Flat-Style Glow Bar Igniter, Radiant Igniter, Hot Surface Igniter, Bake Igniter

WB2X9998, WB13K21, WB13K10, WB13K10029, WB13K10030, WB13K10031, WB13K10032, WB13K10033, WB13K10034, WB13K10035, WB13K10036, WB13K10037, WB13K10038, WB13K10039, WB13K10040, WB44X200, WB44X201, WB44X5007, WB44X5009, WB44X5010, WB44X5011, WB44X5012, WB44X5013, WB44X5014, WB44X5015

GE, General Electric, Westinghouse, Monogram, Café, Moffat, Profile, Sears, McClary, Hotpoint, Kenmore, Danby

GEJB645RKSS, JB645RKSB, JB735RKSS, JB735RKSB, JB840RKSS, JB840RKSB, JGB645RKSS, JGB645RKSB, JGB735RKSS, JGB735RKSB, JGB840RKSS, JGB840RKSB, JGP645RKSS, JGP645RKSB, JGP735RKSS, JGP735RKSB, JGP840RKSS, JGP840RKSB, PGB645RKSS, PGB645RKSB, PGB735RKSS, PGB735RKSB, PGB840RKSS, PGB840RKSB, PGP645RKSS, PGP645RKSB, PGP735RKSS, PGP735RKSB, PGP840RKSS, PGP840RKSB

WestinghouseWGB645RKSS, WGB645RKSB, WGB735RKSS, WGB735RKSB, WGB840RKSS, WGB840RKSB, WGP645RKSS, WGP645RKSB, WGP735RKSS, WGP735RKSB, WGP840RKSS, WGP840RKSB

MonogramZGB645RKSS, ZGB645RKSB, ZGB735RKSS, ZGB735RKSB, ZGB840RKSS, ZGB840RKSB, ZGP645RKSS, ZGP645RKSB, ZGP735RKSS, ZGP735RKSB, ZGP840RKSS, ZGP840RKSB

CaféCGB645RKSS, CGB645RKSB, CGB735RKSS, CGB735RKSB, CGB840RKSS, CGB840RKSB, CGP645RKSS, CGP645RKSB, CGP735RKSS, CGP735RKSB, CGP840RKSS, CGP840RKSB

MoffatMGB645RKSS, MGB645RKSB, MGB735RKSS, MGB735RKSB, MGB840RKSS, MGB840RKSB, MGP645RKSS, MGP645RKSB, MGP735RKSS, MGP735RKSB, MGP840RKSS, MGP840RKSB

ProfilePGB645RKSS, PGB645RKSB, PGB735RKSS, PGB735RKSB, PGB840RKSS, PGB840RKSB, PGP645RKSS, PGP645RKSB, PGP735RKSS, PGP735RKSB, PGP840RKSS, PGP840RKSB

SearsSGB645RKSS, SGB645RKSB, SGB735RKSS, SGB735RKSB, SGB840RKSS, SGB840RKSB, SGP645RKSS, SGP645RKSB, SGP735RKSS, SGP735RKSB, SGP840RKSS, SGP840RKSB

McClaryMCB645RKSS, MCB645RKSB, MCB735RKSS, MCB735RKSB, MCB840RKSS, MCB840RKSB, MCP645RKSS, MCP645RKSB, MCP735RKSS, MCP735RKSB, MCP840RKSS, MCP840RKSB

HotpointHGB645RKSS, HGB645RKSB, HGB735RKSS, HGB735RKSB, HGB840RKSS, HGB840RKSB, HGP645RKSS, HGP645RKSB, HGP735RKSS, HGP735RKSB, HGP840RKSS, HGP840RKSB

KenmoreKGB645RKSS, KGB645RKSB, KGB735RKSS, KGB735RKSB, KGB840RKSS, KGB840RKSB, KGP645RKSS, KGP645RKSB, KGP735RKSS, KGP735RKSB, KGP840RKSS, KGP840RKSB

DanbyDGB645RKSS, DGB645RKSB, DGB735RKSS, DGB735RKSB, DGB840RKSS, DGB840RKSB, DGP645RKSS, DGP645RKSB, DGP735RKSS, DGP735RKSB, DGP840RKSS, DGP840RKSB

Professional Repair Time: 30-45 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 45-75 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Moderate (3/5) — Requires electrical knowledge, receptacle removal and installation, wire connections, and moderate mechanical skill

