W10745484, W10866551, W10882923, W10316320, W10854037, PS11756782, AP6022824, 8564352, 8564353

Whirlpool: WRF535SWHZ00, WRF535SWHZ01, WRF535SWHZ02, WRF540CWHZ00, WRF540CWHZ01, WRF555SDFZ00, WRF555SDFZ01, WRF560SEYM00, WRF560SEYM01, WRF560SMHZ00

KitchenAid: KRFC300ESS00, KRFC300ESS01, KRFC300ESS02, KRFC302ESS00, KRFC302ESS01, KRFC704FPS00, KRFC704FPS01, KRFF305ESS00, KRFF305ESS01, KRFF507HPS00

Maytag: MFT2776FEZ00, MFT2776FEZ01, MFT2776FEZ02, MFW2055FRZ00, MFW2055FRZ01, MFW2055YEM00, MFW2055YEM01, MFF2558FEZ00, MFF2558FEZ01, MFF2558VEM00

Jenn-Air: JFC2089BEM00, JFC2089BEM01, JFC2089HEP00, JFC2089HEP01, JFC2290VEM00, JFC2290VEM01, JFX2897DRM00, JFX2897DRM01, JFX2897DRP00, JFX2897DRP01

Amana: AFI2539ERM00, AFI2539ERM01, AFI2539ERM02, ASI2575FRS00, ASI2575FRS01, ASI2575GRS00, ASI2575GRS01, ASD2575BRS00, ASD2575BRS01, ASD2575BRW00Note: This is a partial list. This air damper assembly is used in many Whirlpool-manufactured French door and side-by-side refrigerators built between 2014-2024. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering.

Professional: 30-45 minutes
DIY: 60-90 minutes
Difficulty Level: Medium repair (requires refrigerator interior access and precise wire connections)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver (optional)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work gloves
• Flashlight
• Towel (to protect refrigerator surfaces)
• Camera or smartphone (for reference photos)

