233D2274P002, 290D1580P001, WG04F12454, WG04A04607, WH01X27954, WH01X24114, WH01X26114, WH08X31577, WW01F01798

GE, General Electric, Westinghouse, Monogram, Café, Moffat, Profile, Sears, McClary, Hotpoint, Kenmore

GTW220BMK0WW, GTW220BMK1WW, GTW330BMK0WW, GTW460BMK0WW, GTW465BMK0WS, GTW485BMK0WS, GTW680BMK0DG, GTW680BMK0WS, MTW200BMK0WW, GTW220BMM1WW, GTW223BMR0WW, GTW302BMP0WW, GTW302BMP1WW, GTW330BMK1WW, GTW330BMM1WW, GTW331BMR0WS, GTW451BMR0WS, GTW460BMK1WW, GTW460BMM0WW, GTW460BMM1WW, GTW465BMK1WS, GTW465BMM0WS, GTW465BMM1WS, GTW470BMM0DG, GTW470BMM1DG, GTW485BMK1WS, GTW485BMM0WS, GTW485BMM1WS, GTW490BMR0WS, GTW495DMN0WS, GTW495DMN1WS, 233D2274P002

Professional Repair Time: 15-20 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 20-30 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Easy to Moderate (1.5/5) — Requires basic tools, basic mechanical skill, attention to electrical and mechanical connections

1. Turn off power to the washer at the circuit breaker to ensure complete power disconnection.
2. Unplug the washer from the wall outlet for additional safety.
3. Verify power is off by attempting to turn on the washer. The washer should not respond.
4. Turn off the water supply to the washer at the shutoff valves (hot and cold water lines).
5. Open the washer lid fully to access the interior.
6. Take multiple photos of the lid lock assembly location, mounting, electrical connections, and mechanical linkage before disassembly. Document from multiple angles. This is absolutely critical for proper reassembly.
7. Locate the lid lock assembly mounted on the inside edge of the washer tub or frame (typically on the left or right side near the lid hinge).
8. Locate the mechanical linkage that connects the lid lock assembly to the lid (typically a hook or latch that engages with the lid).
9. Take detailed photos of all connections to the lid lock assembly before disconnecting: electrical connector, mounting bracket, and mechanical linkage.
10. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lid lock assembly by pressing the locking tab and pulling the connector straight off. Do not pull on the wires—grasp the connector body.
11. If the assembly is hardwired (no connector), note the wire colors and terminal positions before disconnecting. Label each wire with masking tape.
12. Carefully disconnect the wires from the assembly terminals. Use masking tape to label each wire indicating its original terminal position.
13. Locate the mechanical linkage that connects the lid lock assembly to the lid.
14. Disconnect the mechanical linkage by removing the pin or bolt that secures it to the lid lock assembly. The linkage may be a hook, rod, or lever that engages with the lid latch.
15. Locate the lid lock assembly mounting bracket that secures the assembly to the washer frame or tub (typically 2-3 mounting screws or bolts).
16. Remove the mounting screws or bolts using a Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, or socket wrench.
17. Carefully remove the old lid lock assembly from the washer. Support the assembly as you remove the last mounting fastener to prevent it from falling.
18. Place the old lid lock assembly on a clean work surface with adequate space for inspection.
19. Inspect the old assembly for visible damage such as cracked housing, broken solenoid, damaged latch, corrosion, or discoloration. This confirms the diagnosis.
20. Inspect the mechanical linkage for wear, damage, or breakage. Replace the linkage if it is damaged or bent.
21. Inspect the lid lock assembly mounting location on the washer frame or tub for damage, corrosion, or debris. Clean the mounting area if necessary using a dry cloth.
22. Unpack the new WW01L01660 lid lock assembly from its packaging. Handle carefully to avoid damaging the assembly or connections.
23. Verify the assembly specifications match the old assembly: solenoid-operated locking mechanism, quick release lever or button, spring-loaded latch, electrical terminals, mounting bracket design.
24. Compare the new assembly to the old one to verify the dimensions, mounting holes, electrical connector type, and overall appearance match. Ensure you have the correct replacement part.
25. Inspect the new lid lock assembly for any damage or defects before installation. The housing should be intact with no cracks or damage, and the latch should move freely.
26. Position the new lid lock assembly on the washer frame or tub, aligning the mounting holes with the bracket or frame mounting points.
27. Install the mounting screws or bolts to secure the assembly to the washer frame or tub. Tighten gently but firmly—do not overtighten, which can crack the assembly housing.
28. Verify the assembly is securely mounted and does not wobble or shift when gently pressed.
29. Reconnect the mechanical linkage by inserting the pin or bolt through the linkage and into the lid lock assembly. The linkage should engage smoothly with the lid latch.
30. Verify the mechanical linkage is secure and moves freely without binding or resistance.
31. Reconnect the electrical connector to the lid lock assembly by pushing the connector straight onto the assembly terminals until it clicks into place (if the original assembly had a connector).
32. If the assembly is hardwired, reconnect the wires to the correct terminals using your labeled wires. Match each wire to its original terminal position.
33. Verify all electrical connections are secure by gently tugging on each wire or connector. Wires should not pull off—they should be firmly seated.
34. Close the washer lid fully.
35. Restore power at the circuit breaker and plug in the washer.
36. Turn on the water supply at the shutoff valves.
37. Test the new lid lock assembly by running a short wash cycle (empty washer, no clothes).
38. Monitor the washer during the cycle. Verify the lid locks when the cycle starts.
39. Attempt to open the lid during the wash cycle. The lid should not open—it should be locked securely.
40. Allow the cycle to complete and observe the lid unlock when the cycle finishes.
41. Attempt to open the lid after the cycle completes. The lid should open easily with the quick release mechanism.
42. Stop the cycle and verify the lid lock is operating properly.
43. Run a complete wash cycle (empty washer, no clothes) to verify the lid lock operates properly throughout the entire cycle.
44. Verify the lid locks at the start of the cycle and unlocks at the end.
45. Listen for unusual noises such as clicking or buzzing from the lid lock area. The solenoid should activate quietly without excessive noise.
46. Verify no water is leaking from the lid lock area during the wash cycle.
47. Monitor the washer for 3-5 complete wash cycles to ensure the lid lock operates properly without issues.