1. Turn off electrical power to the range at the circuit breaker to ensure complete power disconnection.
2. Turn off the gas supply to the range at the gas shutoff valve (typically located behind the range or in the basement).
3. Verify power is off by attempting to turn on the oven. The oven should not display any power indicators or attempt to heat.
4. Verify gas is off by checking that the gas shutoff valve is in the closed (perpendicular) position.
5. Allow the oven to cool completely if it has been used recently.
6. Remove all oven racks from the oven cavity to provide clear access to the oven burner and igniter.
7. Take multiple photos of the old igniter position, mounting, and wire connections before disassembly. Document the igniter from multiple angles. This is critical for proper reassembly.
8. Open the oven door fully and locate the oven burner at the bottom of the oven cavity.
9. Locate the igniter mounted near the oven burner (typically on the left or right side of the burner tube).
10. Take a photo of the wire connections to the igniter before disconnecting.
11. Remove the oven bottom panel if necessary to access the igniter mounting screws (some models require bottom panel removal, others allow access from inside the oven).
12. Locate the wire connector attached to the igniter wire leads. It's typically a white plastic connector or ceramic wire nut.
13. Disconnect the wire connector by pulling it straight apart or turning the ceramic wire nut counterclockwise. Do not pull on the wires—grasp the connector body.
14. Remove the mounting screws that secure the igniter to the burner bracket (typically 2 screws). Support the igniter as you remove the last screw to prevent it from falling.
15. Carefully remove the old igniter from the burner bracket. Handle with care—the ceramic element is fragile.
16. Place the old igniter on a clean work surface with adequate space for inspection.
17. Inspect the old igniter for visible damage such as cracks, breaks, discoloration, or carbon buildup. This confirms the diagnosis.
18. Inspect the burner tube for blockages, rust, or damage. Clean the burner tube if necessary before installing the new igniter.
19. Inspect the wire leads and connector for damage, melting, or corrosion. Replace damaged wires or connectors before installing the new igniter.
20. Unpack the new WS01F01201 igniter from its packaging. Handle with extreme care—the ceramic element is very fragile and can break easily.
21. Verify the igniter specifications match the old igniter: flat-style glow bar design, approximately 4-5" long, 1.75" ceramic base, 3.5-4.0 amp rating, two wire leads with ceramic wire nuts.
22. Compare the new igniter to the old one to verify the dimensions, mounting hole spacing, wire lead length, and overall appearance match. Ensure you have the correct replacement part.
23. Inspect the new igniter for any damage or defects before installation. The ceramic element should be intact with no cracks, chips, or breaks.
24. Remove the protective plastic sleeves from the new igniter's wire lead lugs (if present). Set these aside—you'll reinstall them after connecting the wires.
25. Position the new igniter on the burner bracket, aligning the mounting holes with the screw holes in the bracket.
26. Install the mounting screws through the igniter mounting holes and into the burner bracket. Tighten gently but firmly—do not overtighten, which can crack the ceramic base.
27. Verify the igniter is securely mounted and does not wobble or shift when gently pressed.
28. Verify the igniter is positioned correctly relative to the burner tube. The igniter should be close to the burner ports (approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch) but not touching the burner.
29. Connect the igniter wire leads to the range wiring harness using the ceramic wire nuts. Push the ceramic wire nuts onto the wire connections firmly until tight.
30. Verify the wire connections are secure by gently tugging on the wires. None should pull loose.
31. Slide the protective plastic sleeves over the wire lead lugs (if provided) to insulate the connections.
32. Route the wires neatly away from the burner and igniter to prevent them from contacting hot surfaces during operation.
33. Reinstall the oven bottom panel if it was removed, ensuring all screws are tight.
34. Reinstall the oven racks at the desired height positions.
35. Turn on the gas supply at the gas shutoff valve (turn valve to parallel position).
36. Restore electrical power at the circuit breaker.
37. Turn on the oven to 350°F to verify proper igniter operation.
38. Observe the igniter through the oven door (use the oven light if available). The igniter should begin to glow orange within 30-60 seconds.
39. Verify the igniter glows bright white within 60-90 seconds of turning on the oven.
40. Listen for the gas valve to open and gas to flow to the burner (you may hear a soft hissing sound).
41. Verify the gas ignites within 90 seconds of turning on the oven. You should see a blue flame across the burner.
42. Verify the flame is steady and even across the entire burner. The flame should be blue with minimal yellow tipping.
43. If the igniter glows but gas doesn't ignite, turn off the oven immediately and verify the gas supply is on and the burner tube is not blocked.
44. If the igniter doesn't glow at all, turn off the oven and verify the wire connections are secure and power is present.
45. Allow the oven to reach set temperature and verify proper heating performance.
46. Check for gas leaks around all gas connections using a soap and water solution. Bubbles indicate a leak—tighten connections or call a professional if leaks persist.
47. Turn off the oven and allow it to cool for 10-15 minutes.
48. Test baking with actual food (such as a cake or cookies) to confirm the repair is complete and the oven heats properly.
49. Monitor the oven for 24-48 hours of normal use to ensure it operates properly without unusual noises, smells, or performance issues.