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet or turn off the circuit breaker. Never work on the refrigerator with power connected.
2. Empty Refrigerator Shelves: Remove food items from the top shelves of the fresh food compartment to provide clear access to the air damper area. Store perishables in coolers if needed.
3. Remove Top Shelves: Take out the top refrigerator shelf or shelves to access the rear wall and ceiling area where the damper is located.
4. Locate Air Damper Cover: The air damper is located at the top rear of the fresh food compartment, typically behind a small rectangular vent cover or grille in the ceiling or upper rear wall. This cover may have visible vents or slots.
5. Remove Air Damper Cover: Remove the screws securing the air damper cover (typically 2-4 screws). If there are no visible screws, the cover may be held by clips—gently pry with a flathead screwdriver to release clips. Carefully pull the cover forward and down to remove it.
6. Locate Air Damper Assembly: With the cover removed, you'll see the air damper assembly. It's a plastic housing with a motorized door/flap, wire harness connector, and temperature sensor.
7. Take Reference Photos: Before disconnecting anything, take clear photos of the air damper showing the wire harness connection, mounting orientation, and sensor position.
8. Disconnect Wire Harness: Locate the wire harness connector on the air damper assembly (typically a multi-pin connector with 3-6 wires). Press the release tab and carefully pull the connector apart. Do not pull on the wires themselves, only the connector housing.
9. Disconnect Temperature Sensor (if separate): Some models have a separate temperature sensor (thermistor) that plugs into the damper assembly or mounts nearby. If present, disconnect the sensor connector and note its position for reinstallation.
10. Remove Mounting Hardware: The air damper assembly is secured with mounting screws, clips, or tabs (typically 2-4 fasteners). Remove all mounting screws. Keep these screws—you'll need them for reinstallation.
11. Release Mounting Tabs (if applicable): Some damper assemblies have plastic tabs that snap into slots in the refrigerator liner. Gently press or squeeze the tabs while pulling the damper forward to release them.
12. Remove Old Damper: Once all connections and mounting hardware are removed, carefully pull the old air damper assembly straight out from the mounting location. Maneuver it out of the refrigerator compartment.
13. Inspect Air Duct: With the damper removed, look into the air duct opening. Check for ice buildup, frost, or obstructions that would restrict airflow. If ice is present, it indicates a defrost system problem or air leak that should be addressed.
14. Clean Mounting Area: Wipe down the damper mounting area, air duct opening, and surrounding surfaces. Remove any frost, ice, or debris. A clean installation area ensures proper damper operation and seal.
15. Inspect Old Damper: Examine the old damper for visible damage: broken damper door, stripped gears in the motor, cracked housing, or damaged sensor. Manually try to move the damper door—it should move smoothly with slight resistance. This helps confirm the diagnosis.
16. Prepare New Damper: Remove the new air damper assembly from its packaging. Verify it matches the old damper in size, mounting hole positions, wire connector type, and damper door design. Handle carefully—avoid dropping or impacting the assembly.
17. Test New Damper Operation (Optional): Before installation, you can bench-test the new damper by temporarily connecting power and the wire harness to verify the motor operates and the door opens/closes. This confirms the part is functional before installation.
18. Position New Damper: Carefully position the new air damper assembly into the mounting location. Align the damper with the air duct opening and ensure mounting holes or tabs align with the refrigerator mounting points.
19. Engage Mounting Tabs (if applicable): If the damper has snap-in tabs, press the assembly firmly into place until the tabs click into their slots. Ensure the damper is fully seated and flush with the surrounding surface.
20. Install Mounting Screws: Secure the damper with mounting screws. Tighten screws firmly but do not overtighten—excessive force can crack the plastic housing or strip the mounting holes.
21. Reconnect Temperature Sensor (if separate): If your model has a separate temperature sensor, reconnect the sensor connector and position the sensor in its original location (typically clipped to the damper housing or inserted into a mounting hole).
22. Reconnect Wire Harness: Plug the wire harness connector back onto the air damper assembly. Push the connector straight on until you hear or feel a click. Verify the connection is fully seated and locked.
23. Verify Damper Door Movement: Before reinstalling the cover, manually check that the damper door can move freely. Gently push the door open and closed—it should move smoothly without binding or sticking.
24. Reinstall Air Damper Cover: Position the air damper cover back over the damper assembly. Align any tabs or clips with their slots. Ensure the cover sits flush against the refrigerator liner.
25. Install Cover Screws: Secure the air damper cover with all mounting screws. Tighten screws evenly to ensure a proper seal around the cover.
26. Reinstall Refrigerator Shelves: Replace the top refrigerator shelf or shelves in their original positions.
27. Restore Power: Plug the refrigerator back into the electrical outlet or turn on the circuit breaker.
28. Monitor Initial Operation: Listen for the air damper motor to operate. You may hear a brief motor sound (2-5 seconds) as the damper adjusts position. This is normal during initialization.
29. Test Damper Operation: Set the refrigerator temperature control to a colder setting. Within a few minutes, you should hear the damper motor operate and feel cold air flowing from the damper vents into the fresh food compartment.
30. Verify Airflow: Place your hand near the air damper vents (with the cover installed). You should feel cold air flowing when the damper is open. The airflow should stop when the damper closes.
31. Check for Unusual Noises: Listen for any clicking, buzzing, grinding, or rattling noises from the damper area. The damper motor should operate quietly—only a brief, soft motor sound should be audible during operation.
32. Monitor Temperatures: Use a refrigerator thermometer to monitor fresh food compartment temperature over the next 24 hours. Temperature should stabilize at 37°F (±3°F). Adjust the temperature control if needed.
33. Verify Temperature Control: Over the next 24-48 hours, verify that:Fresh food compartment maintains consistent temperatureNo temperature fluctuations or warm spotsFreezer maintains 0°F (±5°F)Damper opens and closes as needed to maintain temperatureNo frost buildup around damper area
34. Reload Food: Once temperatures stabilize (typically 4-8 hours), reload food items into the refrigerator.

