Surface Element, Radiant Element, Dual Radiant Element, Burner Element, Cooktop Element, Heating Element, Glass Cooktop Element

Part number WS01F01177 replaces 191D5129P003, WB30T10133, WG02F04091, 191D5129P003

GE, Hotpoint, Café, Profile, Monogram, Haier

EML830BBF0A, EML830NXF0A, EML830NXF0B, EML835BBF0A, EML835BBF0B, EML835BBF0C, EML835BBF0D, EML835NXF0A, EML835NXF0B, EML835NXF0C, EML835NXF0D, IO7680ESS0A, IO7690ESS0A, JCB720D, R1WW, JCB820S, R1SS, JCB830DF1WW, JCB830DF2WW, JCB830DIF1WW, JCB830SF1SS, JCB830SF3SS, JCB830SIF1SS, JCB830SIF2SS, JCB835DIL1WW, JCB835DIL2WW, JCB835DIL3WW, JCB835DIL4WW, GE, SATINLESS, JCB835SIL1SS, JCB835SIL2SS, JCB835SIL3SS, JCB835SIL4SS, JCB840DF1WW, JCB840DF2WW, JCB840DJ1WW, JCB840DK1WW, JCB840DK2WW, JCB840DK3WW, JCB840DK4WW, JCB840DK5WW, JCB840EF1ES, JCB840EF2ES, JCB840EJ1ES, JCB840EK1ES, JCB840EK2ES, JCB840EK3ES, JCB840EK4ES, JCB840SF1SS, JCB840SF2SS, JCB840SF3SS, JCB840SJ1SS, JCB840SK1SS, JCB840SK2SS, JCB840SK3SS, JCB840SK4SS, JCB860DF1WW, JCB860DF2WW, JCB860DJ1WW, JCB860DK1WW, JCB860DK2WW, JCB860DK3WW, BLANCO, JCB860DK4WW, JCB860SF1SS, JCB860SF3SS, JCB860SJ1SS, JCB860SJ1SV, JCB860SK1SS, JCB860SK2SS, JCB860SK3SS, JCB860SK4SS, JCB890SN1SS, JCB890SN2SS, JCBP65D, P1WW, JCBP65D, P2WW, JCBP65M, P1BS, JCBP65M, P2BS, JCBP65M, P3BS, JCBP65M, P4BS, JCBP65S, P1SS, JCBP65S, P2SS, JCBP65S, P3SS, JCBP690ST1SS, JCBP70D, P1BB, JCBP70D, P1WW, JCBP70D, P2BB, JCBP70D, P2WW, JCBP70D, P3BB, JCBP70S, P1SS, JCBP70S, P2SS, JCBP70S, P3SS, JCBP71C, P1BB, JCBP71C, P1WW, JCBP71D, P1BB, JCBP71D, P1WW, JCBP71S, P1SS, JCBP720D, R1WW, JCBP720ST1WW, JCBP720ST2WW, JCBP720ST3WW, JCBP720ST4WW, JCBP780DT1BB, JCBP780DT1WW, JCBP780DT2BB, JCBP780DT2WW, JCBP780ST1SS, JCBP780ST2SS, JCBP790DT1WW, JCBP790ST1SS, JCBP800DT1BB, JCBP800DT1WW, JCBP800ST1SS, JCBP80D, P1BB, JCBP80D, P1CC, JCBP80D, P1WW, JCBP80D, P2BB, JCBP80D, P2WW, JCBP80D, P3BB, JCBP80S, P1SS, JCBP80S, P2SS, JCBP80S, P3SS, JCBP810DT1WW, JCBP810ST1SS, JCBP81D, P1BB, JCBP81D, P1