Safety Notes: Always turn off electrical power at the circuit breaker and gas supply at the shutoff valve before working on the oven. Gas appliances can cause fire, explosion, or carbon monoxide poisoning if not properly installed or maintained. The igniter ceramic element is extremely fragile—handle with care to avoid breaking. Never operate the oven with a damaged or broken igniter. Ensure all wire connections are secure and correct before restoring power. Check for gas leaks after installation using soap and water solution. If you smell gas at any time, turn off the gas supply immediately, ventilate the area, and call your gas company or a professional technician. This repair requires electrical and gas knowledge and moderate mechanical skill—if you're uncomfortable with the process, consult a professional technician.

Always inspect the surface element for damage before installing the new receptacle. A damaged or shorted surface element can cause the new receptacle to fail prematurely. Inspect the element for visible breaks, blisters, or gaps in the coil. Test the element with a multimeter for continuity (should read 30-50 ohms for most elements). Replace the element if it's damaged or shows signs of wear.

Document all wire connections before disconnecting. Take clear photos of the wire connections, wire colors, and wire routing before removing the old receptacle. This documentation is critical for proper reassembly and prevents wiring errors that can damage the new receptacle, element, or control board.

Use high-temperature wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. The 12001676 kit includes high-temperature wire nuts and heat shrink tubings designed to withstand the heat from the surface element. Always use these components—standard wire nuts and electrical tape can melt or fail at high temperatures.

This receptacle is designed for coil-style surface elements only. The 12001676 is compatible with coil-style (spiral) surface elements on Whirlpool and affiliated brand ranges. It is not compatible with smooth-top, induction, or gas ranges. Verify your range type (electric coil) matches before ordering.

Surface element receptacle replacement is a moderate repair. This repair requires electrical knowledge, moderate mechanical skill, and specialized tools (screwdrivers, wire strippers, heat gun, multimeter). Installation typically takes 30-45 minutes for professionals or 45-75 minutes for DIY repairs.

Monitor the first few heating cycles after installation. After installing the new receptacle, run several heating cycles and monitor for proper element heating, no sparking or arcing, no burning smells, and proper temperature control. Address any issues immediately before they affect cooking performance or safety.

Verify the wire connections are tight and secure. Loose wire connections can cause arcing, sparking, burning, or receptacle failure. After installation, verify each wire nut is tight by tugging gently on the wires. None should pull loose.

The receptacle operates at 240 volts and high current. The 12001676 receptacle operates at 240 volts and carries electrical current up to 20 amps. This is extremely dangerous—always turn off power at the circuit breaker before working on the range. Never touch the receptacle or wires while power is on.

Check the infinite switch for proper operation. If the element doesn't heat after receptacle replacement, the infinite switch (which controls power to the element) may be faulty. Test the switch by listening for a clicking sound when the element control is turned on. If you don't hear a click, the switch may need replacement.

Verify the terminal block ceramic is intact. The ceramic terminal block must be intact with no cracks, chips, or breaks. Damaged ceramic can cause electrical arcing or receptacle failure. Inspect the ceramic carefully before installation.

This repair restores full surface element functionality. A properly functioning receptacle provides secure electrical connection to the surface element. Replacing a faulty receptacle restores normal heating performance and prevents cold spots or uneven heating.

Never attempt to repair a burned or melted receptacle. Attempting to repair a burned or melted receptacle by cleaning, sanding, or applying epoxy can cause electrical shock, fire, or complete failure. Always replace a damaged receptacle with a new one.

The receptacle should not spark or arc during operation. When the element is turned on, the receptacle should not spark, arc, or emit smoke. Any of these symptoms indicates a problem—turn off the element immediately and verify connections.

This repair is cost-effective compared to range replacement. The cost of receptacle replacement ($80-150) is far less than the cost of a new range ($1,200-3,000+). Replace the receptacle promptly when failure is detected to prevent the need for expensive range replacement.

Verify the pigtail terminals are fully inserted into the receptacle. The surface element's pigtail terminals must be fully inserted into the receptacle terminal slots to ensure proper electrical contact. Partially inserted terminals can cause arcing, sparking, or poor heating.

The new receptacle may feel slightly different than the old one. New receptacles may have slightly different terminal tension or fit compared to the old receptacle. This is normal—the terminals should hold the element securely without excessive force.

