233D2433G001, WH43X10009, WH43X10010, WH43X27086, WH43X27087, AP6885717, PS12728097, 4840866, 4840867

GE: GTW330ASK0WW, GTW330ASK1WW, GTW330ASK2WW, GTW335ASN0WW, GTW335ASN1WW, GTW335ASN2WW, GTW460ASJ0WW, GTW460ASJ1WW, GTW460ASJ2WW, GTW465ASN0WW

GE (continued): GTW485ASJ0WS, GTW485ASJ1WS, GTW485ASJ2WS, GTW500ASN0WS, GTW500ASN1WS, GTW500ASN2WS, GTW680BSJ0WS, GTW680BSJ1WS, GTW720BSN0WS, GTW720BSN1WS

Hotpoint: HTW200ASK0WW, HTW200ASK1WW, HTW200ASK2WW, HTW240ASK0WW, HTW240ASK1WW, HTW240ASK2WW, HTWP1400D0WW, HTWP1400D1WW, HTWP1400D2WW, HTWP1800H0WW

Haier: HWD1600BW1, HWD1600BW2, HWD1600BW3, HWF1600AW1, HWF1600AW2, HWF1600AW3, HWT1600AW1, HWT1600AW2, HWT1600AW3, HLP21N

Note: This is a partial list. This dual agitator assembly is used in many GE-manufactured top-load washers built between 2010-2024. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering.

Required Tools:

• 7/16" socket wrench or adjustable wrench
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Rubber mallet (optional, for stubborn agitators)
• Towel (to protect washer surface)
• Work gloves
• Penetrating oil (optional, for stuck agitators)

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet or turn off the circuit breaker. This step is optional for agitator replacement since you're not working with electrical components, but it's always safer to work on unpowered appliances.
2. Shut Off Water Supply (Optional): Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer. This step is optional but recommended for safety.
3. Open Washer Lid: Lift the washer lid to access the wash tub and agitator.
4. Remove Fabric Softener Dispenser: Grasp the fabric softener dispenser cup at the top of the agitator and pull straight up to remove it. Some models have a twist-lock design—twist counterclockwise and lift. Set the dispenser aside.
5. Locate Agitator Bolt: With the dispenser removed, you'll see the agitator bolt at the top center of the agitator. This bolt secures the agitator to the drive shaft.
6. Remove Agitator Bolt: Use a 7/16" socket wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the agitator bolt. Turn counterclockwise (lefty-loosey) to loosen and remove. The bolt may be very tight—use firm, steady pressure. Keep this bolt—you'll need it for reinstallation unless the new agitator includes a replacement bolt.
7. Attempt to Lift Agitator: Once the bolt is removed, grasp the agitator firmly with both hands and pull straight up with steady, firm pressure. The agitator should lift off the drive shaft. If it doesn't come off easily, proceed to the next steps.
8. Break the Seal (Stubborn Agitators): If the agitator won't lift off, it's likely sealed to the drive shaft with detergent buildup, mineral deposits, or corrosion. Try these methods:Rocking Method: Rock the agitator back and forth while pulling upward to break the seal.Hot Water Method: Pour hot (not boiling) water around the base of the agitator to soften detergent buildup. Wait 5-10 minutes, then try lifting again.Penetrating Oil Method: Spray penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster) around the base of the agitator where it meets the tub. Wait 15-30 minutes for the oil to penetrate, then try lifting again.Rubber Mallet Method: Place a towel over the top of the agitator to protect it. Tap the sides of the agitator with a rubber mallet while pulling upward to break the seal.
9. Remove Old Agitator: Once the seal is broken, lift the old agitator straight up and out of the wash tub. It may require significant force—pull steadily and firmly. Set the old agitator aside.
10. Inspect Drive Shaft: With the agitator removed, examine the agitator drive shaft (the vertical shaft in the center of the tub). Check for damage, wear, or debris. The shaft should have splines (grooves) that engage with the agitator. Clean any detergent buildup or debris from the shaft.
11. Clean Drive Shaft: Wipe down the drive shaft with a damp cloth to remove all detergent residue, mineral deposits, and debris. A clean shaft ensures the new agitator seats properly and operates smoothly.
12. Inspect Tub Base: Check the area around the drive shaft for any cracks, damage, or foreign objects. Remove any debris from the tub bottom.
13. Inspect Old Agitator: Examine the old agitator for visible damage: stripped agitator dogs (directional cogs inside the agitator), cracks in the agitator body, broken fins, or worn splines in the base. This helps confirm the diagnosis and identify the cause of failure.
14. Prepare New Agitator: Remove the new agitator assembly from its packaging. Verify it matches the old agitator in size, shape, and design. The new agitator should include both upper and lower sections already assembled, plus the fabric softener dispenser cup.
15. Inspect New Agitator Base: Look inside the base of the new agitator. You'll see splines (grooves) that must align with the splines on the drive shaft. Ensure the interior is clean and free of packaging materials.
16. Align Agitator with Drive Shaft: Position the new agitator over the drive shaft. Align the splines inside the agitator base with the splines on the drive shaft. The agitator will only fit one way—the splines must match.
17. Lower Agitator onto Shaft: Once aligned, lower the agitator straight down onto the drive shaft. Push down firmly with steady pressure. The agitator should slide down the shaft and seat fully at the bottom of the tub.
18. Verify Full Seating: The agitator base should sit flush against the bottom of the tub with no gap. If there's a gap, the agitator isn't fully seated—remove it and check for obstructions or misaligned splines.
19. Install Agitator Bolt: Insert the agitator bolt through the center hole at the top of the agitator and thread it into the drive shaft. Hand-tighten the bolt first to ensure proper threading.
20. Tighten Agitator Bolt: Use a 7/16" socket wrench to tighten the agitator bolt securely. Turn clockwise (righty-tighty). Tighten firmly but do not overtighten—typical torque is 25-30 ft-lbs. Overtightening can strip the threads or crack the agitator. The agitator should be secure and not wobble or lift off the shaft.
21. Test Agitator Movement: With the bolt tightened, grasp the agitator and try to move it side to side and up and down. It should be firmly secured with no wobbling or lifting. The upper agitator section should rotate independently from the lower section—test this by twisting the upper section while holding the lower section.
22. Install Fabric Softener Dispenser: Place the fabric softener dispenser cup back into the top of the agitator. Push down or twist clockwise (depending on design) until it's fully seated and secure.
23. Restore Water Supply (if disconnected): Turn on both hot and cold water supply valves by turning them counterclockwise until fully open.
24. Restore Power (if disconnected): Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet or turn on the circuit breaker.
25. Test Agitator Operation: Run a NORMAL wash cycle without clothes. Watch the agitator during the wash phase. It should agitate back and forth smoothly with the upper section oscillating independently. There should be no unusual noises, wobbling, or binding.
26. Verify Dual-Action Movement: During the test cycle, observe that the lower agitator section provides the primary back-and-forth motion, while the upper section rotates independently to lift and tumble clothes. This dual action is the key feature of this agitator design.
27. Check for Leaks: During the test cycle, watch for any water leaks around the base of the agitator or from the center shaft area. There should be no leaks.
28. Full Load Test: Run a complete wash cycle with a normal load of laundry to verify the agitator operates properly under load without unusual noises, vibration, or performance issues.

