Main Control Board, Electronic Control Module, Refrigerator Control Board, Main PCB Assembly, Power Management Board

WPW10120827, W10120827, PS11748613, AP6022394, AP5806783, WPW10120827A

Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air

Whirlpool Refrigerators WRF535SMBM, WRF535SMHM, WRF535SMHV, WRF535SWHM, WRF535SWHV, WRF536SNHM, WRF536SNHV, WRF560SMHM, WRF560SMHV, WRF560SWHM, WRF560SWHV, WRF561SMHM, WRF561SMHV, WRF561SWHM, WRF561SWHV, WRF562SMHM, WRF562SMHV, WRF562SWHM, WRF562SWHV, WRF563SMHM, WRF563SMHV, WRF563SWHM, WRF563SWHV

Maytag Refrigerators MFI2568AEM, MFI2568AES, MFI2568AEW, MFI2669AEM, MFI2669AES, MFI2669AEW, MFI2769AEM, MFI2769AES, MFI2769AEW

KitchenAid Refrigerators KFIS20XVMS, KFIS20XVSS, KFIS25XVMS, KFIS25XVSS, KFIS27XVMS, KFIS27XVSS

Jenn-Air Refrigerators JFC2290REP, JFC2290RES, JFC2290REW, JFC2390REP, JFC2390RES, JFC2390REW

Professional Repair Time: 45-60 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 60-90 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Medium-High (4/5) — Requires unplugging refrigerator, locating control board, labeling and disconnecting multiple connectors, removing mounting screws, removing old board, handling control board carefully to avoid static discharge, installing new board, reconnecting all connectors to correct terminals, verifying all connections are secure, testing all refrigerator functions

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working with electrical components and requires careful handling of the control board to avoid static discharge damage. Always unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet or disconnect power at the circuit breaker before beginning work to prevent electrical shock. Never work on the refrigerator while it's powered. Ground yourself before handling the control board to prevent static discharge damage to sensitive electronic components. If uncomfortable with this repair or unfamiliar with electronic component handling, hire a qualified appliance technician. IMPORTANT: Control board replacement requires careful attention to connector identification and proper reconnection—incorrect connections can damage the new board or cause refrigerator malfunction.TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, nut driver or socket set (typically 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch), needle-nose pliers, flashlight, work gloves, anti-static wrist strap (recommended), masking tape and marker (for labeling connectors), camera or smartphone (for taking photos).IMPORTANT: This repair requires accessing the refrigerator control board, which is typically located inside the refrigerator cabinet or behind the refrigerator back panel depending on Whirlpool refrigerator model.

