Lid Lock, Door Lock Switch, Lid Switch, Lock Assembly

W11414731, W11307244, W10619876, W10404050, W10253483, PS11755921, AP6022472, 8182634, 8181700

Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Crosley, Roper, Kenmore (verify by model)

Whirlpool: WTW5000DW0, WTW5000DW1, WTW5000DW2, WTW5100HW0, WTW5100HW1, WTW5105HW0, WTW6120HW0, WTW6120HC0, WTW7120HW0, WTW7120HC0

Maytag: MVW6230HW0, MVW6230HC0, MVW7230HW0, MVW7230HC0, MVW8230HW0, MVW8230HC0, MVWB765FW0, MVWB765FC0, MVWB835DW0, MVWB835DC0

Amana: NTW4516FW0, NTW4516FW1, NTW4516FW2, NTW4519JW0, NTW4605EW0, NTW4650YQ0, NTW4750YQ0, NTW4519FW0, NTW4605EW1, NTW4750YQ1

Kenmore: 110.28002791, 110.28002792, 110.28132791, 110.28132792, 110.29002791, 110.29132791, 110.29132792, 110.28132890, 110.29002890, 110.29132890

Note: This is a partial list. This lid lock is used in many Whirlpool-manufactured top-load washers built between 2011-2024. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering.

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Putty knife or paint scraper
• Work gloves
• Towel (to protect washer surface)

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet or turn off the circuit breaker. Never work on the washer with power connected.
2. Shut Off Water Supply: Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer (optional but recommended for safety).
3. Remove Dispenser Drawer (if applicable): Pull out the detergent/bleach/fabric softener dispenser drawer completely. Press the release tab and remove it from the washer.
4. Remove Top Panel: Locate the screws securing the top panel. These are typically located inside the dispenser drawer cavity (2 screws) or at the rear top corners of the washer cabinet. Remove these screws. Insert a putty knife between the top and front panel near the front corners to release the spring clips (typically 2 clips). Lift the top panel up and prop it open against the wall, or remove it completely by tilting it back and lifting off the hinges.
5. Locate Lid Lock Assembly: With the top panel open or removed, look down into the washer. The lid lock assembly is mounted on the top of the washer tub, directly beneath where the lid closes. It's a rectangular plastic housing (approximately 3" x 4") with a wire harness connector attached.
6. Disconnect Wire Harness: Locate the wire harness connector on the lid lock assembly. Press the release tab and carefully pull the connector apart. The connector may be tight—gently wiggle while pulling. Do not pull on the wires themselves, only the connector housing. Take a photo for reference.
7. Remove Lid Strike (if replacing): If your lid lock kit includes a new lid strike (the metal or plastic piece mounted on the underside of the lid that engages with the lock), you'll need to replace it. Open the lid and locate the strike on the underside. Remove the screws securing the strike to the lid (typically 2 screws). Remove the old strike and set aside.
8. Remove Mounting Screws: The lid lock assembly is secured to the top of the washer tub with mounting screws (typically 2-3 screws). Remove all mounting screws. Keep these screws—you may need to reuse them if the new lid lock doesn't include them.
9. Remove Old Lid Lock: Once the screws are removed, carefully lift the old lid lock assembly straight up and off the washer tub. Maneuver it out of the cabinet opening. Note the position and orientation of any mounting brackets or alignment tabs.
10. Inspect Mounting Area: Check the mounting area on the washer tub for damage, cracks, or debris. Wipe clean with a dry cloth. Inspect the wire harness for damage or corrosion.
11. Prepare New Lid Lock: Remove the new lid lock assembly from its packaging. Verify it includes all necessary components: lid lock mechanism, mounting hardware, and strike (if applicable). Some replacement lid locks come with new mounting screws—use these if provided.
12. Position New Lid Lock: Carefully lower the new lid lock assembly into position on top of the washer tub. Align the mounting holes and ensure any alignment tabs or guides fit properly into their slots. The lock mechanism should be positioned to align with the lid strike when the lid is closed.
13. Install Mounting Screws: Insert and tighten the mounting screws to secure the lid lock to the washer tub. Tighten firmly but do not overtighten—plastic mounting points can crack under excessive pressure.
14. Install New Lid Strike (if applicable): If you're replacing the lid strike, position the new strike on the underside of the lid, aligning the mounting holes. Ensure the strike is oriented correctly to engage with the lock mechanism. Secure with the mounting screws. Tighten firmly.
15. Reconnect Wire Harness: Plug the wire harness connector back together. Ensure it clicks securely into place and is fully seated. Verify the connection is tight and won't pull apart.
16. Test Lid Lock Mechanism: Manually close the lid and verify the strike engages with the lock mechanism properly. The lid should close smoothly without binding or misalignment. Open the lid to verify it opens freely (the lock should not be engaged with power disconnected).
17. Reinstall Top Panel: Lower the top panel back into position on the washer cabinet. Ensure the front clips engage properly. Secure the top panel with the mounting screws (in the dispenser cavity or rear corners).
18. Reinstall Dispenser Drawer: Slide the dispenser drawer back into its housing until it clicks into place.
19. Restore Water Supply: Turn on both hot and cold water supply valves (if you turned them off).
20. Restore Power: Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet or turn on the circuit breaker.
21. Test Lid Lock Operation: Close the lid and start a wash cycle. Within 5-10 seconds, you should hear the lid lock engage with an audible click. Try to lift the lid—it should be locked and won't open. Verify the washer proceeds through the cycle normally.
22. Test Lid Unlock: Allow the cycle to complete or press PAUSE/CANCEL. Wait 1-2 minutes for the drum to stop spinning completely. The lid lock should disengage automatically with an audible click, and the lid should open freely.
23. Full Test Cycle: Run a complete NORMAL wash cycle with a small load of towels to verify the lid lock engages and disengages properly throughout all cycle phases (wash, rinse, spin).

