Always verify the burner element is good before replacing the switch. Swap the suspect element with a known-working element from another burner, or test continuity with a multimeter (should read 20–50 ohms depending on wattage). If the element is open (infinite resistance), it's bad — replacing the switch won't help. When reconnecting wires to the new switch, terminal labeling is critical: H1/H2 typically connect to the heating element, L1/L2 connect to the power supply lines, and P connects to the indicator light circuit. Misconnecting these can result in no heat, constant heat, or a non-working indicator light. If you find melted wire connectors or burned terminals on the old switch, the wires may have overheated — cut back the damaged wire and install new crimp-on spade connectors for a reliable connection. Burned connectors are often caused by loose connections that arc and generate heat, so ensure all connections are tight on the new switch. If multiple switches have failed or show heat damage, consider having an electrician check the range's power supply for voltage issues.
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