LG: WM2233HW, WM2233HD, WM2277HW, WM2277HB, WM2455HW, WM2455HG, WM2487HWM, WM2487HRMA, WM2688HWM, WM2688HNMA, WM3470HWA, WM3470HVA, WM3875HWCA, WM3875HVCA

LG (continued): WD-12275BD, WD-12276BD, WD-13276BDM, WD-14316BDK, WM2016CW, WM2032HW, WM2050CW, WM2101HW, WM2140CW, WM2233HU, WM2301HW, WM2301HR, WM2350HWC, WM2350HRC

Kenmore: 796.41122410, 796.41122411, 796.41122412, 796.41123410, 796.41302010, 796.41302011, 796.41303010, 796.41309010, 796.42322900, 796.42323900

Note: This is a partial list. LG uses this pump in many front-load washer models manufactured between 2005-2015. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering.

Professional: 45-60 minutes
DIY: 90-120 minutes
Difficulty Level: Medium repair (requires tilting washer and working underneath)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 10mm socket or nut driver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Towels (for water spillage)
• Shallow pan or bucket
• Work gloves
• Flashlight

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet. Never work on the washer with power connected.
2. Shut Off Water Supply: Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer.
3. Move Washer: Pull the washer away from the wall to provide access to the rear and sides. You'll need at least 3 feet of clearance.
4. Drain Residual Water: Place towels on the floor. Locate the drain pump filter access panel at the lower front of the washer (usually bottom right corner). Open the small door and slowly unscrew the drain filter cap. Allow water to drain into your pan. Expect 1-2 cups of water. Remove the filter completely and set aside.
5. Disconnect Drain Hose: At the rear of the washer, disconnect the drain hose from the standpipe or laundry sink. Lower the hose end into a bucket to drain any remaining water from the hose.
6. Tilt Washer Back: Carefully tilt the washer backward against the wall or have a helper support it. You need access to the bottom of the washer. Some technicians prefer to lay the washer on its side on a blanket—either method works.
7. Access the Pump (Bottom Access): With the washer tilted or on its side, you'll see the pump assembly attached to the bottom of the washer tub. It's typically located near the front, connected to hoses and the drain filter housing.
8. Disconnect Hoses: The pump has 2-3 hoses connected: inlet hose from tub, outlet hose to drain, and possibly a recirculation hose. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze and slide the spring clamps away from the pump connections. Carefully pull each hose off the pump. Have towels ready—water will spill out. Note the position of each hose for reinstallation.
9. Disconnect Wiring: Locate the wire harness connector on the pump motor. Press the release tab and pull the connector straight off the pump. Take a photo for reference.
10. Remove Mounting Hardware: The pump is secured to the washer base or tub with 2-4 screws or mounting clips (typically 10mm). Remove all mounting screws. Note the position of any mounting brackets or spacers.
11. Remove Old Pump: Once all screws and connections are removed, carefully pull the old pump assembly away from the washer. Tilt it to drain any remaining water into your pan.
12. Inspect Pump Housing: Check the old pump for debris. Remove the pump cover (if accessible) and inspect the impeller cavity for coins, bobby pins, small socks, or other objects that may have caused the failure. Even with a new pump, these objects will cause immediate failure if not removed from the system.
13. Clean Hose Connections: Wipe the hose ends clean of any debris, lint, or residue. Check hoses for cracks or damage—replace if necessary.
14. Install New Pump: Position the new pump in the mounting location, aligning the mounting holes and hose connections. Ensure any gaskets or seals are properly positioned.
15. Secure Pump: Install all mounting screws and tighten securely. Do not overtighten—the pump housing is plastic and can crack.
16. Reconnect Hoses: Slide each hose back onto the correct pump connection (inlet, outlet, recirculation). Push hoses fully onto the barbed fittings. Slide the spring clamps back into position over the hose connections. Ensure clamps are positioned at least 1/4" from the hose ends and are tight.
17. Reconnect Wiring: Plug the wire harness connector back onto the pump motor. Ensure it clicks securely into place.
18. Reinstall Drain Filter: Screw the drain filter back into the filter housing. Hand-tighten firmly—do not overtighten or you'll strip the threads.
19. Return Washer to Upright Position: Carefully lower the washer back to its normal upright position or lift it off its side.
20. Reconnect Drain Hose: Reattach the drain hose to the standpipe or laundry sink. Ensure it's secured and won't fall out during operation.
21. Move Washer Back: Push the washer back into position, leaving a small gap from the wall for hose clearance.
22. Restore Water Supply: Turn on both hot and cold water supply valves.
23. Restore Power: Plug the washer back into the electrical outlet.
24. Test for Leaks: Run a DRAIN/SPIN cycle without clothes. Watch underneath the washer (use a flashlight) for any water leaks from hose connections or the pump area. Stop immediately if leaks are detected and recheck all connections.
25. Full Test Cycle: Run a complete NORMAL wash cycle with a small load of towels to verify proper pump operation, drainage, and spin performance.

Before replacing the pump, check for blockages in the drain path. Remove the drain filter and inspect for coins, bobby pins, buttons, small socks, or other debris. Also check the drain hose for kinks or clogs. An estimated 30% of "pump failures" are actually just blockages. Test the old pump by blowing through the inlet—air should flow freely through to the outlet. If blocked, you may only need to clean it, not replace it.

Test the pump electrically before installing the new one. Use a multimeter to check the pump motor windings for continuity. With the pump disconnected, test across the motor terminals—you should read approximately 5-15 ohms (varies by model). An infinite reading means the motor windings are open (burned out). A reading near zero indicates a short circuit. This confirms your diagnosis.

Inspect the drain hose and filter housing. While you have access to the pump, check the drain hose for cracks, holes, or deterioration. Also inspect the filter housing for cracks—a damaged housing causes leaks and allows debris to bypass the filter and damage the new pump. Replace any damaged components now to prevent repeat failures.

Hose clamp positioning is critical. When reconnecting hoses, ensure spring clamps are positioned properly over the barbed fittings. Clamps should be at least 1/4" from the hose end. Squeeze clamps fully closed—loose clamps cause leaks and water damage to your floor. After installation, tug gently on each hose to verify it won't pull off.Foreign object check is mandatory. The #1 cause of LG pump failure is foreign objects (coins, bra wires, bobby pins) jamming the impeller. Even with a new pump installed, these objects will cause immediate failure if they're still in the system. Check the tub boot (door seal), drain hose, and filter housing for any objects. Remove everything you find.

LG-specific error code reset: After installing the new pump, LG washers may retain old error codes in memory. To clear codes and reset the system, unplug the washer for 60 seconds, then plug it back in. This clears the control board memory and allows the washer to recognize the new pump.

Break-in and priming: The new pump may make unusual gurgling or cavitation sounds for the first 1-2 cycles as it primes and purges air from the system. This is normal. If loud grinding or humming persists beyond 2 cycles, stop the washer and recheck for obstructions or improper installation.

• Washer won't drain water (clothes soaking wet)
• Water remains in tub at end of cycle
• Washer displays drain error codes (OE, LE, dE, dE2)
• Loud humming noise during drain cycle (pump motor running but not pumping)
• Grinding or rattling noise from pump area
• Pump motor won't start (no sound during drain cycle)
• Washer stops mid-cycle with water in tub
• Slow drainage (takes 10+ minutes to drain)
• Intermittent drainage problems
• Water leaks from bottom of washer during drain
• Burning smell from washer during drain cycle
• Washer drains but won't spin
• Water drains out between cycles (pump won't hold water)
• Visible damage or cracks in pump housing