or disassembling the ignitor—these repairs are unsafe and will fail immediately. A failed gas ignitor cannot be safely repaired. Attempting to clean the ceramic element or soak it in solutions may damage the element or create safety hazards. Disassembling the ignitor can break the element or damage internal components. Never attempt any repair of a failed ignitor. Always replace the entire ignitor with a new one. Using a repaired ignitor is a serious fire hazard and will result in heating failure and potential safety risks.