Part number WG02F05778 replaces WB24T10148, WB24T10162, WG02F05780

GE (General Electric)

JB705DT1BB, JB705DT2BB, JB705DT3BB, JB705ED1ES, JB705ST1SS, JB705ST2SS, JB705ST3SS, JB705ST4SS, JB705TT1CC, JB705TT1WW, JB705TT2CC, JB705TT2WW, JB705TT3CC, JB705TT3WW, JB710DT2BB, JB710DT3BB, JB710ED1ES, JB710ST1SS, JB710ST2SS, JB710ST3SS, JB710ST4SS, JB710TT1WW, JB710TT2WW, JB710TT3WW, JB745DF1BB, JB745DF1WW, JB745DF2BB, JB745DF2WW, JB745DF3BB, JB745DF3WW, JB745EF1ES, JB745EF2ES, JB745EF3ES, JB745SF1SS, JB745SF2SS, JB745SF3SS, JB750DF1BB, JB750DF1CC, JB750DF1WW, JB750DF2BB, JB750DF2CC, JB750DF2WW, JB750DF3BB, JB750DF3CC, JB750DF3WW, JB750DF4BB, JB750DF4CC, JB750DF4WW, JB750EF1ES

1. Turn off power to the range – Switch off the circuit breaker for the range (typically 40–50 amp double breaker). Verify power is off by confirming no burners, display, clock, or lights work.
2. Pull range away from wall – Give yourself room to work behind and around the unit.
3. Remove control knobs – Pull the control knobs straight off the shafts. Note or photograph which knob goes to which burner position for correct reinstallation.
4. Remove the control panel back cover:Access the back of the control panel by removing screws from the rear panel at the top back of the range.Some models require lifting the cooktop first (release clips at front corners with a putty knife, prop up with support rod).On some models, the control panel tilts forward after removing mounting screws at the top edges.
5. Locate the faulty infinite switch – Identify the switch that corresponds to the non-working burner. Switches are mounted behind the control panel with shafts extending through for the knobs. Match the burner position to the switch position.
6. Take a photo of wiring – Document all wire connections to the switch before disconnecting. Label wires with tape if helpful — this is critical for correct reinstallation.
7. Disconnect wires from the switch – Pull the spade connectors straight off the switch terminals. Grip the metal connector firmly, not the wires themselves. If connectors are melted, corroded, or damaged, replace them with new high-temperature crimp-on spade connectors.
8. Remove the mounting bracket screws – Remove the screws (usually 2) securing the switch to the control panel mounting bracket.
9. Remove the old switch – Slide or pull the failed infinite switch out of its mounting position.
10. Compare old and new switches – Verify the new WG02F05778 switch has the same terminal configuration, shaft style, and mounting hole pattern as the old one before proceeding.
11. Install the new switch:Position the new switch with the shaft extending through the control panel hole.Secure with mounting screws — snug but do not overtighten.
12. Reconnect wires – Attach each wire connector to the correct terminal on the new switch, matching your photo exactly. Terminals are typically labeled:H1, H2 — connect to the heating elementL1, L2 — connect to the 240V power supply linesP — connects to the pilot/indicator light circuitEnsure firm, fully-seated connections — loose connections cause arcing and premature failure.
13. Inspect adjacent connections – While the panel is open, check wire connections on nearby switches for signs of heat damage, discoloration, melting, or corrosion. Address any issues found.
14. Reassemble control panel – Replace the back cover and secure with screws. Lower cooktop if raised.
15. Reinstall control knobs – Push the knobs onto the switch shafts, aligning the D-shape or splines correctly. Knobs should sit flush against the panel and turn smoothly with positive detents.
16. Restore power – Turn the circuit breaker back on.
17. Test the burner thoroughly:Turn the repaired burner to LOW — element should warm gradually and cycle on/off (you may hear faint clicking as it cycles).Turn to MEDIUM — element should be hotter with longer on-cycles.Turn to HIGH — element should glow red/orange continuously.Verify indicator light illuminates when burner is on (if equipped).Turn to OFF — element should stop glowing and indicator light should turn off within a few seconds.Let element cool and verify it stays off.

Always test the burner element before replacing the switch. The easiest test: swap the suspect element with a known-working element from another burner position. If the element works in the other position, the element is good and the switch is the problem. You can also test element continuity with a multimeter — a good element reads 20–50 ohms depending on wattage; an open reading (OL) means the element is burned out. When reconnecting wires, terminal identification is critical for proper operation: H1/H2 connect to the heating element, L1/L2 connect to the 240V power supply lines, and P connects to the pilot/indicator light circuit. Swapping H and L connections can result in no heat or constant full heat. If you find melted or discolored wire connectors on the old switch, the connection was arcing due to looseness or corrosion — cut back the damaged wire 1/2" and crimp on a new high-temperature spade connector rated for range use. This prevents the same failure on your new switch. If the switch failed catastrophically (burn marks, melted housing), also inspect the element for signs of a short circuit that may have caused the switch to fail. GE infinite switches are generally interchangeable across many models, but always verify the amperage rating and terminal configuration match your original switch.