Test the damper motor and thermistor before replacing the entire assembly. The air damper assembly includes multiple components: the motor, damper door, housing, and temperature sensor (thermistor). Often only one component fails, but the entire assembly must be replaced because parts aren't sold separately. Before ordering a $100+ damper assembly, test the thermistor for proper resistance (should read approximately 10,000-15,000 ohms at 70°F, varying with temperature). Also test for voltage at the damper motor connector when the refrigerator calls for cooling (typically 12V DC or 120V AC depending on model). If the thermistor tests bad, the problem may be the sensor, not the damper motor. However, since thermistors are often integrated into the damper assembly, you'll still need to replace the entire unit.

Check for ice buildup in the air duct before replacing the damper. An estimated 30% of "damper failures" are actually caused by ice buildup in the air duct that prevents the damper door from opening or closing properly. Before ordering a replacement damper, remove the damper cover and inspect the air duct for frost or ice. If ice is present, the problem is likely a defrost system failure (bad defrost heater, thermostat, or timer) or an air leak allowing warm, moist air into the duct. Melt the ice with a hair dryer, test the damper operation, and if it works properly, diagnose and repair the defrost system or air leak. Installing a new damper without fixing ice buildup will cause the new damper to fail immediately.

Verify the main control board is sending signals to the damper. If your new damper doesn't operate after installation, the problem may be the main control board, not the damper. The control board sends signals to open/close the damper based on temperature readings from the thermistor. A failed relay or damaged circuit on the control board prevents damper operation. Before assuming the new damper is defective, test for voltage at the damper connector when the refrigerator should be calling for cooling. No voltage means the control board is the problem, not the damper.

Listen for damper operation during normal cycles. A working air damper opens and closes multiple times per day as the refrigerator maintains temperature. You should hear a brief motor sound (2-5 seconds) from the refrigerator ceiling when the damper operates. If you never hear the damper motor, either the damper motor is failed, the control board isn't sending signals, or the thermistor isn't reading temperature correctly. Listening for damper operation helps diagnose whether the damper, control board, or thermistor is the problem.

Check door gaskets and door switch. Poor temperature control is often caused by a combination of failed air damper AND leaking door gaskets. Warm air infiltration through damaged gaskets causes the damper to work harder and fail sooner. While doing this repair, inspect all door gaskets for tears, gaps, or poor sealing. Also test the door switch—if it's faulty, the control board may not operate the damper correctly. These simple checks prevent repeat damper failures and improve overall refrigerator performance.

Damper position affects energy consumption. A damper stuck in the open position causes the fresh food compartment to overcool, wasting energy and potentially freezing food. A damper stuck closed causes the compressor to run continuously trying to cool the fresh food section, dramatically increasing energy consumption. If your electric bill has increased significantly, a failed air damper may be the cause. Replacing a failed damper can reduce energy consumption by 20-30% and save $10-20 per month on electricity.

Clean the air vents and ensure proper airflow. Air dampers work best when air can flow freely through the refrigerator. Blocked air vents (from overpacking shelves or placing items directly against vents) restrict airflow and cause the damper to cycle excessively, leading to premature failure. After installing the new damper, ensure all air vents are clear and unobstructed. Leave at least 2 inches of clearance around all vents for optimal airflow. This simple habit extends damper life from 5 years to 10+ years.

• Fresh food section too warm (freezer works fine)
• Fresh food section too cold (food freezing)
• Temperature fluctuations in refrigerator compartment
• Refrigerator not cooling but freezer works
• Inconsistent cooling (some areas warm, others cold)
• Frost or ice buildup around air damper vents
• Unusual clicking or buzzing noises from refrigerator ceiling
• Damper stuck in open position (refrigerator too cold)
• Damper stuck in closed position (refrigerator too warm)
• Damper door not opening or closing
• Damper motor not operating
• Temperature control not responding properly
• Refrigerator runs continuously trying to cool
• Fresh food section warms up overnight
• Visible damage to damper door or housing
• Broken damper motor or stripped gears