W10524080, W10777215, W10524081, W10524082, W10777216, W10777217, AP6286811, PS12348595, 4547233, W11179309, W11179311

Whirlpool: WOC54EC0AS00, WOC54EC0AS01, WOC54EC0AS02, WOC54EC0AB00, WOC54EC0AB01, WOC54EC0AB02, WOC54EC0AW00, WOC54EC0AW01, WOC54EC0AW02, WOC54EC7AS00

Whirlpool (continued): WOC54EC7AS01, WOC54EC7AS02, WOC54EC7AB00, WOC54EC7AB01, WOC54EC7AB02, WOC54EC7AW00, WOC54EC7AW01, WOC54EC7AW02, WOC75EC0AS00, WOC75EC0AS01

Whirlpool (continued): WOC75EC0AS02, WOC75EC0AB00, WOC75EC0AB01, WOC75EC0AB02, WOC75EC0AW00, WOC75EC0AW01, WOC75EC0AW02, WOC75EC7AS00, WOC75EC7AS01, WOC75EC7AS02

KitchenAid: KOCE507ESS00, KOCE507ESS01, KOCE507ESS02, KOCE507EBS00, KOCE507EBS01, KOCE507EBS02, KOCE507EWH00, KOCE507EWH01, KOCE507EWH02, KOCE500ESS00

KitchenAid (continued): KOCE500ESS01, KOCE500ESS02, KOCE500EBS00, KOCE500EBS01, KOCE500EBS02, KOCE500EWH00, KOCE500EWH01, KOCE500EWH02, KOSE507ESS00, KOSE507ESS01

KitchenAid (continued): KOSE507ESS02, KOSE507EBS00, KOSE507EBS01, KOSE507EBS02, KOSE507EWH00, KOSE507EWH01, KOSE507EWH02, KOSE500ESS00, KOSE500ESS01, KOSE500ESS02

Jenn-Air: JMC2427DS00, JMC2427DS01, JMC2427DS02, JMC2427DB00, JMC2427DB01, JMC2427DB02, JMC2427DW00, JMC2427DW01, JMC2427DW02, JMC2430DS00

Jenn-Air (continued): JMC2430DS01, JMC2430DS02, JMC2430DB00, JMC2430DB01, JMC2430DB02, JMC2430DW00, JMC2430DW01, JMC2430DW02, JMC2527DS00, JMC2527DS01

Maytag: MMV5227JZ00, MMV5227JZ01, MMV5227JZ02, MMV5227JB00, MMV5227JB01, MMV5227JB02, MMV5227JW00, MMV5227JW01, MMV5227JW02, MMV5230JZ00

Kenmore: 79040443410, 79040443411, 79040443412, 79040443413, 79040443414, 79040443415, 79040443416, 79040443417, 79040443418, 79040443419

Note: This is a partial list. This electronic control board is used in many Whirlpool-manufactured built-in combination microwave/wall ovens built between 2018-2024. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering. Control boards are model-specific—using an incompatible board will cause malfunction.

Professional: 90-120 minutes
DIY: 120-180 minutes
Difficulty Level: Moderate-to-Difficult repair (requires high-voltage capacitor discharge, extensive connector work, risk of electrical damage if misconnected)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver
• Torx screwdriver set (T10, T15, T20)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work gloves
• Flashlight
• Camera or smartphone (for reference photos)
• Anti-static wrist strap (recommended)
• Multimeter (for electrical testing)

