W11335100, W10906034, W10854037, W10820043, PS11757898, AP6023856

Whirlpool: WTW5000DW0, WTW5000DW1, WTW5000DW2, WTW5100HW0, WTW5100HW1, WTW5105HW0, WTW6120HW0, WTW6120HC0, WTW7120HW0, WTW7120HC0

Maytag: MVW6230HW0, MVW6230HC0, MVW7230HW0, MVW7230HC0, MVW8230HW0, MVW8230HC0, MVWB765FW0, MVWB765FC0, MVWB835DW0, MVWB835DC0

Amana: NTW4516FW0, NTW4516FW1, NTW4516FW2, NTW4519JW0, NTW4605EW0, NTW4650YQ0, NTW4750YQ0

Kenmore: 110.28002791, 110.28002792, 110.28132791, 110.28132792, 110.29002791, 110.29132791, 110.29132792

Note: This is a partial list. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering. Wire harnesses are model-specific—using an incorrect harness will cause malfunction or prevent proper connections.

Professional: 60-90 minutes
DIY: 120-180 minutes
Difficulty Level: Medium to advanced repair (requires extensive disassembly and careful wire management)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Camera or smartphone (for reference photos)
• Masking tape and marker (for labeling connections)
• Work gloves
• Flashlight

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet. Never work on the washer with power connected. Wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
2. Shut Off Water Supply: Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer.
3. Move Washer: Pull the washer away from the wall to provide access to the rear and sides. You'll need at least 3 feet of clearance for this repair.
4. Remove Dispenser Drawer (if applicable): Pull out the detergent/bleach/fabric softener dispenser drawer completely. Press the release tab and remove it from the washer.
5. Access Control Panel: Remove the screws securing the control panel (typically 2-4 screws on top or sides of the panel, or hidden under the dispenser drawer area). Tilt or lift the control panel forward to access the back side.
6. Document ALL Connections: CRITICAL STEP: Before disconnecting anything, take multiple clear photos of the entire wire harness from different angles. Photograph each connector showing its position, color coding, and orientation. Use masking tape to label each connector with its destination (e.g., "Motor", "Pump", "Valve", "Lock", etc.). The harness may have 10-20+ connections—document everything.
7. Disconnect Control Board Connectors: Starting at the control board, press the release tab on each wire harness connector and carefully pull straight off. Some connectors may be tight—gently wiggle while pulling. Do not pull on the wires themselves, only the connector housings.
8. Access Lower Cabinet (if needed): Depending on your model, you may need to remove the front or rear panel to access connections at the motor, pump, and valves. For top-load washers, you may need to remove the cabinet or access panels. For front-load washers, remove the top panel and/or rear access panel.
9. Trace the Harness Path: Follow the wire harness from the control board down through the cabinet to each component. Note how the harness is routed and secured with clips, ties, or brackets.
10. Disconnect Component Connectors: Working systematically, disconnect the wire harness from each component: motor, drain pump, water inlet valves, door/lid lock, pressure switch, temperature sensors, and any other connected devices. Take photos at each step. Label each connector as you disconnect it.
11. Release Harness Clips: The wire harness is secured to the washer cabinet with plastic clips, zip ties, or retaining brackets. Carefully release or cut these fasteners to free the harness. Note the position of each clip for reinstallation.
12. Remove Old Harness: Once all connections and clips are released, carefully pull the old wire harness out of the washer. Route it through any grommets or openings in the cabinet panels.
13. Inspect for Damage: Examine the old harness for visible damage: frayed wires, melted insulation, corroded connectors, chafing points, or burn marks. This helps identify what caused the failure and prevents repeat problems.
14. Prepare New Harness: Remove the new wire harness from its packaging. Lay it out and compare it to the old harness to verify it's identical. Identify each connector and its destination using your reference photos.
15. Route New Harness: Starting at the control board location, route the new wire harness through the washer cabinet following the same path as the old harness. Thread it through grommets, around sharp edges (use protective grommets if needed), and away from moving parts like the drum or motor pulley.
16. Secure Harness with Clips: As you route the harness, secure it with the original clips, new zip ties, or retaining brackets. Ensure the harness doesn't contact moving parts, hot surfaces (motor, pump), or sharp edges that could cause chafing. Leave slight slack at each connection point to prevent stress on connectors.
17. Connect Component Connectors: Working systematically, reconnect the wire harness to each component using your photos and labels as reference. Push each connector straight onto its mating connector until you hear or feel a click. Verify each connection is fully seated and locked. Connect in this order: motor, drain pump, water inlet valves, door/lid lock, pressure switch, temperature sensors, and any other devices.
18. Verify Component Connections: Gently tug on each connector to ensure it's secure and won't pull apart. Check that no wires are pinched, stretched, or stressed.
19. Connect Control Board Connectors: Route the harness up to the control board area. Reconnect each wire harness connector to the control board using your photos as reference. Push each connector straight onto the board until it clicks. Double-check every connection—incorrect wiring can damage the control board.
20. Verify All Connections: Compare your installation to your reference photos. Ensure every connector is attached, the harness is properly routed and secured, and no wires are pinched or exposed.
21. Reinstall Panels: Replace any cabinet panels, access panels, or covers you removed. Secure with screws.
22. Reinstall Control Panel: Position the control panel back into place and secure with mounting screws.
23. Reinstall Dispenser Drawer: Slide the dispenser drawer back into its housing until it clicks into place.
24. Move Washer Back: Push the washer back into position, leaving a small gap from the wall for hose and wire clearance.
25. Restore Water Supply: Turn on both hot and cold water supply valves.
26. Restore Power: Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet.
27. Test All Functions: Turn on the washer and verify the display lights up. Select different cycles and options to verify all controls respond. Run a short RINSE/SPIN cycle without clothes to verify the washer fills, agitates/tumbles, drains, and spins correctly. Test the door/lid lock, water temperature selection, and spin speed options.
28. Full Test Cycle: Run a complete NORMAL wash cycle with a small load of towels to verify all functions operate correctly throughout the entire cycle. Monitor for any error codes or unusual behavior.

