Idler Pulley Assembly, Belt Tensioner, Tension Pulley, Idler Arm Assembly, Belt Idler, Pulley and Spring Assembly

4561EL3002A, 4561EL3002B, 1267530, AP4438243, PS3523033, AH3523033, EA3523033

LG, Kenmore

LGDLE0332W, DLE0442G, DLE0442W, DLE1310W, DLE2301R, DLE2301W, DLE2512W, DLE2514W, DLE2515S, DLE2516W, DLE3733D, DLE3733S, DLE3733U, DLE3733W, DLE3777W, DLE3786W, DLE3788W, DLE3860W, DLE3875W, DLE3876W, DLE3885C, DLE3885W, DLE3886W, DLE3890W, DLE3900W, DLE4801W, DLE4870W, DLE4970W, DLE5001W, DLE5002W, DLE5911WE, DLE5955G, DLE5955W, DLE5977B, DLE5977SM, DLE5977W, DLE5988B, DLE5988W, DLE6942W, DLE7050W, DLE7070W, DLE7100W, DLE7150W, DLE7177RM, DLE7177WM, DLE7200VE, DLE7200WE, DLE7300VE, DLE7300WE, DLE8377NM, DLE8377WM, DLE9577SM, DLE9577WM, DLEX0001TM, DLEX2450R, DLEX2501R, DLEX2501V, DLEX2501W, DLEX2550R, DLEX2550W, DLEX2650R, DLEX2650V, DLEX2650W, DLEX2655V, DLEX2801L, DLEX2801R, DLEX2801W, DLEX2901V, DLEX2901W, DLEX3001P, DLEX3001R, DLEX3001W, DLEX3070R, DLEX3070V, DLEX3070W, DLEX3250R, DLEX3250V, DLEX3250W, DLEX3360R, DLEX3360V, DLEX3360W, DLEX3370R, DLEX3370V, DLEX3370W, DLEX3470V, DLEX3470W, DLEX3550V, DLEX3550W, DLEX3570V, DLEX3570W, DLEX3650V, DLEX3650W, DLEX3670V, DLEX3670W, DLEX3700V, DLEX3700W, DLEX3875V, DLEX3875W, DLEX3885C, DLEX3885W, DLEX3900B, DLEX3900W, DLEX4000B, DLEX4000W, DLEX4070V, DLEX4070W, DLEX4200V, DLEX4200W, DLEX4270V, DLEX4270W, DLEX4370K, DLEX4370W, DLEX4500B, DLEX4500W, DLEX4970W, DLEX5000V, DLEX5000W, DLEX5001V, DLEX5001W, DLEX5170V, DLEX5170W, DLEX5680V, DLEX5680W, DLEX5780VE, DLEX5780WE, DLEX5870V, DLEX5870W, DLEX5900B, DLEX5900W, DLEX6001V, DLEX6001W, DLEX7177RM, DLEX7177WM, DLEX7200VE, DLEX7200WE, DLEX7300VE, DLEX7300WE, DLEX7600KE, DLEX7600VE, DLEX7600WE, DLEX7700KE, DLEX7700VE, DLEX7700WE, DLEX7800VE, DLEX7800WE, DLEX8000V, DLEX8000W, DLEX8100V, DLEX8100W, DLEX8377NM, DLEX8377WM, DLEX9000V, DLEX9000W, DLGX0002TM, DLGX2451R, DLGX2502R, DLGX2502V, DLGX2502W, DLGX2551R, DLGX2551W, DLGX2651R, DLGX2651V, DLGX2651W, DLGX2656V, DLGX2802L, DLGX2802W, DLGX2902V, DLGX2902W, DLGX3002P, DLGX3002R, DLGX3002W, DLGX3071R, DLGX3071V, DLGX3071W, DLGX3251R, DLGX3251V, DLGX3251W, DLGX3361R, DLGX3361V, DLGX3361W, DLGX3371R, DLGX3371V, DLGX3371W, DLGX3471V, DLGX3471W, DLGX3551V, DLGX3551W, DLGX3571V, DLGX3571W, DLGX3651V, DLGX3651W, DLGX3671V, DLGX3671W, DLGX3701V, DLGX3701W, DLGX3876V, DLGX3876W, DLGX3886C, DLGX3886W, DLGX3901B, DLGX3901W, DLGX4001B, DLGX4001W, DLGX4071V, DLGX4071W, DLGX4201V, DLGX4201W, DLGX4271V, DLGX4271W, DLGX4371K, DLGX4371W, DLGX4501B, DLGX4501W, DLGX4971W, DLGX5001V, DLGX5001W, DLGX5002V, DLGX5002W, DLGX5171V, DLGX5171W, DLGX5681V, DLGX5681W, DLGX5781VE, DLGX5781WE, DLGX5871V, DLGX5871W, DLGX5901B, DLGX5901W, DLGX6002V, DLGX6002W, DLGX7188RM, DLGX7188WM, DLGX7201VE, DLGX7201WE, DLGX7301VE, DLGX7301WE, DLGX7601KE, DLGX7601VE, DLGX7601WE, DLGX7701KE, DLGX7701VE, DLGX7701WE, DLGX7801VE, DLGX7801WE, DLGX8001V, DLGX8001W, DLGX8101V, DLGX8101W, DLGX8388NM, DLGX8388WM, DLGX9001V, DLGX9001W, RN1306AT, RN1306BT, RN1316AS, RN1316BS, RV1306AT, RV1306BT, RV1316AS, RV1316BS