Test the lid lock electrically before replacing. Before ordering a new lid lock, verify the lock mechanism is actually faulty. With power disconnected, use a multimeter to test the lid lock switch for continuity. With the lid open (lock disengaged), test across the switch terminals—you should read infinite resistance (open circuit). With the lid closed and lock engaged (you may need to manually push the strike into the lock), you should read near-zero resistance (closed circuit). If the switch tests good but the lock won't engage, the problem is likely the control board or wiring, not the lid lock itself.

Verify proper voltage to the lid lock. Lid locks require 120V AC from the control board to engage the locking mechanism. If your lid lock won't engage, use a multimeter to verify the control board is sending power to the lock when a cycle starts. With the washer plugged in and a cycle started, carefully test for 120V at the lid lock wire harness connector. No voltage means the problem is the control board, wiring, or a blown fuse—not the lid lock. This diagnostic step saves you from replacing a lock that isn't broken.

Lid strike alignment is critical. The most common cause of "lid lock failure" is actually misalignment between the lid strike and the lock mechanism. If the strike doesn't engage properly with the lock, the washer thinks the lid is open and won't start. Check that the strike is securely mounted to the lid, not bent or damaged, and aligns perfectly with the lock mechanism when the lid is closed. Sometimes simply adjusting or replacing the strike solves the problem without replacing the entire lock assembly.Control board issues can mimic lid lock failure. If your new lid lock doesn't work after installation, the problem may be the washer control board, not the lid lock. The control board sends power to engage the lock and monitors the lock switch to verify the lid is secured. A failed relay or damaged circuit on the control board prevents the lock from engaging or causes false lid lock errors. Before replacing the control board, verify all wire connections are secure and test for voltage at the lock connector during cycle start.

Water damage causes premature lid lock failure. If your washer overflowed, leaked from the dispenser, or had water splash onto the top of the tub, water likely entered the lid lock housing and caused corrosion or short circuits. Even after drying, corroded contacts and components will fail. When replacing a lid lock due to water damage, also identify and fix the source of the water intrusion (clogged dispenser, overfilling, damaged tub seal). Otherwise your new lid lock will fail the same way within months.

Lid lock override for emergency access. If your lid lock fails in the locked position and you need to access the washer drum immediately, most models have a manual release. With power disconnected, reach under the top panel and locate the lid lock assembly. Look for a small release tab or lever on the side of the lock housing. Push or pull this tab to manually disengage the lock and open the lid. This is for emergency use only—replace the failed lid lock before using the washer again.

Break-in period for new lid locks. New lid lock mechanisms may be slightly stiff for the first 5-10 cycles as the internal components seat and break in. You may hear louder clicking sounds or notice a slight delay in lock engagement during this period. This is normal. The lock will operate more smoothly after the break-in period. If clicking or delays persist beyond 10 cycles, recheck installation and strike alignment.