WW, JCBP81D, P2BB, JCBP81D, P2WW, JCBP81S, P1SS, JCBP81S, P2SS, JCBP820S, R1SS, JCBP820ST1SS, JCBP820ST2SS, JCBP820ST3SS, JCBP820ST4SS, JCBS640DT1WW, JCBS650ST1WW, JCBS660DF1WW, JCBS660DF2WW, JCBS660DJ1WW, JCBS660DK1WW, JCBS660DK2WW, JCBS660DK3WW, JCBS660SF1SS, JCBS660SF3SS, JCBS660SJ1SS, JCBS660SK1SS, JCBS660SK2SS, JCS630DF1BB, JCS630DF1WW, JCS630DF2BB, JCS630DF2WW, JCS630DF3WW, SMOOTHTOP, JCS630SF1SS, JCS630SF2SS, JCS630SF3SS, JCS830DM1WW, JCS830EM1ES, JCS830EM2ES, JCS830SM1SS, JCS830SM2SS, JCS830SM3SS, JCS830SM4SS, JCS840BM1TS, JCS840BM2TS, JCS840DM1WW, JCS840EM1ES, JCS840EM2ES, JCS840EM3ES, JCS840EM4ES, JCS840SM1SS, JCS840SM2SS, JCS840SM3SS, JCS840SM4SS, JCS860DF1BB, JCS860DF1WW, JCS860DF2BB, JCS860DF2WW, JCS860DF3BB, JCS860DF3WW, JCS860EF1ES, JCS860EF2ES, JCS860EF3ES, JCS860SF1SS, JCS860SF2SS, JCS860SF3SS, JCSP41SV1SS, JCSP41SV2SS, JCSP41SV3SS, JCSP41SV4SS, JCSP41SV5SS, JCSP42DR1BB, JCSP42DR1WW, JCSP42DR2BB, JCSP42DR2WW, JCSP42DR3BB, JCSP42DR3WW, JCSP42DR4BB, JCSP42DR4WW, JCSP42SR1SS, JCSP42SR2SS, JCSP42SR3SS, JCSP46DR1BB, JCSP46DR1WW, JCSP46DR2BB, JCSP46DR2WW, JCSP46DR3BB, JCSP46DR3WW, JCSP46DR4BB, JCSP46DR4WW, JCSP46SR1SS, JCSP46SR2SS, JCSP46SR3SS, JCSS630SM1SS, JCSS630SM2SS, JCSS630SM3SS, JCSS630SM4SS, PCB800DR1WW, PCB900DR1BB, PCB900DR1WW, PCB900DR2BB, PCB900DR2WW, PCB900DR3BB, PCB900DR3WW, PCB900SR1SS, PCB900SR2SS, PCB900SR3SS, PCB900SR4SS, PCB905SJ1SS, PCB905SK1SS, PCB905SK2SS, PCB905SK3SS, PCB905SP1SS, PCB905SV1SS, PCB905SV2SS, PCB905SV3SS, PCB905YP1FS, PCB909DR1WW, PCB909DR2WW, PCB909DR3WW, PCB909DR4WW, PCB909SR1SS, PCB909SR2SS, PCB909SR3SS, PCB909SR4SS, PCB910SF1SS, PCB910SF2SS, PCB910SF3SS, PCB915EK1ES, PCB915EK2ES, PCB915EK3ES, PCB915EK4ES, PCB915SK1SS, PCB915SK2SS, PCB915SK3SS, PCB915SK4SS, PCB940DF1WW, PCB940DF2WW, PCB940DF3WW, PCB940SF1SS, PCB940SF2SS, PCB940SF3SS, PCS915EM1ES, PCS915SM1SS, PCS915SM2SS, PCS915SM3SS, PCS915SM4SS, Q, SS740BN1TS, Q, SS740RN1SS, QCSS740BN1TS, QCSS740RN1SS, RB790S, R1SA, RB790S, R2SA 