Kenmore79681472210, 79681473210, 79681479210, 79681482210, 79681483210, 79681489210, 79682172210, 79682173210, 79682179210, 79682182210, 79682183210, 79682189210, 79683172210, 79683173210, 79683179210, 79683182210, 79683183210, 79683189210, 79684172210, 79684173210, 79684179210, 79684182210, 79684183210, 79684189210, 79685172210, 79685173210, 79685179210, 79685182210, 79685183210, 79685189210, 79686172210, 79686173210, 79686179210, 79686182210, 79686183210, 79686189210, 79687172210, 79687173210, 79687179210, 79687182210, 79687183210, 79687189210

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working inside the dryer cabinet with moving parts and electrical components. Always unplug the dryer and turn off the gas supply (for gas dryers) before beginning work to prevent electrical shock, accidental motor startup, and gas leaks. If uncomfortable with this repair, hire a qualified technician.TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, putty knife or panel tool, 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch nut driver or socket set, adjustable pliers, flashlight, work gloves.

1. Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet to ensure complete power disconnection. CRITICAL: Never work on the dryer while it's plugged in.
2. For gas dryers: Turn off the gas supply at the shutoff valve behind the dryer (turn valve perpendicular to gas line to close).
3. Move the dryer away from the wall to provide working space and access to the rear panel.
4. Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the rear of the dryer by loosening the clamp with a screwdriver or pliers.
5. Take multiple photos of the dryer interior, belt routing, idler pulley position, and spring attachment before disassembly. CRITICAL: Belt routing and idler pulley orientation must be exact for proper operation.
6. Remove the lint filter from the lint trap and set aside.
7. Remove the top panel: Insert a putty knife between the top and front panel near the corners (approximately 3 inches from each side), push up to release the spring clips, and lift the top panel up and back. Some models have screws at the rear—remove if present. Prop the top panel open or remove completely.
8. Disconnect the door switch wire connector (if accessible from the front) by pulling the connector apart. This prevents wire damage during front panel removal.
9. Remove the front panel: Remove the screws securing the front panel to the dryer cabinet (typically 2-4 screws at the top corners inside the lint trap opening and 2-4 screws at the bottom corners). Carefully lift the front panel up and forward to disengage it from the cabinet. Set aside.
10. Locate the idler pulley assembly in the base of the dryer (typically on the right side or center, between the motor and drum, with the drive belt looped around it).
11. Take detailed close-up photos of the idler pulley assembly from multiple angles, showing: belt routing around the pulley, spring attachment point on the bracket and dryer frame, pulley orientation, and mounting bolt location.
