Part Number: 400AKRP10

Type: Complete toilet tank repair kit

Function: This all-in-one kit contains everything needed to rebuild the internal components of a toilet tank, addressing the most common toilet problems including running water, weak flushes, leaks, and noise.

Kit Components:

400A Fill Valve:

• Industry-leading anti-siphon fill valve
• Eliminates noisy toilet operation
• Adjustable height: fits most toilet tanks
• Code-approved anti-siphon design (meets plumbing codes)
• Refill tube included
• Quiet, reliable fill operation

507A Flush Valve:

• 2" flush valve assembly
• Universal design fits most toilets
• Includes overflow tube
• Durable construction for long life

502 Flapper:

• Water-saving flapper with adjustable dial
• Customize flush volume for optimal water usage
• Fits 2" flush valves
• Long-lasting rubber construction
• Reduces water waste from running toilets

Chrome Tank Lever:

• Universal fit chrome flush lever/handle
• Front-mount design (fits most toilets)
• Durable chrome finish

Brass Mounting Hardware:

• Solid brass tank-to-bowl bolts
• Corrosion-resistant for long life
• Includes rubber washers and nuts
• Secure, leak-free tank mounting

Universal Gasket:

• Tank-to-bowl gasket (spud gasket)
• Fits most close-coupled toilet designs
• Creates watertight seal between tank and bowl

Specifications:

Toilet Compatibility:

• 1.6 GPF (gallons per flush) toilets
• 3.5 GPF toilets
• Most close-coupled (two-piece) toilet designs
• 2" flush valve toilets

Brand Compatibility:

• American Standard
• Kohler
• Eljer
• TOTO
• Gerber
• Mansfield
• Briggs
• Most other major toilet brands

Certifications:

• Anti-siphon design (code-approved)
• Trusted by toilet manufacturers worldwide

Tools Needed:

• Adjustable wrench or pliers
• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
• Sponge and bucket
• Towels
• Measuring tape (optional)

Installation Steps:

Preparation:

1. Turn off water supply – Locate the shut-off valve behind the toilet (usually on the wall or floor). Turn clockwise to close.
2. Flush the toilet – Hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the tank.
3. Remove remaining water – Use a sponge to soak up water remaining in the tank bottom. Wring into bucket.
4. Disconnect water supply line – Unscrew the supply line from the bottom of the fill valve (have towels ready for drips).

Remove the Tank (if replacing flush valve or gasket):
5. Remove tank bolts – Unscrew the nuts from the tank bolts underneath the tank. Hold the bolt head inside the tank with a screwdriver while turning the nut.
6. Lift tank off bowl – Carefully lift the tank straight up and off the bowl. Set on towels.
7. Remove old flush valve – Unscrew the large locknut underneath the tank that holds the flush valve. Remove the old flush valve and gasket.Install New Flush Valve:
8. Insert new 507A flush valve – Place the new flush valve into the tank opening from inside. The overflow tube should be about 1" below the tank lever hole.
9. Secure with locknut – Thread the locknut onto the flush valve from underneath and tighten firmly (hand-tight plus 1/2 turn with pliers).
10. Install new tank gasket – Place the universal gasket over the flush valve tailpiece on the outside bottom of the tank.Reinstall Tank:
11. Position tank on bowl – Carefully lower the tank onto the bowl, aligning the bolt holes and centering the gasket over the bowl inlet.
12. Install brass tank bolts – Insert bolts through tank holes with rubber washers inside the tank. Add rubber washers and nuts underneath. Tighten evenly, alternating between bolts. Don't overtighten — just snug enough to compress the gasket evenly.Install New Fill Valve:
13. Adjust fill valve height – The 400A fill valve is adjustable. Set it so the top is at least 1" above the overflow tube.
14. Insert fill valve – Place the fill valve into the tank opening (left side of tank).
15. Secure with locknut – Thread the locknut onto the fill valve shank from underneath and tighten firmly.
16. Connect refill tube – Attach the refill tube to the fill valve and clip the other end to the overflow tube (should not extend below water level).Install New Flapper:
17. Attach flapper to flush valve – Hook the flapper ears onto the pegs on the flush valve.
18. Adjust flapper dial – Set the dial on the flapper to adjust flush volume (higher number = more water per flush).
19. Connect flapper chain to lever – Attach the chain to the tank lever arm with slight slack (about 1/2" play).Install New Tank Lever:
20. Remove old lever – Unscrew the mounting nut inside the tank (reverse thread — turn clockwise to loosen).
21. Install new chrome lever – Insert the new lever through the hole and secure with the mounting nut (turn counterclockwise to tighten).
22. Adjust chain length – Ensure the chain has slight slack when the handle is at rest.Final Steps:
23. Reconnect water supply – Attach the supply line to the fill valve and tighten.
24. Turn on water – Open the shut-off valve slowly and let the tank fill.
25. Check for leaks – Inspect all connections: supply line, fill valve, tank bolts, and tank-to-bowl gasket. Tighten if needed.
26. Adjust water level – The water level should be about 1" below the top of the overflow tube. Adjust the fill valve if needed.
27. Test flush – Flush several times to verify proper operation. Check for leaks during and after flushing.

Most "running toilet" problems are caused by just two parts: the flapper or the fill valve. Before doing a complete rebuild, you can diagnose which part is failing: Put a few drops of food coloring in the tank (don't flush). Wait 15–30 minutes. If colored water appears in the bowl, the flapper isn't sealing — it's leaking water into the bowl, which causes the fill valve to periodically turn on (phantom flush). If the water runs constantly and you can see water flowing into the overflow tube, the fill valve isn't shutting off properly. That said, if your toilet is more than 7–10 years old, replacing all the tank components at once (like this kit allows) is often the smartest approach — the parts are inexpensive, and you'll have a completely refreshed toilet that should work trouble-free for years. When installing the tank bolts, tighten them evenly and gradually, alternating between bolts — overtightening or uneven tightening can crack the porcelain tank. The adjustable flapper dial is a great feature: if your toilet has a weak flush, try increasing the setting; if you want to save water, decrease it until you find the minimum setting that still clears the bowl reliably.