Professional Repair Time: 45-60 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 60-90 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Moderate-High (3.5/5) — Requires turning off power and verifying power is off, removing oven racks, accessing element from below cooktop, disconnecting electrical wires, removing mounting screws, removing old element, installing new element, reconnecting electrical wires, testing operation at both low and high settings

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working with high-voltage electrical systems (240V AC). Always turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker before beginning work to prevent electrical shock. Verify power is off using a voltage tester before touching any electrical components. If uncomfortable with this repair or unfamiliar with electrical safety procedures, hire a qualified appliance technician. IMPORTANT: Allow the cooktop to cool completely before beginning work—the glass surface and element can remain hot for 30-60 minutes after use.TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, nut driver or socket set (typically 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch), needle-nose pliers, voltage tester, flashlight, work gloves, towels.IMPORTANT: This element is rated for 240V AC operation—verify your range operates at 240V before ordering.

1. Turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker to ensure complete power disconnection. CRITICAL: Never work on the range while it's powered on. 240V AC can cause severe electrical shock or death.
2. Verify power is off using a voltage tester at the range outlet or terminal block. CRITICAL: Do not proceed until you confirm power is off.
3. Allow the cooktop to cool completely before beginning work. The glass surface and element can remain hot for 30-60 minutes after use. CAUTION: Touching a hot cooktop can cause severe burn injury.
4. Move the range away from the wall to provide working space. Caution: Ranges are heavy (150-300 lbs)—get assistance when moving.
5. Remove the cooktop grates or trivets (if applicable) from the cooking surface.
6. Access the element from below by opening the oven door and removing the oven racks to provide access to the underside of the cooktop.
7. Locate the failed surface element beneath the cooktop. The element is mounted to the underside of the glass cooktop with a mounting bracket.
8. Take multiple photos of the element location, mounting bracket position, electrical terminal connections, wire colors and routing, and component positions before disassembly. CRITICAL: Electrical connections must be exact for proper reassembly and safe operation.
9. Take detailed close-up photos of: the electrical terminal block and wire connections (typically 3-4 wires), wire colors and positions, mounting screw locations and sizes, element orientation, and cooktop frame configuration.
10. Disconnect the electrical wires from the element terminal block by removing the wire nuts or loosening the terminal screws. Caution: Do not pull on the wires—carefully disconnect each terminal.
11. Label the wires with tape or markers indicating their positions before disconnection. CRITICAL: Incorrect wiring causes element malfunction or electrical hazards.
12. Remove the mounting screws securing the element mounting bracket to the cooktop frame using a screwdriver or nut driver (typically 2-4 screws, 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch size). Caution: Support the element while removing the last screw.
13. Carefully lower the old element from the underside of the cooktop. CAUTION: The element may still be warm—use gloves.
14. Inspect the old element for damage indicators: element not heating (coil burnout, most common), element heating slowly or weakly (partial coil failure), visible cracks or breaks in the heating coil (physical damage), burned or corroded electrical terminals (connection failure), cracked ceramic insulator (thermal stress), or visible damage to element housing (impact damage). This confirms the diagnosis.
15. Inspect the cooktop glass surface for cracks or damage. Important: If the glass is cracked, it must be replaced separately—this repair only replaces the element beneath the glass.
16. Inspect the cooktop frame and mounting area for damage, corrosion, or debris. Clean the mounting area thoroughly.
17. Unpack the new WS01F01177 element from its packaging. CAUTION: The element is fragile—handle carefully.
18. Compare the new element to the old one to verify diameter (9 inches), power rating (1400/3000 watts), mounting bracket design, electrical terminal configuration, and overall design match.
19. Inspect the new element for any shipping damage before installation. The heating coils should be intact with no cracks or damage, the ceramic insulator should be intact and undamaged, the mounting bracket should be straight and undamaged, the electrical terminals should be clean and undamaged, and the element housing should be intact.
20. Position the new element beneath the cooktop, aligning the mounting bracket with the screw holes in the cooktop frame. Important: The element orientation must match the old element per your detailed photos.
21. Lift the element up to the underside of the glass cooktop, ensuring it's centered properly beneath the cooking zone.
22. Install the mounting screws to secure the element to the cooktop frame. Start all screws by hand before tightening. Important: Tighten the screws evenly to ensure proper alignment.
23. Tighten the mounting screws firmly using a screwdriver or nut driver. Caution: Do not over-tighten—this can crack the ceramic insulator or damage the mounting bracket.
24. Verify the element is securely mounted with no excessive play or movement. The element should be stable and centered beneath the glass cooking zone.
25. Connect the electrical wires to the new element terminal block according to your detailed photos and labels. Match the wire colors and positions exactly. CRITICAL: Incorrect connections cause element malfunction or electrical hazards.
26. Secure the wire connections by tightening the terminal screws or installing wire nuts. Ensure all connections are tight and secure.
27. Verify all electrical connections are secure by gently tugging on each wire—they should not come loose.
28. Verify no wires are pinched or touching hot surfaces that could cause damage during operation.
29. Reinstall the oven racks.
30. Move the range back into position. Caution: Get assistance when moving.
31. Restore electrical power by turning on the circuit breaker.
32. Run a test cycle to verify proper element operation:Turn on the repaired cooking zone to the low settingThe element should begin heating within 30-60 secondsThe cooking zone indicator light should illuminateAllow the element to heat for 2-3 minutesVerify the glass surface is heating evenlyTurn the cooking zone to the high settingThe element should heat more intenselyAllow the element to heat for 2-3 minutes on highVerify the glass surface reaches high temperature
33. Check for any unusual sounds, smells, or visual indicators during the test cycle. The element should operate quietly with no burning smells.
34. Turn off the cooking zone and allow it to cool.
35. Run a full cooking test by boiling water in a pot to verify proper heating performance over an extended period.
36. Monitor for proper performance during the cooking test: even heating across the cooking zone, proper temperature control at all settings, no unusual sounds or smells, and consistent heating throughout the cycle.
37. If the cooking zone operates normally with proper heating at all settings, the repair is complete.