12. Release belt tension by pushing the idler pulley arm toward the motor to create slack in the belt. This compresses the spring and relieves tension.
13. While holding the idler pulley toward the motor, slip the drive belt off the motor pulley to completely release tension. The idler pulley arm will now move freely.
14. Disconnect the tension spring from its mounting point. Note: Springs are under tension—control the spring carefully as you disconnect it to prevent injury. The spring typically hooks onto the idler pulley bracket and a mounting point on the dryer frame or base.
15. Remove the idler pulley mounting bolt using a nut driver or socket (typically 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch). The mounting bolt secures the idler pulley bracket to the dryer base or motor mounting plate.
16. Carefully remove the old idler pulley assembly from the dryer, including the pulley wheel, bracket, spring, and any washers or spacers. Keep all hardware organized.
17. Inspect the old idler pulley for wear indicators: rough or seized bearing (spin the pulley by hand—should rotate smoothly), worn or grooved pulley wheel surface, cracked or broken mounting bracket, weak or broken tension spring, or excessive play in the bearing. This confirms the diagnosis.
18. Test the old pulley bearing by spinning the pulley wheel by hand. Should rotate smoothly and freely with minimal resistance. Rough, grinding, squealing, or seized rotation = failed bearing.
19. Inspect the old tension spring for fatigue, stretching, or breakage. A weak spring cannot maintain proper belt tension and causes belt slipping.
20. Inspect the drive belt for wear, cracks, fraying, glazing (shiny surface), or damage from the worn pulley. Replace the belt if damaged—a worn idler pulley often damages the belt.
21. Clean the idler pulley mounting area on the dryer base, removing lint, dust, and debris.
22. Unpack the new 4561EL3002A idler pulley assembly from its packaging. The assembly includes the pulley wheel with bearing, mounting bracket, tension spring, and mounting hardware.
23. Compare the new idler pulley assembly to the old one to verify dimensions, pulley diameter, bracket design, spring length and tension, mounting bolt configuration, and overall design match.
24. Inspect the new idler pulley for any shipping damage before installation. Spin the pulley wheel by hand—should rotate smoothly and freely with no resistance, noise, or wobble.
25. Test the new tension spring by stretching it slightly—should have strong, consistent resistance and return to original length when released.
26. Position the new idler pulley assembly in the mounting location on the dryer base or motor mounting plate. The pulley wheel should be oriented to contact the drive belt in the correct position per your photos.
27. Install the mounting bolt through the idler pulley bracket and into the mounting hole. Install any washers or spacers in the correct order per your photos. Important: Do not fully tighten yet—leave slightly loose to allow bracket movement for spring attachment.
28. Attach the tension spring to the idler pulley bracket. Hook one end of the spring onto the bracket mounting point (typically a hole or hook in the bracket).
29. Stretch the spring and attach the other end to the dryer frame mounting point. Caution: Springs are under high tension—use pliers to grip the spring hook and pull it to the mounting point. Control the spring carefully to prevent injury or damage.
30. Verify the spring is securely attached at both ends and provides proper tension to pull the idler pulley arm away from the motor.
31. Tighten the idler pulley mounting bolt firmly but not excessively. The bracket must be able to pivot freely on the mounting bolt while being securely attached. Hand-tight plus 1/4 turn is sufficient.
32. Test the idler pulley movement by manually pushing the pulley arm toward the motor and releasing. The spring should pull the arm back to the tensioned position smoothly. The pulley wheel should spin freely on its bearing.
33. Reinstall the drive belt on the drum by looping it around the drum with the ribbed side (if applicable) facing inward toward the drum surface.
34. Route the drive belt according to your detailed photos: loop it around the idler pulley wheel, then around the motor pulley. CRITICAL: Belt routing must be exact. Typical routing is: drum → under idler pulley → around motor pulley.
35. Push the idler pulley arm toward the motor to create slack in the belt, slip the belt onto the motor pulley, then release the idler pulley arm. The spring tension will automatically tension the belt.