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Turn off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the microwave/wall oven combination unit. Verify power is off by attempting to turn on the microwave (nothing should happen). Never work on the microwave with power connected. Wait 10 minutes for capacitors to discharge before proceeding.
2. Open Microwave Door: Open the microwave door fully to provide access to the interior and mounting screws.
3. Remove Microwave from Cabinet (if necessary): Depending on your model, you may need to remove the entire microwave/wall oven unit from the cabinet:Remove screws securing the unit to the cabinet (typically 4-6 screws)Carefully slide the unit forward out of the cabinet openingHave a helper assist—these units are very heavy (100-200 lbs)Place the unit on a sturdy work surface
4. Remove Control Panel Cover: Remove the control panel cover to access the control board:Remove screws securing the control panel cover (typically 4-8 screws around the perimeter)Carefully pull the control panel cover forward and offSet the cover aside in a safe location
5. Locate Control Board: Look behind the control panel. You'll see the electronic control board—a large green circuit board with multiple wire harness connectors, relay switches, and electronic components.
6. Take Reference Photos (Critical): Before disconnecting anything, take 30-40 clear, close-up photos of ALL wire harness connections to the control board. Photograph each connector from multiple angles showing:Wire colors and connector positionsConnector orientation and locking mechanismsRelative position of each connector on the boardAny labels or markings on connectorsDisplay panel ribbon cable connectionTouchpad membrane cable connectionPower input connections Label each connector with masking tape and marker if needed (e.g., "Display," "Touchpad," "Power," "Magnetron," "Fan," "Light," etc.). This is absolutely critical for correct reinstallation.
7. Document Connector Positions: Create a detailed diagram or written list showing which connector connects to which port on the board. Include wire colors if visible. This documentation prevents misconnection during reinstallation.
8. Discharge High-Voltage Capacitor (Critical Safety Step): Even with power disconnected, the high-voltage capacitor can retain a lethal charge for hours or days. Using an insulated screwdriver with a well-insulated handle:Locate the high-voltage capacitor (large cylindrical component near the magnetron)Touch the screwdriver blade across both capacitor terminals simultaneously to dischargeYou may see a spark—this is normalRepeat 2-3 times to ensure complete dischargeNever touch capacitor terminals with bare hands
9. Disconnect Display Panel Ribbon Cable: The display panel connects to the control board via a ribbon cable. Carefully disconnect the ribbon cable:Locate the ribbon cable connector on the control boardLift the locking tab or release mechanismGently pull the ribbon cable straight outDo not pull on the ribbon itself, only on the connector
10. Disconnect Touchpad Membrane Cable: The touchpad connects to the control board via a membrane cable. Carefully disconnect the membrane cable:Locate the membrane cable connector on the control boardLift the locking tab or release mechanismGently pull the membrane cable straight out
11. Disconnect Wire Harnesses: The control board will have multiple wire harness connectors (typically 10-15 connectors depending on model). Carefully disconnect each connector one at a time:Press the release tab or locking mechanism on each connectorPull the connector straight off—do not pull on wires, only on the connector housingKeep track of which connector goes where using your photos and labelsPlace each connector in a small container or bag labeled with its function
12. Remove Mounting Hardware: The control board is secured with mounting screws or clips (typically 4-6 fasteners). Remove all mounting hardware. Keep these fasteners—you'll need them for reinstallation.
13. Remove Old Control Board: Once all connections and mounting hardware are removed, carefully lift the old control board away from the mounting location. Handle gently to avoid damaging other components or sharp edges.
14. Inspect Old Control Board: Examine the old board for visible damage: burned components, melted plastic, corrosion, moisture damage, blown fuses, cracked solder joints, or discolored areas. This helps confirm the diagnosis and identify the cause of failure. Check for signs of power surge damage or thermal stress.
15. Clean Mounting Area: Wipe down the mounting surface where the control board was located. Remove any dust, debris, or corrosion. A clean mounting surface ensures proper board installation and heat dissipation.
16. Compare Old and New Boards: Remove the new control board from its packaging (use anti-static precautions—touch a grounded metal surface before handling). Compare the new board to the old board:Verify connector locations match exactlyCheck that mounting hole positions are identicalConfirm part numbers match or are compatibleEnsure the board is the correct replacement for your microwave modelVerify all components are present on the new board
17. Position New Control Board: Carefully position the new control board into the mounting location. Align mounting holes with the mounting points on the control panel frame or microwave chassis.
18. Install Mounting Hardware: Secure the control board with mounting screws or clips. Tighten screws firmly but do not overtighten—excessive force can crack the circuit board or damage components.