Safety Notes: Always turn off power at the circuit breaker and verify power is off before working on the element. Allow the cooktop to cool completely before beginning work. Label all electrical connections before disconnection to ensure correct reassembly. Verify the element is securely mounted before testing. Test operation at both low and high settings to verify both heating coils are working. This repair typically takes 45-60 minutes depending on range model and element access. If uncomfortable working with high-voltage electrical systems (240V AC), hire a professional appliance technician.

1. The WS01F01177 is a dual radiant element with two power levels (1400W and 3000W)—the control board switches between the two coils based on the user's heat setting. For low and medium settings, the control board sends power to the 1400-watt coil only. For high settings, the control board sends power to both coils (1400W + 1600W = 3000W total). This dual-coil design provides better temperature control and more versatile cooking performance. If only one coil fails, the element may still heat but won't reach high temperatures. Always test the element at both low and high settings to verify both coils are working.
2. Before replacing the range surface element, always test the old element with a multimeter to verify it's actually the problem—a faulty control board or infinite switch is often misdiagnosed as a failed element. The element should have a resistance of approximately 19-20 ohms for the 3000-watt setting (both coils) and approximately 40-45 ohms for the 1400-watt setting (single coil). If the resistance is infinite (open circuit), the element has failed. If the resistance is normal but the cooking zone still doesn't heat, the control board or infinite switch may be faulty. Testing the element before replacement saves time and money by confirming the diagnosis.
3. **The element must be securely mounted and properly centered beneath the glass cooking zone—improper mounting causes uneven heating and potential damage to the glass surface.** The element should be centered directly beneath the cooking zone with equal spacing on all sides. If the element is off-center or tilted, heat will concentrate in one area and may damage the glass surface or cause uneven cooking. Always verify the element is properly centered and level before final installation. Use your detailed photos as a guide to ensure correct positioning.
4. The electrical terminal connections must be secure and properly matched—loose or incorrect connections cause element failure and potential fire hazard. Each wire must be connected to the correct terminal according to the original design. Incorrect connections can cause the element to malfunction or create electrical hazards. Always label the wires before disconnection and match them exactly during reconnection. Verify all terminal screws are tight and all wire nuts are secure. Gently tug on each wire after connection to verify it's secure.
5. If the new element fails immediately after installation (within the first few cycles), the cause is typically: incorrect electrical connections, faulty control board, faulty infinite switch, or defective replacement element. Verify the electrical connections match your photos and labels exactly. Verify the control board is sending power to the element (use a voltage tester). Verify the infinite switch is functioning (listen for clicking when heat setting is changed). If everything else is correct, the replacement element may be defective—contact the supplier for a replacement or refund.
6. The element heating coils are made of nichrome wire, which has excellent high-temperature resistance but can burn out from electrical stress or overheating. Nichrome wire can withstand temperatures up to 2200°F but can break from thermal cycling stress, manufacturing defects, or electrical overload. The WS01F01177's improved design includes better coil construction to reduce burnout risk and extend element lifespan. Handle the element carefully to avoid damaging the coils.