36. Verify proper belt routing by checking that: the belt sits centered on all pulleys (drum, idler, motor), the belt is not twisted, the idler pulley contacts the smooth (back) side of the belt (not the ribbed side), and the belt has proper tension.
37. Check belt tension by pressing on the belt between the idler pulley and motor pulley—should deflect approximately 1/2 inch with moderate pressure. The spring provides automatic tension adjustment.
38. Manually rotate the drum several complete revolutions by hand to verify smooth operation. The drum should rotate freely without binding, and the idler pulley should rotate smoothly as the belt moves across it.
39. Listen for any noise from the idler pulley during manual drum rotation—should be completely silent. Any squealing, grinding, or clicking indicates a problem.
40. Verify the idler pulley wheel spins freely as the belt moves across it during drum rotation.
41. Reinstall the front panel by positioning it and engaging the bottom tabs, then installing the mounting screws at the top and bottom. Tighten firmly.
42. Reconnect the door switch wire connector (if disconnected earlier) by pushing the connector together until it clicks.
43. Lower the top panel back into position and push down firmly at the front corners until the spring clips engage with clicking sounds.
44. Reinstall the lint filter in the lint trap.
45. Reconnect the dryer vent hose to the rear of the dryer and secure with the clamp. Ensure the connection is tight with no gaps.
46. Move the dryer back to its installation location.
47. For gas dryers: Turn on the gas supply by turning the shutoff valve parallel to the gas line. Check for gas leaks at all connections using soapy water—bubbles indicate leaks.
48. Restore electrical power by plugging in the dryer.
49. Run a test cycle (air fluff or timed dry, no heat, 10 minutes, no clothes) to verify proper operation.
50. Listen carefully during the test cycle for smooth, quiet operation with no squealing, grinding, or unusual noises from the idler pulley. The new pulley should operate silently.
51. Verify the drum rotates smoothly without hesitation, slipping, or vibration.
52. Run a second test cycle (normal dry cycle with heat, small load of towels) to verify full operation under load.
53. Monitor the dryer during the loaded test cycle for smooth operation, proper tumbling action, consistent drum speed, and no belt slipping or noise.
54. If the dryer operates smoothly with quiet idler pulley operation, consistent drum rotation, and no belt slipping or noise, the repair is complete.

Safety Notes: Always unplug the dryer and turn off gas supply before working inside the cabinet. Springs are under high tension—control carefully during disconnection and installation to prevent injury. Take extensive photos of belt routing and idler pulley orientation before disassembly. Verify smooth pulley rotation by hand before closing up. Do not overtighten the mounting bolt—bracket must pivot freely. Test operation thoroughly with both empty and loaded cycles. This repair requires moderate mechanical skills and typically takes 45-60 minutes for DIY.

1. Squealing noise during dryer operation is the most common symptom of idler pulley failure, but verify the noise source before replacing—could be drum rollers, motor bearings, or blower wheel. To diagnose: unplug the dryer, remove the front panel, manually rotate the drum slowly while listening carefully. If the idler pulley bearing is failed, you'll hear squealing or grinding as the pulley rotates. If the drum rotates silently by hand but squeals when the motor runs, the idler pulley bearing is likely the culprit.
2. The tension spring is just as important as the pulley wheel—a weak or broken spring causes belt slipping even with a new pulley. The spring provides 15-25 pounds of tension force that keeps the belt tight against all pulleys. Spring fatigue from age and repeated cycling reduces tension force, allowing the belt to slip under load. If your old idler pulley assembly has a weak or stretched spring, the new assembly with a fresh spring will restore proper tension and eliminate slipping.
3. Always inspect and replace the drive belt when replacing the idler pulley—a worn pulley often damages the belt, and a damaged belt will destroy the new pulley. Worn idler pulley wheels create grooves or rough spots that cut into the belt, causing fraying, cracking, or premature failure. Installing a new pulley with a damaged belt results in rapid pulley wear and repeat failure. If the belt shows any signs of damage (cracks, fraying, glazing, grooves), replace it along with the idler pulley.
