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Range Burner Not Heating or Stuck on High? Surface Element Switch W10857622 – Fix Infinite Switch Fast
If a burner on your Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, or Jenn-Air electric range won’t heat, is stuck on high, or heats erratically, the infinite surface element switch is the most likely cause. In Whirlpool-built electric ranges, the infinite switch controls burner power by cycling the element on and off through a bimetallic strip — when the contacts pit from arcing, the strip fails, or terminals corrode, the burner stops responding correctly. ⚡ Common failure point in Whirlpool-built ranges and cooktops after years of high-current cycling. Part W10857622 is the OEM dual infinite switch that directly supersedes W10437092 and restores full burner control immediately.
❓ Is This the Right Part?
This is the correct fix if ALL of the following are true:
- ✔ Range powers on and other burners work normally
- ✔ The surface element has been tested and is not open or broken
- ✔ The element receptacle and wiring terminals are intact
- ✔ The control knob engages the switch shaft correctly
- ✔ ONLY problem is one or both burners on this switch not heating, stuck on high, or heating erratically
Not sure? Send us your model number — we'll confirm before you order.
🔧 Common Symptoms
- Surface burner not heating at all — element stays cold at any setting
- Burner stuck on high and won’t reduce heat or turn off
- Burner heating erratically — cycling too fast or inconsistently
- Burner only works at certain knob positions
- Burning smell from the control panel area
- One of two burners controlled by the switch not responding
- Control knob turns freely but burner doesn’t change heat level
✔ If these symptoms match, this is the most likely failed component in the burner control circuit.
✔ In most cases, replacing the infinite switch restores full burner control immediately.
📦 Part Details
- Part Number: W10857622
- Type: Dual Infinite Rotary Surface Element Switch — controls two burners independently, 15A / 240V
- Replaces: OEM direct-fit infinite switch — supersedes W10437092 (no modification required)
- Brands: Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air
- Options: OEM New, OEM Used (tested pull), and XPart premium aftermarket — select variant above. XPart parts are not affiliated with or endorsed by Whirlpool.
⚠️ Recommended While Repairing:
Before replacing the switch, test the surface element with a multimeter — a broken element coil (reads OL/open) is just as common as a failed switch and costs less to replace. If the element tests good (10–50 ohms), the switch is confirmed as the cause.
Before replacing the switch, test the surface element with a multimeter — a broken element coil (reads OL/open) is just as common as a failed switch and costs less to replace. If the element tests good (10–50 ohms), the switch is confirmed as the cause.
⚙️ Installation
Skill Level: MODERATE — 30 to 45 minutes. Disconnect power at the circuit breaker before beginning — this switch operates at 240V. Pull the control knob straight off the shaft, then remove the back or control panel screws to access the switch. Photograph all wiring terminal connections before disconnecting any wires. Remove the mounting screws, swap the switch, reconnect terminals matching your photo, and restore power. Test at all heat settings before reassembling panels — do not skip this step.
✓ Compatible Models
Confirmed compatible with Whirlpool WFE, WEE, WCE series, Maytag MER, MES, MEC series, KitchenAid KFEG, KSEG, KCES, KCED series, and Jenn-Air JES, JED, JEC series electric ranges and cooktops. Contact us to verify your model number before ordering.
💡 Pro Tip — Test the Element Before You Order:
A broken element coil is just as common as a failed switch and costs significantly less to replace. Set a multimeter to resistance mode and test across the element terminals — a good element reads 10–50 ohms; an open circuit (OL) means the element is broken, not the switch. This 5-minute test prevents ordering the wrong part and saves a return trip.
A broken element coil is just as common as a failed switch and costs significantly less to replace. Set a multimeter to resistance mode and test across the element terminals — a good element reads 10–50 ohms; an open circuit (OL) means the element is broken, not the switch. This 5-minute test prevents ordering the wrong part and saves a return trip.
✅Compatibility & Cross Reference
Not sure about your model number? Call 1-877-899-7278 and we’ll help you confirm. All brand names are the property of their respective owners and are used for compatibility reference only.
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