7. Thermal cycling stress is a primary cause of element failure—repeated heating and cooling cycles gradually degrade the nichrome wire coils. Each time the cooking zone is used, the element heats from room temperature to over 1200°F, then cools back down when turned off. This rapid thermal cycling creates stress in the nichrome wire, causing micro-cracks that eventually lead to complete failure. The WS01F01177's improved design with better coil construction helps reduce thermal cycling stress and extends element lifespan.
8. The ceramic insulator backing must be intact and undamaged—cracks in the insulator can cause electrical leakage and element failure. The ceramic insulator provides electrical insulation between the heating coils and the mounting bracket. If the insulator is cracked, electrical current can leak through the crack, causing the element to malfunction or create electrical hazards. Inspect the old element's ceramic backing for cracks. If the backing is cracked, the element must be replaced. A cracked backing cannot be repaired.
9. The element must be rated for 240V AC operation—verify your range operates at 240V before ordering. Most modern electric ranges operate at 240V AC, but some older ranges may operate at 120V AC or have mixed voltage circuits. Installing a 240V element in a 120V circuit will not heat properly. Installing a 120V element in a 240V circuit will burn out immediately. Always verify your range voltage before ordering a replacement element. Check the range nameplate or circuit breaker to confirm voltage.
10. After replacing the range surface element, test both the low and high heat settings to verify both heating coils are working. Turn the cooking zone to low and verify it heats at reduced intensity. Turn the cooking zone to high and verify it heats at full intensity. If the element heats on low but not on high, the high-power coil may be faulty. If the element doesn't heat on either setting, both coils may be faulty. Verify both settings work properly before considering the repair complete.
11. The range surface element lifespan is typically 10-15 years with average use, but can be shortened by thermal cycling stress, manufacturing defects, or electrical overload. Factors that shorten element life include: frequent cooking (more thermal cycles), high-temperature cooking (thermal stress), manufacturing defects in the nichrome wire, electrical overload from power surges, and poor electrical connections (arcing and overheating). To extend element life, use appropriate heat settings for cooking tasks, avoid rapid temperature changes, maintain proper electrical connections, and use genuine OEM replacement elements.
12. The glass cooktop surface can be damaged by thermal shock if a cold pot is placed on a hot element or if water is spilled on a hot surface. Thermal shock can cause the glass to crack, which is not covered by element replacement. To prevent thermal shock damage, allow the cooktop to cool before placing cold cookware on it, avoid pouring cold water on a hot cooktop, and use cookware with flat bottoms that make full contact with the glass surface. Proper cooktop care extends the life of both the element and the glass surface.

• Cooking zone not heating (element not working, most common symptom)
• Cooking zone heating slowly or weakly (partial element failure)
• Cooking zone heating unevenly (one coil failed)
• Cooking zone not reaching high temperatures (high-power coil failed)
• Burning smell from cooking zone (element overheating or insulation failure)
• Visible cracks or damage to element (physical damage)
• Complete cooking zone failure (element unable to heat)
• Cooking zone indicator light on but no heat (element burnout)
• Intermittent heating (loose electrical connection or failing element)
• Cooking zone taking longer than normal to heat (weak element)
• Uneven cooking results (uneven heat distribution from failing element)
• Circuit breaker tripping when cooking zone is used (element short circuit)