4. The idler pulley mounting bolt must be tight enough to secure the bracket but loose enough to allow free pivoting—overtightening prevents proper spring-loaded movement. The idler pulley bracket must pivot freely on the mounting bolt to allow the spring to maintain consistent belt tension as the belt stretches and contracts during operation. Overtightening the mounting bolt binds the bracket, prevents proper tensioning, and causes belt slipping. Hand-tight plus 1/4 turn is the correct torque.
5. Belt routing is critical—the idler pulley must contact the smooth (back) side of the belt, not the ribbed side. Most dryer belts have a ribbed inner surface (contacts drum) and smooth outer surface (contacts pulleys). The idler pulley and motor pulley should contact the smooth outer surface. If the belt is installed backwards or routed incorrectly, the idler pulley contacts the ribbed surface, causing rapid pulley wear, belt damage, and noise.
6. Lint buildup on the idler pulley bearing causes overheating and premature failure—clean lint from the dryer interior during idler pulley replacement. Lint accumulation around the idler pulley acts as insulation, preventing heat dissipation from the bearing and causing it to run hot and wear faster. During idler pulley replacement, thoroughly vacuum all lint from the dryer base, motor area, and blower housing. Clean the lint filter after every load and deep-clean the dryer interior annually.
7. If the new idler pulley squeals immediately after installation, the bearing may be defective, the mounting bolt may be overtightened, or the belt may be contaminated. New idler pulleys should operate silently from the first rotation. Immediate squealing indicates: defective bearing (return for replacement), overtightened mounting bolt preventing free pulley rotation (loosen slightly), or belt contamination from fabric softener or dryer sheets (clean belt with rubbing alcohol).
8. The idler pulley typically lasts 8-12 years with normal use, but can fail prematurely from overloading, lack of maintenance, or belt problems. Regularly overloading the dryer beyond capacity (more than 20-25 pounds dry weight) creates excessive belt tension that stresses the idler pulley bearing and spring, accelerating wear. Using a worn or damaged belt causes the idler pulley to work harder to maintain tension, shortening pulley life. Replace worn belts promptly to extend idler pulley life.
9. Spring attachment points must be secure—a disconnected spring causes immediate belt slipping and potential motor damage. The tension spring hooks onto mounting points on the idler pulley bracket and dryer frame. If either attachment point is damaged, corroded, or broken, the spring cannot maintain proper tension. Inspect both mounting points during installation and repair or reinforce if damaged. A disconnected spring during operation causes the belt to go slack, allowing it to slip off pulleys and potentially wrap around the motor shaft.
10. If the belt slips immediately after installing a new idler pulley, check for incorrect belt routing, weak spring tension, or seized drum rollers. A new idler pulley with proper spring tension should provide sufficient belt grip to prevent slipping under all normal loads. If slipping occurs, diagnose the root cause: incorrect belt routing (belt on wrong side of idler pulley or motor pulley), defective spring (weak tension), seized drum rollers creating excessive resistance (motor can't overcome friction), or overloading (too many clothes). Address the underlying cause rather than assuming the new pulley is defective.
11. The idler pulley bearing is sealed and maintenance-free—do not add grease or oil to the new pulley. Modern idler pulley bearings are sealed ball bearings or self-lubricating sleeve bearings that require no external lubrication. Adding grease or oil attracts lint and debris, causes the bearing to overheat, and actually shortens bearing life. Install the new pulley dry and it will provide 10+ years of quiet, maintenance-free operation.
12. Idler pulley failure can damage the drive belt, motor, and drum rollers if ignored—replace failed pulleys promptly. When the idler pulley bearing seizes, the belt can no longer move smoothly across the pulley, causing excessive friction, heat buildup, and belt damage. The motor works harder to overcome the seized pulley, potentially causing motor overload and failure. The increased belt tension from a seized pulley also accelerates drum roller wear. Squealing or grinding noises indicate imminent pulley failure—replace immediately to prevent collateral damage.