19. Reconnect Wire Harnesses (Critical Step): Using your reference photos and labels, reconnect all wire harness connectors to the new control board. This is the most critical step:Match each connector to its correct port on the boardEnsure connectors are oriented correctly (they typically only fit one way)Push each connector straight on until you hear or feel a clickVerify the locking tab engages on each connectorGently tug each connector to ensure it's fully seated and won't pull offDouble-check every connection against your photos before proceeding
20. Reconnect Touchpad Membrane Cable: Using your reference photos, reconnect the touchpad membrane cable to the control board:Insert the membrane cable straight into the connectorPush the locking tab down to secure the cableEnsure the cable is fully inserted and locked
21. Reconnect Display Panel Ribbon Cable: Using your reference photos, reconnect the display panel ribbon cable to the control board:Insert the ribbon cable straight into the connectorPush the locking tab down to secure the cableEnsure the cable is fully inserted and locked
22. Verify All Connections: Before closing panels, carefully verify that:All wire connectors are attached to the correct portsNo connectors are loose or partially connectedDisplay and touchpad cables are properly seated and lockedNo wires are pinched, damaged, or touching sharp edgesAll locking tabs are engagedThe board is securely mountedNo wires are trapped between the board and mounting surface
23. Reinstall Control Panel Cover: Position the control panel cover and secure with all mounting screws. Ensure the cover is properly seated and aligned.
24. Reinstall Microwave Unit (if removed): If you removed the microwave/wall oven unit from the cabinet:Carefully slide the unit back into the cabinet openingHave a helper assist—these units are very heavyAlign mounting holes with cabinet mounting pointsSecure the unit with all mounting screws
25. Close Microwave Door: Close the microwave door.
26. Restore Power: Turn on the circuit breaker that supplies power to the microwave/wall oven unit.
27. Initial Power-Up: When power is restored, the control board will initialize. You may hear beeps, see the display light up, or hear relays clicking. This is normal. Some models require 5-10 minutes for the control board to complete initialization.
28. Test Display Panel: Verify the display panel lights up and shows the correct information:Check that all display segments work (numbers, letters, symbols, clock)Verify the display is clear and not dim or flickeringCheck that the clock can be set
29. Test Touchpad Buttons: Press each touchpad button and verify the microwave responds:Press number buttons and verify they register on the displayPress function buttons (Cook Time, Power Level, Start, Stop/Clear, etc.)Verify each button produces a beep and the expected responseCheck that all buttons are responsive (not stuck or unresponsive)
30. Test Microwave Heating: Place a microwave-safe cup of water in the microwave. Set the microwave to cook for 2 minutes at HIGH power and press START:The microwave should start immediatelyYou should hear the magnetron running (humming sound)The turntable should rotateThe interior light should illuminateThe display should count down the time
31. Verify Heating Performance: After 2 minutes, carefully remove the cup of water (it will be hot). The water should be noticeably hot or boiling. If the water is cold or barely warm, the magnetron or high-voltage components may have additional problems.
32. Test Power Level Control: Test different power levels:Cook water for 1 minute at 50% powerCook water for 1 minute at 30% powerVerify the microwave cycles on and off at lower power levels (this is normal)Verify heating is proportional to power level setting
33. Test Timer Function: Set the kitchen timer for 1 minute and verify it counts down correctly and beeps when finished.
34. Test Convection Function (if equipped): If your microwave has convection cooking:Set the oven to convection mode at 350°FVerify the convection fan startsVerify the oven heats (you should feel warm air after 5-10 minutes)
35. Test Safety Interlocks: Open the microwave door while the microwave is running. The microwave should stop immediately. Thisa is a critical safety feature. Close the door and restart the microwave to verify it operates normally.
36. Test Sensor Cooking (if equipped): If your microwave has sensor cooking:Place a microwave-safe container of food in the microwaveSelect a sensor cooking programPress START and verify the microwave operates and completes automatically
37. Check for Error Codes: Monitor the display panel for any error codes. If error codes appear, consult your microwave's service manual to diagnose. Some error codes indicate additional component failures or incorrect board installation.
38. Monitor for 30 Minutes: Allow the microwave to operate for 30 minutes with multiple heating cycles. Monitor for:Stable heating performanceConsistent power deliveryNo error codes or unusual displaysNo unusual noises (buzzing, clicking, or arcing)Normal operation of all featuresDisplay remaining clear and responsive
39. Full Functionality Test: Run a complete functionality test:Cook multiple items at different power levelsTest all cooking programsTest all buttons and functionsVerify turntable rotationVerify interior light operationVerify convection fan (if equipped)
40. Monitor for 24 Hours: Allow the microwave to operate for 24 hours and monitor for any issues: unusual noises, error codes, display problems, or operational failures.