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet or disconnect power at the circuit breaker to ensure complete power disconnection. CRITICAL: Never work on the refrigerator while it's powered—electrical shock can result.
2. Verify power is disconnected by attempting to turn on the refrigerator display or lights—they should not respond. CRITICAL: This confirms the power is off.
3. Ground yourself by wearing an anti-static wrist strap connected to a ground source (metal part of the refrigerator frame). CRITICAL: Static discharge can damage sensitive electronic components on the control board.
4. Take multiple photos of the refrigerator configuration, control board location, and connector routing before disassembly. CRITICAL: Proper reassembly requires exact component positioning and connector identification.
5. Locate the main control board (typically inside the refrigerator cabinet behind the upper back panel or behind the refrigerator back panel depending on model).
6. Remove any interior panels or covers to access the control board:For interior-mounted boards: Remove the upper back panel inside the refrigerator (typically held by 2-4 screws)For rear-mounted boards: Remove the rear access panel behind the refrigerator (typically held by 4-6 screws)
7. Take detailed close-up photos of: all connector locations and types, connector labels or colors, connector routing, mounting screw locations, and any other components nearby. CRITICAL: Proper reconnection requires exact connector identification.
8. Label each connector before disconnecting by applying masking tape to each connector and marking it with a description (Compressor, Evap Fan, Condenser Fan, Defrost Heater, Temperature Sensor, Dispenser, Ice Maker, etc.). CRITICAL: Incorrect connector reconnection causes control board malfunction or refrigerator failure.
9. Disconnect all connectors from the old control board by gently pulling each connector straight off. Caution: Do not pull on the wires—grasp the connector body and pull straight. Some connectors may have release tabs that must be pressed before disconnecting.
10. Locate the mounting screw(s) securing the control board to the mounting bracket or refrigerator frame (typically 2-4 screws).
11. Remove the mounting screw(s) using a Phillips screwdriver or nut driver. Caution: Support the control board while removing the screws to prevent it from falling.
12. Carefully remove the old control board from the refrigerator. Important: Handle the board carefully to avoid dropping or damaging it.
13. Inspect the old control board for damage indicators: control board has visible burnt or discolored components (component failure), control board has cracked or damaged PCB (physical damage), connectors are burnt or corroded (arcing or moisture damage), control board has burnt smell (component overheating or failure), or control board has visible corrosion or moisture damage (humidity or water exposure). This confirms the diagnosis.
14. Inspect the mounting bracket and connector locations for damage or corrosion. Clean if needed using a dry cloth. Important: Remove any debris or corrosion that may have accumulated.
15. Inspect all connectors on the refrigerator wiring harness for damage, corrosion, or bent pins. If connectors are damaged, they must be repaired or replaced before installing the new control board.
16. Unpack the new WPW10120827 control board from its packaging. CAUTION: The control board contains sensitive electronic components—handle carefully and avoid static discharge.
17. Verify the new control board specifications match the old control board: same part number or compatible replacement, same connector types and layout, same mounting bracket style.
18. Compare the new control board to the old one to verify overall dimensions, connector positions, mounting screw holes, and component layout match.
19. Inspect the new control board for any shipping damage before installation. The PCB should be intact with no visible cracks or damage, all connectors should be present and undamaged, and the mounting bracket should be secure.
20. Position the new control board on the mounting bracket, aligning the mounting holes with the screw holes on the bracket or refrigerator frame. Important: Align the board carefully to match the old board position.
21. Install the mounting screw(s) to secure the control board to the mounting bracket or frame. Important: Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten—over-tightening can crack the PCB or strip screw holes.
22. Verify the control board is securely mounted by gently tugging on it—it should not move or come loose.
23. Reconnect all connectors to the new control board by pushing each connector onto the corresponding terminal. CRITICAL: Connect each connector to the correct terminal using your labels and photos—incorrect wiring causes control board malfunction or refrigerator failure. Verify each connector is fully seated with no bent pins or loose connections.
24. Verify all connector connections are secure by gently tugging on each connector—they should not come off.
25. Verify the connectors are routed correctly and not pinched, stressed, or touching other components.
26. Reinstall any interior panels or covers that were removed to access the control board:Align the panel with the refrigerator cabinetReinstall the mounting screwsVerify the panel is secure
27. Move the refrigerator back into position if it was moved during the repair.
28. Restore electrical power by plugging in the refrigerator or turning on the circuit breaker.
29. Run a test cycle to verify proper control board operation:Verify the refrigerator display lights up (if equipped)Verify the compressor starts within 5-10 minutes (you may hear a clicking sound as the relay activates)Verify the evaporator and condenser fans run (you may hear fan noise)Allow the refrigerator to run for 30 minutesVerify the refrigerator temperature is dropping (check with a thermometer if desired)Verify the freezer temperature is droppingVerify the defrost cycle activates (may hear water draining)Test the ice maker (if equipped) to verify water inlet valve activatesTest the water dispenser (if equipped) to verify dispenser solenoid activates
30. Monitor the refrigerator during the test cycle. The compressor should cycle on and off as the temperature control system maintains the set temperature. Important: If the refrigerator doesn't cool or any functions don't work, stop immediately and verify the connector connections and control board installation.
31. Check for unusual sounds or smells during the test cycle. The refrigerator should operate quietly with no burning smells or unusual noises. Important: Burning smells indicate a problem with the installation or control board.
32. If the refrigerator operates normally and all functions work, the repair is complete.

Safety Notes: Always unplug the refrigerator or disconnect power at the circuit breaker before working on the control board. Verify power is disconnected by attempting to turn on the refrigerator. Ground yourself with an anti-static wrist strap before handling the control board to prevent static discharge damage. Take detailed photos of all connectors and their positions before disconnecting to ensure correct reconnection. Label all connectors before disconnecting to avoid confusion during reassembly. Verify all connector connections are secure with no bent pins or loose connections. Do not force connectors—they should push on smoothly. Position connectors so they're not pinched or stressed. Verify the control board is mounted securely with no movement. Monitor the first test cycle for proper operation of all functions. If the refrigerator doesn't cool or functions don't work, stop immediately and verify the connector connections and control board installation. This repair typically takes 45-60 minutes depending on refrigerator model and control board location. If uncomfortable working with electronic components or unfamiliar with control board replacement procedures, hire a professional appliance technician.