Monitor for burning smells after installation. After installing the new receptacle, monitor for burning smells during the first few heating cycles. A slight smell from manufacturing oils burning off is normal and should dissipate within 5-10 minutes. Persistent burning smells indicate a problem.

This repair maintains cooktop safety and performance. A properly functioning receptacle is essential for safe, reliable cooktop operation. Damaged or burned receptacles can cause electrical shock, fire, or complete element failure. Replace damaged receptacles promptly.

The wire leads must be properly insulated. The receptacle wire leads carry 240 volts and high current. All connections must be properly insulated using high-temperature wire nuts and heat shrink tubing to prevent electrical shock or fire.

Verify the mounting bracket is secure. The receptacle mounting bracket must be securely mounted to the cooktop frame. Loose mounting can cause the receptacle to shift, damaging the ceramic or causing terminal misalignment.

Check the range wiring harness for damage. Before installing the new receptacle, inspect the range wiring harness for melting, corrosion, or damage. Damaged wires can cause the new receptacle to fail prematurely or create electrical hazards.

This receptacle is compatible with most Whirlpool-brand ranges. The 12001676 is designed for most Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and affiliated brand electric ranges with coil surface elements. Verify your range model number matches one of the compatible models before ordering.

The terminal block must be oriented correctly. The receptacle terminal slots must face toward the front of the range to properly accept the surface element pigtail terminals. Verify correct orientation before tightening the mounting screws.

Never use standard electrical wire nuts. Standard electrical wire nuts are not rated for high temperatures and can melt or fail when exposed to heat from the surface element. Always use the high-temperature wire nuts included in the kit.

This repair extends range life and maintains resale value. Replacing a faulty receptacle promptly maintains the cooktop's functionality and safety, extending range life and preserving resale value.

Verify the element fits securely in the new receptacle. After installation, verify the surface element fits securely in the new receptacle without excessive looseness or tightness. The element should insert smoothly and be held securely by the terminal block.

The receptacle ceramic block is heat-resistant but fragile. The ceramic terminal block is designed to withstand high temperatures but is fragile and can crack if dropped or mishandled. Handle with care during installation.

Monitor the receptacle temperature during operation. The receptacle will become warm during element operation but should not become excessively hot or smoke. If the receptacle becomes too hot or smokes, turn off the element immediately and verify connections.

This repair prevents electrical shock and fire hazards. A properly functioning receptacle ensures safe electrical connection to the surface element. Replacing a faulty receptacle prevents electrical shock, fire, or complete element failure.

Check for proper element seating after installation. After installing the element on the new receptacle, verify the element sits level on the drip pan and is properly seated in the receptacle. Improper seating can cause poor heating or terminal damage.

The receptacle wire leads should not contact hot surfaces. Route the receptacle wire leads away from the surface element and other hot surfaces to prevent melting or insulation damage. Use the mounting bracket and heat shrink tubing to protect the wires.

Verify the infinite switch is sending power to the receptacle. If the element doesn't heat after receptacle replacement, use a multimeter to verify the infinite switch is sending 240 volts to the receptacle when the element control is turned on. If no voltage is present, the switch may be faulty.

This repair improves cooktop reliability and baking results. A properly functioning receptacle ensures consistent element heating and reliable cooking performance. Replacing a faulty receptacle restores confidence in cooktop operation and cooking results.

Never operate the range with a loose receptacle. A loose receptacle can cause terminal misalignment, arcing, sparking, or complete element failure. Ensure the receptacle is securely mounted before operating the range.

The receptacle should be replaced as a complete kit. The 12001676 includes all necessary components (ceramic block, bracket, wires, wire nuts, heat shrink tubing). Never attempt to use individual components from different kits, which can cause incompatibility or safety issues.

Monitor the element for proper heating after installation. After installing the new receptacle, verify the surface element heats evenly across the entire coil. Uneven heating or cold spots indicate a problem—verify terminal connections and element condition.

This repair restores full cooktop functionality. A properly functioning receptacle is essential for reliable surface element operation. Replacing a faulty receptacle restores full cooktop functionality and cooking capability.

• Oven does not heat (igniter glows but gas doesn't ignite)
• Igniter glows weakly or not at all when oven is turned on
• Igniter takes much longer than normal to ignite gas (more than 90 seconds)
• Oven heats slowly or doesn't reach set temperature
• Igniter glows but gas valve doesn't open
• Intermittent oven heating or cycling on and off
• Clicking sound without gas ignition
• Oven burner doesn't light
• Igniter cracks or breaks during operation
• Oven temperature fluctuates during baking
• Gas smell without ignition (dangerous—turn off gas immediately)
• Igniter glows orange but never turns white-hot
• Oven takes multiple attempts to ignite