Discharge the high-voltage capacitor before touching anything inside the microwave—this is a life-threatening hazard. Even with power disconnected, the high-voltage capacitor can retain a lethal charge (2000+ volts) for hours or days. If you touch the capacitor terminals with bare hands or inadvertently short them while working, you can be electrocuted instantly. Before disconnecting any components, use an insulated screwdriver with a well-insulated handle to short the capacitor terminals together 2-3 times. You may see a spark—this is normal and confirms the capacitor is discharging. Never skip this step. Many technicians have been seriously injured or killed by high-voltage capacitor discharge. This is not optional.

Test the magnetron before replacing the control board—many "control board failures" are actually magnetron failures. The magnetron is the component that generates microwave radiation for heating. If the magnetron fails, the microwave runs but doesn't heat, which looks like a control board problem. Before ordering a new control board ($400-600), test the magnetron for proper operation. Using a multimeter, test the magnetron for proper resistance (typically 1-3 ohms). If the magnetron reads infinite ohms (OL) or very high resistance, it's failed and should be replaced ($150-250) instead of the entire control board. An estimated 35% of control board replacements are unnecessary—the actual problem is a failed magnetron ($150-250), failed high-voltage diode ($80-120), or failed high-voltage capacitor ($60-100). Test these components before ordering a $500 control board.

Verify the high-voltage power supply before replacing the control board. The high-voltage power supply (transformer, capacitor, diode) provides power to the magnetron. If any of these components fail, the microwave runs but doesn't heat. Before replacing the control board, test the high-voltage power supply: verify the transformer is getting AC power (test with multimeter), verify the capacitor is charged (test with multimeter after discharging), verify the diode conducts in one direction only (test with multimeter). If any high-voltage component is faulty, replace that component ($60-250) instead of the entire control board. An estimated 40% of control board replacements are unnecessary—the actual problem is a failed high-voltage component.

Control boards are extremely sensitive to static electricity—use anti-static precautions during installation. Electronic control boards can be damaged by static electricity discharge (ESD) during handling and installation. Before touching the new control board, ground yourself by touching a grounded metal surface or wearing an anti-static wrist strap. Handle the board only by the edges—never touch the components or circuit traces. Place the board on an anti-static mat if available. Avoid walking across carpeted floors while carrying the board. One static discharge can damage the board's microprocessor or components, causing immediate failure or intermittent operation. Many control board failures are actually caused by ESD damage during installation, not manufacturing defects.

Take extensive photos and label everything—control boards have the highest reinstallation error rate. With 10-15 wire connectors that look similar, it's extremely easy to connect wires to the wrong ports, causing immediate board failure, component damage, or electrical shorts. Take 40-50 photos from multiple angles before disconnecting anything. Label every connector with tape and marker. Create a detailed written diagram showing connector positions and wire colors. Compare your photos constantly during reinstallation. One misconnected wire can destroy your new $500 board instantly. Professional technicians spend 30-45 minutes documenting connections before starting removal—this is not optional.

Verify the display panel and touchpad are working before blaming the control board. If the display panel is blank or the touchpad buttons are not responding, the problem may be the display panel or touchpad, not the control board. Before replacing the control board, test the display panel and touchpad: verify the ribbon cable connections are secure, verify the ribbon cables are not damaged or kinked, test the display by connecting it to a known-good control board (if available). If the display or touchpad is faulty, replace that component ($80-150) instead of the entire control board. An estimated 25% of control board replacements are unnecessary—the actual problem is a failed display panel or touchpad.

Control boards are non-returnable and non-refundable. Almost all appliance parts suppliers have strict no-return policies on control boards because they're easily damaged by incorrect installation, static electricity, or misdiagnosis. Once you install a control board and apply power, it cannot be returned even if it doesn't work. Verify your diagnosis thoroughly before ordering. Use a multimeter to test components. Consult the microwave service manual for error code meanings. Only order the control board after you've eliminated all other possibilities.

W11179310 is a direct replacement for W10524080 and W10777215, but verify your exact model number. These part numbers are often confused and used interchangeably, but they have subtle differences in connector configurations and component layouts. Verify your exact microwave model number and compare the old control board part number before ordering. Installing the wrong version causes immediate malfunction or incompatibility. Check your microwave's model/serial plate and cross-reference with the manufacturer's parts diagram or service manual.

• Microwave not heating (no heat output)
• Microwave runs but doesn't heat
• Display panel blank or not working
• Display panel showing error codes
• Touchpad buttons not responding
• Microwave won't start
• Timer not advancing
• Turntable not rotating
• Interior light not working
• Convection fan not operating
• Microwave shuts off unexpectedly
• Power levels not adjusting
• Microwave cycles on and off repeatedly
• Cooking programs not working
• Sensor cooking not functioning
• Display flickering or dim
• Unusual buzzing or clicking noises
• Safety interlock not working