Diagnose before replacing—wire harnesses are expensive. Before ordering a $100+ wire harness, use a multimeter to test continuity through each wire in the harness. With power disconnected, test from the control board connector to each component connector. A good wire should show near-zero resistance (continuity). An open circuit (infinite resistance) indicates a broken wire. Also inspect every connector for corrosion, bent pins, or melted plastic. Sometimes cleaning or repairing a single connector or wire splice can save you from replacing the entire harness.

Water damage is the #1 harness killer. If your washer leaked or overflowed, water likely entered wire connectors and caused corrosion. Even after drying, corroded connectors create high resistance that causes overheating and component failure. When replacing a harness due to water damage, also inspect and address the source of the leak (pump seal, hose, inlet valve, tub seal). Otherwise your new harness will fail the same way.

Routing and securing prevents repeat failures. The new harness must be routed away from moving parts (drum, motor pulley, agitator), hot components (motor, pump), and sharp edges. Use protective grommets where wires pass through metal openings. Secure the harness with clips or zip ties every 8-12 inches to prevent movement and chafing. A poorly routed harness will fail within months due to wire damage from vibration and movement.

Connector orientation and pin alignment matter. Most connectors are keyed and can only connect one way, but some can be forced on incorrectly or offset by one pin position. Always compare your installation to reference photos. An incorrectly connected harness sends voltage to the wrong circuits and can destroy the control board, motor controller, or other expensive components instantly when power is applied.

Test before full reassembly. After connecting the new harness but before reinstalling all panels, restore power and run a quick test cycle. Verify all functions work correctly: filling, agitating/tumbling, draining, spinning, and locking. This allows you to catch any connection errors before you've fully reassembled the washer. If something doesn't work, recheck your connections immediately.

Address the root cause of harness failure. Wire harnesses don't fail randomly—something caused the damage. Common causes include water leaks (corrodes connectors), excessive vibration (chafes wires), overheating components (melts insulation), or manufacturing defects. Identify and fix the underlying problem or your new harness will fail prematurely. If the washer has been leaking, repair the leak source. If wires chafed, improve routing and add protective sleeving.

Strain relief at connectors is critical. When routing the new harness, leave 2-3 inches of slack at each connector location. This prevents stress on the connector pins when the washer vibrates or components move slightly. Tight, stretched wires pull on connectors and cause intermittent connections or broken pins. Proper slack extends harness life significantly.

• Washer won't start or turn on
• Washer displays error codes (motor, pump, lock, or valve errors)
• Washer stops mid-cycle and won't restart
• Motor runs but drum doesn't turn
• Drain pump doesn't activate (water won't drain)
• Water inlet valves don't open (washer won't fill)
• Door/lid lock doesn't engage or unlock
• Temperature settings don't work correctly
• Spin cycle doesn't activate or is weak
• Intermittent electrical problems (works sometimes, not others)
• Burning smell from washer during operation
• Visible damaged, frayed, or melted wires
• Corroded or loose wire connectors
• Washer trips circuit breaker intermittently
• Control board shows power but components don't respond
• Water leaks caused electrical short in harness
• Drum movement caused wire chafing and shorts