Part number WPW10434447 replaces W10434447

G7CE3635XB01, G7CE3635XP01, G7CE3635XS01, G7CE3655XB01, G7CE3655XS01, KECC604BBL00, KECC604BSS00, KECC605BBL00, KECC605BPW00, KECC605BSS00, KECC664BBL00, KECC664BSS00, MEC7430BB00, MEC7430BB01, MEC7430BB02, MEC7430BB03, MEC7430BS00, MEC7430BS01, MEC7430BS02, MEC7430BW00, MEC7430BW01, MEC7430BW02, MEC7430BW03, MEC7430WB01, MEC7430WS01, MEC7430WW01, MEC7536WB01, MEC7536WS01, MEC7536WW01, MEC7630WB01, MEC7630WS01, MEC7630WW01, MEC7636WB01, MEC7636WS01, MEC9530BB00, MEC9530BB01, MEC9530BB02, MEC9530BS00, MEC9530BS01, MEC9536BB00, MEC9536BB01, MEC9536BB02, MEC9536BB03, MEC9536BS00, MEC9536BS01, MEC9536BS02

How do I know if my range burner switch is bad or the element is bad?

The easiest way to tell is the swap test. If you have two burners of the same size (e.g., two 8" or two 6" elements), swap the elements — unplug the non-working element and plug it into the receptacle of a working burner. Turn on the working burner's switch. If the element heats normally, the element is good and the original switch is bad — replace the switch. If the element still doesn't heat in the known-good receptacle, the element itself is burned out — replace the element. This test takes 2 minutes and definitively identifies whether the problem is the switch or the element. If you don't have two same-size burners, you can test the element with a multimeter (disconnect power, unplug the element, measure resistance across the terminal prongs — a good element reads 20–80Ω depending on wattage, OL means burned out). You can also test the switch by checking for voltage at the switch output terminals with the knob turned to High — but this requires working near 240V and should only be done by someone comfortable with electrical testing.

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Whirlpool