1. All connectors must be reconnected to the correct terminals—incorrect wiring causes control board malfunction or refrigerator failure. The control board has multiple connectors for different components (compressor, fans, sensors, heater, dispenser, ice maker, etc.). Each connector must be reconnected to the exact same terminal as the old board. Always label each connector before disconnecting and use your photos as reference to verify correct reconnection. If you're unsure about the correct connector positions, consult the service manual or contact a qualified technician before reconnecting. Incorrect connector connections can damage the new board or cause complete refrigerator failure.
2. The control board must be handled carefully to avoid static discharge damage—static electricity can damage sensitive electronic components. Electronic components on the control board are sensitive to static discharge. Always ground yourself by wearing an anti-static wrist strap connected to a ground source before handling the control board. Avoid touching the electronic components, connector pins, or PCB traces directly. Handle the control board by the edges only. Store the control board in an anti-static bag until ready for installation. Static discharge damage may not be immediately apparent but can cause premature control board failure.
3. All connectors must be fully seated with no bent pins or loose connections—loose connections cause intermittent refrigerator operation or complete failure. After reconnecting each connector, verify it's fully seated by gently tugging on it—it should not come off. Inspect each connector for bent pins or loose wires. If a connector is not fully seated or has bent pins, disconnect it and reseat or straighten the pins carefully. Loose connections cause intermittent operation (refrigerator works sometimes but not always), which is difficult to diagnose and can lead to food spoilage.
4. The control board mounting must be secure—loose mounting causes vibration and connector loosening. The control board must be mounted securely to the mounting bracket or refrigerator frame with all mounting screws tightened firmly. Loose mounting allows the board to vibrate, which can loosen connectors and cause intermittent operation. After installation, verify the control board is secure by gently tugging on it—it should not move or come loose. If the control board is loose, tighten the mounting screws.
5. The refrigerator should cycle the compressor on and off as temperature control maintains the set temperature—if the compressor runs continuously, the control board may be faulty. After installing the new control board, monitor the refrigerator operation for 30-60 minutes. The compressor should start within 5-10 minutes and then cycle on and off as the temperature control system maintains the set temperature. If the compressor runs continuously without cycling, the temperature control may be faulty or the control board may not be functioning correctly. If the compressor doesn't start at all, the relay circuit may be faulty or the connectors may be incorrect.
6. The defrost cycle should activate periodically—if the defrost cycle doesn't activate, the control board may not be functioning correctly. The control board controls the defrost cycle timing, which typically activates every 8-12 hours depending on the refrigerator model. During the defrost cycle, you may hear water draining from the refrigerator and the compressor may stop temporarily. If the defrost cycle doesn't activate, frost may accumulate on the evaporator coils, reducing cooling efficiency or causing complete cooling failure. If the defrost cycle doesn't activate after 24 hours of operation, the control board may be faulty or the defrost heater may be faulty.
7. The ice maker and water dispenser should respond to user input—if they don't work, the control board may not be activating the solenoid valves. If the refrigerator has an ice maker or water dispenser, test them after installing the new control board. The ice maker should activate the water inlet valve and produce ice within 24 hours. The water dispenser should dispense water when the lever is pressed. If the ice maker or water dispenser doesn't work, the control board may not be activating the solenoid valves, or the solenoid valves may be faulty.
8. The control board has a typical lifespan of 10-15 years with average use, but can be shortened by power surges, moisture exposure, or thermal stress. Factors that shorten control board lifespan include: power surges or electrical spikes (electrical stress), moisture or condensation inside the refrigerator (corrosion), high ambient temperatures (thermal stress), frequent power cycling (thermal cycling stress), or manufacturing defects. To extend control board lifespan, use a surge protector or whole-house surge protection, keep the refrigerator area dry and well-ventilated, avoid frequent power cycling, and maintain proper refrigerator ventilation. Regular maintenance ensures reliable control board operation.
9. If the refrigerator still doesn't cool after control board replacement, verify the compressor, fans, and other components are functioning correctly. The control board is only one component in the refrigeration system. If the refrigerator still doesn't cool after replacing the control board, the compressor may be faulty, the fans may not be running, the refrigerant may be low, or other components may be faulty. Test each component systematically to identify the root cause. A qualified technician can diagnose and repair complex refrigeration system problems.
10. Never attempt to repair a failed control board by cleaning, adjusting, or replacing individual components—these repairs are unsafe and will fail immediately. A failed control board cannot be safely repaired in the field. Attempting to clean the board or replace individual components requires specialized equipment and expertise. The control board is a complex assembly of integrated circuits and electronic components that must work together precisely. Never attempt any repair of a failed control board. Always replace the entire board with a new one. Using a repaired control board is a serious safety risk and will result in refrigerator malfunction.
11. The control board connectors must not be forced—if a connector doesn't fit smoothly, verify you have the correct connector and terminal. When reconnecting connectors to the new control board, each connector should push on smoothly without forcing. If a connector doesn't fit or requires excessive force, verify you have the correct connector and terminal. Forcing a connector can bend pins, damage the connector, or damage the control board terminal. If a connector doesn't fit smoothly, disconnect it and verify the correct terminal using your photos and labels.
12. If the control board display doesn't light up after installation, verify the power connector is properly connected and the circuit breaker is on. The control board display (if equipped) should light up within a few seconds after power is restored. If the display doesn't light up, verify the main power connector is properly connected to the control board and the circuit breaker is turned on. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. If the power connector is properly connected and the circuit breaker is on but the display still doesn't light up, the control board may be defective or the power supply may be faulty.

• Refrigerator doesn't cool (compressor doesn't run, most common symptom)
• Compressor runs continuously without cycling (temperature control failure)
• Freezer is too cold or too warm (temperature sensor failure or control failure)
• Ice maker doesn't work (control board not activating water inlet valve)
• Water dispenser doesn't work (control board not activating dispenser solenoid)
• Refrigerator runs but doesn't defrost (defrost cycle not activating)
• Compressor won't start (relay circuit failure)