Verify freezer temperature before blaming the ice maker. Ice makers require a freezer temperature of 0°F to 5°F (-18°C to -15°C) to function properly. If your freezer is too warm, the ice maker will produce small, hollow, or soft cubes—or no ice at all. Use a freezer thermometer to verify temperature before replacing the ice maker. Adjust the freezer temperature control and wait 24 hours. An estimated 30% of "ice maker failures" are actually temperature problems.
Check water pressure and supply line. Ice makers require a minimum water pressure of 20 PSI to fill properly. Low water pressure causes small cubes, slow production, or no ice. Also inspect the water supply line for kinks, frozen sections, or clogged filters. Replace the refrigerator water filter if it hasn't been changed in 6+ months—a clogged filter restricts water flow and mimics ice maker failure.
Test the old ice maker before replacing. Many LG ice makers have a TEST button on the front. Press and hold for 3 seconds to initiate a manual harvest cycle. If the ice maker fills, freezes, and ejects ice during the test cycle, the ice maker itself is fine—the problem is likely the temperature sensor, control board, or water inlet valve. Testing saves you from replacing a $150 ice maker that isn't actually broken.
Inspect the ice maker fill cup and tube. The fill cup (where water enters the ice mold) can crack or become misaligned, causing water to spray into the freezer instead of filling the mold. Also check the water fill tube for ice blockages—a frozen fill tube prevents water from reaching the ice maker. Use a hair dryer on low heat to thaw a frozen fill tube (never use high heat or open flame).
Arm position and bin sensor matter. LG ice makers have a shutoff arm or optical sensor that detects when the ice bin is full. If the arm is stuck in the UP position or the sensor is blocked by frost, the ice maker thinks the bin is full and won't produce ice. Clean the sensor lens with a soft cloth and ensure the shutoff arm moves freely. Verify the ice bin is properly installed—an incorrectly positioned bin can trigger the shutoff sensor.First batch timing expectations. After installing a new ice maker, it takes 6-12 hours for the freezer to reach proper temperature and the first batch of ice to freeze completely. Don't expect immediate ice production. The ice maker will produce 8-10 cubes every 90-120 minutes once it's fully operational. If no ice appears after 24 hours, recheck water supply, freezer temperature, and electrical connections.
Mineral buildup and water quality. Hard water causes mineral deposits that clog the fill tube and damage ice maker components over time. If your water is hard (high mineral content), consider installing an inline water filter or using a water softener. This extends ice maker life and improves ice quality. Clean the fill cup and tube annually with a vinegar solution to remove mineral buildup.
- Ice maker stops producing ice completely
- Ice maker produces small, hollow, or malformed cubes
- Ice maker cycles continuously but doesn't eject ice
- Ice maker fills with water but doesn't freeze or harvest
- Water leaks from ice maker into freezer compartment
- Ice maker makes loud grinding or clicking noises
- Ice cubes stuck in ice maker mold (won't eject)
- Ice maker arm stuck in up position (won't lower)
- Ice maker overfills and water overflows into bin
- Ice maker produces ice very slowly (less than 1 batch per day)
- Ice tastes bad or has odor (due to old plastic components)
- Ice maker motor runs but doesn't rotate ejector blades
- Visible cracks or damage in ice maker housing
- Ice maker worked intermittently before failing completely
- Freezer temperature normal but ice maker doesn't work
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