Test the agitator dogs before replacing the entire agitator. The most common "agitator failure" is actually just worn agitator dogs (directional cogs inside the agitator that allow it to move in both directions). Before ordering a complete $80+ agitator assembly, remove the agitator and inspect the dogs. The upper agitator section typically has replaceable agitator dogs that cost $10-15. If only the dogs are worn and the agitator body is intact, replace just the dogs instead of the entire agitator. This saves $60+ and takes the same amount of time. An estimated 60% of agitator replacements are unnecessary—only the dogs need replacement.

Use the hot water method for stuck agitators. Agitators that have been in place for 5+ years are often sealed to the drive shaft with hardened detergent buildup and mineral deposits. Never force a stuck agitator with excessive prying or hammering—you'll crack the tub or damage the drive shaft. Pour hot water around the agitator base, wait 10 minutes for the buildup to soften, then use the rocking method while pulling upward. This method removes 95% of stuck agitators without damage. Patience saves expensive tub repairs.

Verify the drive shaft isn't damaged. If your agitator failed or stripped, inspect the drive shaft for damage before installing the new agitator. A damaged, worn, or stripped drive shaft will destroy your new agitator within weeks. The shaft splines should be sharp and well-defined, not rounded or worn smooth. If the shaft is damaged, it requires transmission repair or replacement—a much more expensive fix than just replacing the agitator. Don't install a new agitator on a bad drive shaft.

Tighten the agitator bolt to proper torque. The agitator bolt must be tightened to 25-30 ft-lbs for proper operation. Undertightening causes the agitator to wobble, make noise, and eventually strip the splines. Overtightening can strip the threads in the drive shaft or crack the agitator hub. Use a torque wrench if available, or tighten firmly by hand with a socket wrench—about as tight as you'd tighten a car's lug nut by hand. Proper torque ensures years of reliable operation.

Check for transmission problems if the new agitator doesn't work. If your new agitator doesn't move during wash cycles, the problem is likely the transmission, drive belt, or motor—not the agitator itself. The agitator is a passive component driven by the transmission. Before assuming the new agitator is defective, verify the transmission is engaging, the drive belt is intact and tight, and the motor is running. An estimated 20% of "agitator failures" are actually transmission or drive system failures.

Clean the tub and agitator regularly. Agitator failures are often accelerated by detergent buildup, fabric softener residue, and mineral deposits that cause excessive friction and wear. After installing the new agitator, establish a monthly cleaning routine: run an empty CLEAN WASHER cycle with washer cleaner or vinegar, wipe down the agitator and tub, and use the correct amount of HE detergent (1-2 tablespoons per load). Proper maintenance extends agitator life from 5 years to 10+ years.

Consider upgrading to an impeller if agitator problems persist. If you've replaced the agitator multiple times or have recurring agitation problems, consider upgrading to an impeller-style washer. Modern impeller washers provide better cleaning performance, use less water, are gentler on clothes, and have fewer moving parts to fail. While agitators were the standard for decades, impeller technology has surpassed them in efficiency and reliability. If your washer is 10+ years old and needs a second agitator replacement, it may be time to upgrade to a new machine.