Part number WS01F01598 replaces WB23M111, WB24T10153, WB27T10384, 229C4709P006

GE (General Electric)

CBC980SN1SS, CS980SN1SS, ECBP82DP1WW, ECBP82SP1SS, EML730BBF0A, EML730NNF0A, EML730NXF0A, EML735BBF0A, EML735BBF0B, EML735BBF0C, EML735BBF0D, EML735BBF0E, EML735NNF0A, EML735NNF0B, EML735NNF0C, EML735NNF0D, EML735NNF0E, EML735NXF0A, EML735NXF0B, EML735NXF0C, EML735NXF0D, EML735NXF0E, EML735NXF0F, EML830BBF0A, EML830NXF0A, EML830NXF0B, EML835BBF0A, EML835BBF0B, EML835BBF0C, EML835BBF0D, EML835BBF0E, EML835NXF0A, EML835NXF0B, EML835NXF0C, EML835NXF0D, EML835NXF0E, EML835NXF0F, EMVC160DDXI0, EMVC160DXI0, IO7680ESS0A, IO7690ESS0A, JCB710DP1WW, JCB710SP1SS, JCB710SP2SS, JCB710SP3SS, JCB720DR1WW, JCB730DF1BB, JCB730DF1WW, JCB730DF2BB, JCB730DF2WW, JCB730DF3BB, JCB730DF3WW, JCB730DIF1BB, JCB730DIF1WW, JCB730DK1BB, JCB730DK1WW, JCB730DK2BB, JCB730DK3BB, JCB730SF1SS, JCB730SF2SS, JCB730SF3SS, JCB730SIF1SS, JCB730SIF2SS, JCB730SJ1SS, JCB730SJ2SS, JCB730SK1SS, JCB730SK2SS, JCB730SK3SS, JCB730SK4SS, JCB730SK5SS, JCB730SK6SS, JCB735DIL1BB, JCB735DIL1WW, JCB735DIL2BB, JCB735DIL2WW, JCB735DIL3BB, JCB735DIL3WW, JCB735DIL4BB, JCB735DIL4WW, JCB735DIL5BB, JCB735DIL5WW, JCB735SIL1SS, JCB735SIL2SS, JCB735SIL3SS, JCB735SIL4SS, JCB735SIL5SS, JCB735SIL6SS, JCB810SK1SS, JCB820S R1SS, JCB820SK1SS, JCB830DF1WW, JCB830DF2WW, JCB830DIF1WW, JCB830DJ1WW, JCB830DK1WW, JCB830DK2WW, JCB830DK3WW, JCB830DK4WW, JCB830DK5WW, JCB830DK6WW

⚠️ Safety Warning: This repair involves 240V wiring. Always disconnect power completely before starting. 240V can cause serious injury or death.

Tools Needed:

• Phillips screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Smartphone or camera (photograph wire connections)
• Masking tape and marker (label wires)

Installation:

1. Disconnect power — Turn off the circuit breaker (40–50 amp double-pole). Verify power is off. For plug-in ranges, unplug from the wall outlet.
2. Remove the burner control knob — pull straight off the shaft.
3. Remove the control panel/backsplash:Remove screws securing the backsplash (top edge or rear) or front control panel (underneath or at ends).Tilt or lift to access the switches behind.
4. Locate the infinite switch — directly behind the knob you removed. It has a threaded shaft and multiple wire terminals.
5. Photograph all wire connections — clear, close-up photos from multiple angles.
6. Label each wire — use masking tape and marker on each wire with its terminal designation.
7. Disconnect the wires — using needle-nose pliers, pull each spade connector straight off. Grip the connector, not the wire. Inspect each connector for heat damage — replace any that are melted or discolored.
8. Remove the mounting nut — from the front of the panel, unscrew the nut securing the switch shaft.
9. Remove the old switch — push it back through the panel.
10. Install the new WS01F01598 switch — insert the shaft through the panel hole from behind. Ensure the switch body is oriented the same way as the old one.
11. Secure with the mounting nut — tighten snugly from the front.
12. Reconnect all wires — refer to your photos and labels. Push each spade connector firmly onto the correct terminal. Ensure every connection is tight and fully seated.
13. Verify no loose wires — nothing touching other terminals or metal surfaces.
14. Reinstall the control panel/backsplash — secure with screws. No wires pinched.
15. Reinstall the burner knob — align the D-shaped hole with the shaft, push firmly. Verify knob points to "Off" when seated.
16. Restore power. Test the burner: High (element should glow red within 1–2 minutes), Medium (element cycles — glow dims and brightens rhythmically), Low (element cycles more noticeably), Off (element stops glowing, indicator light turns off once cooled). Test all other burners to verify no wiring was disturbed.

A burner that won't turn off is a safety emergency — act immediately. If your burner stays on high regardless of the knob position, the infinite switch contacts have welded shut, meaning the element receives continuous full power and cannot be controlled. Turn off the circuit breaker for the range immediately and do not use the range until the switch is replaced. Do not simply turn the knob to "off" and assume it's safe — welded contacts bypass the off position.Before replacing the switch, rule out a shorted element. A shorted heating element can mimic a bad switch. With power off, disconnect one wire from the element and measure resistance with a multimeter. A good element reads 20–80 ohms depending on wattage. A reading of 0 ohms means the element is shorted and needs replacement — the switch may be fine.Inspect the wire connectors carefully. If you see melted plastic, blackened terminals, or burned connectors on the old switch, the switch was overheating due to a loose connection. Loose connections create resistance, which generates heat, which melts the connector, which creates more resistance — a vicious cycle that destroys switches. When installing the new switch, ensure all spade connectors are tight and fully seated. Replace any damaged connectors with new crimp-on spade connectors before installation.Infinite switches are not interchangeable between burner sizes. A switch rated for a large burner (2,500W) handles more current than one for a small burner (1,200W). Always use the correct part number for the specific burner position. Installing an undersized switch on a large burner will cause premature failure from overcurrent.Knob alignment: After installing the new switch, verify the knob points to "Off" when fully seated on the shaft. If the knob is rotated (pointing to a heat setting when it should be off), the D-shaft may not be aligned correctly — remove the knob, rotate it, and reseat.