Safety Notes: Always turn off power at the circuit breaker and unplug the washer before working on it to prevent electrical shock. Turn off the water supply to prevent water damage. Do not attempt to force the lid open if it is locked—allow the cycle to complete and the lid lock to unlock automatically. This repair requires basic tools (Phillips screwdriver, nut driver, socket wrench) and basic mechanical skill—most homeowners can complete this repair successfully with proper precautions.

1. Test the old lid lock solenoid with a multimeter to confirm failure before ordering. Use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) mode to test the solenoid coil. A functioning solenoid should show resistance between 100-500 ohms (varies by model). Infinite resistance (no continuity) indicates a burned-out solenoid. Zero resistance indicates a short circuit. Testing prevents unnecessary lid lock replacement.
2. Document all connections with detailed photos before disconnecting. Take clear photos of the electrical connector orientation, wire colors, terminal positions, and mechanical linkage connection points before removing the old assembly. This documentation prevents wiring errors and ensures correct mechanical operation.
3. Verify the mechanical linkage is not bent or damaged. A bent or damaged linkage can prevent proper locking or unlocking even with a new lid lock assembly. Inspect the linkage carefully and replace it if it is bent, cracked, or damaged. Straightening a bent linkage may cause it to break during operation.
4. Check the lid latch on the lid itself for wear or damage. The lid latch must be in good condition for the lid lock assembly to function properly. If the lid latch is worn, cracked, or broken, the new lid lock assembly may not lock or unlock properly. Replace the lid latch if it is damaged.
5. The solenoid should activate with an audible click when the cycle starts. After installing the new lid lock assembly, listen for a distinct clicking sound when the washer starts. If you do not hear a click, the solenoid may not be activating properly. Verify the electrical connections and test the control board before concluding the repair is complete.
6. Verify the quick release mechanism operates smoothly without binding. After installing the new lid lock assembly, test the quick release button or lever several times to ensure it moves freely and releases the lid latch consistently. If the quick release mechanism binds or sticks, verify the mounting screws are not overtightened and the mechanical linkage is properly aligned.
7. The lid lock assembly works in conjunction with the washer control board. The control board sends electrical signals to the solenoid to lock and unlock the lid at appropriate times during the wash cycle. If the lid lock still does not operate properly after replacement, the control board may be faulty. Test the control board output voltage before ordering a replacement lid lock to avoid unnecessary replacement.
8. Never force the lid open when it is locked. Forcing the lid open can damage the lid lock assembly, mechanical linkage, or lid latch, requiring additional repairs. If the lid remains locked after the cycle completes, turn off power at the circuit breaker for 30 seconds to reset the control board, then restore power. This often releases the lid lock.
9. The lid lock is a safety feature required by law. Modern top-load washers are required to have lid locks that prevent the lid from opening during the spin cycle when the basket is rotating at high speed. Disabling or bypassing the lid lock is dangerous and violates safety regulations. Always replace a faulty lid lock promptly to maintain safe washer operation.
10. This repair is cost-effective compared to washer replacement. The cost of lid lock replacement ($50-90) is far less than the cost of a new washer ($600-1,200+). Replace the lid lock promptly when failure is detected to prevent the need for expensive washer replacement and to restore safe, reliable operation.

• Lid refusing to lock during wash cycle (allowing lid to open mid-cycle)
• Lid refusing to unlock at end of cycle (trapping user)
• Lid locking but not releasing with quick release button
• Unusual clicking or buzzing sounds from lid lock area
• Lid lock not responding to electrical signals
• Water leaking from lid lock area
• Lid lock mechanism appearing visibly damaged or broken
• Lid opening unexpectedly during wash cycle
• Lid not opening after cycle completes
• Quick release button not working
• Solenoid not activating
• Mechanical linkage stuck or binding