WR55X10942, WR55X10942P, WR55X11119, WR55X11120, 200D4850G009, 200D4850G010, PS12067194, AP6885432, 4835056, 4835057

GE: GFE28GMKES, GFE28GSKSS, GFE28GYNFS, GNE27JSMSS, GNE27JYMFS, GNE29GYNFS, GSE25HSHSS, GSE25HYNFS, GSS25GSHSS, GSS25IYNFS

GE (continued): PFE28KSKSS, PFE28PSKSS, PYE22KSKSS, PYE22PSKSS, GYE22HSKSS, GYE22GYNFS, GZS22DSJSS, GZS22IYNFS, GDE25ESKSS, GDE25EYKFS

Hotpoint: HSS22GFTSA, HSS22GFTBB, HSS22GFTWW, HSS25GFTSA, HSS25GFTBB, HSS25GFTWW, HSS25IFTSA, HSS25IFTBB, HSS25IFTWW, HTS18GBMWW

Haier: HRF15N3AGS, HRF18N6AGS, HRQ16N3BGS, HRQ20N6BGS, HRB15N3BGS, HRB18N6BGS, HRS21N3BGS, HRS24N6BGS, HRF21N6ASE, HRQ21N6BGS

Note: This is a partial list. This main control board is used in many GE-manufactured side-by-side, French door, and top-freezer refrigerators built between 2015-2024. Verify your specific model number for compatibility before ordering. Control boards are model-specific—using an incompatible board will cause malfunction.

Professional: 45-75 minutes
DIY: 90-150 minutes
Difficulty Level: Advanced repair (requires extensive wire management, precise connector placement, and electrical knowledge)

Required Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work gloves
• Flashlight
• Camera or smartphone (for reference photos)
• Masking tape and marker (for labeling wires)

Step-by-Step Installation:

1. Disconnect Power: Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet or turn off the circuit breaker. Never work on the refrigerator with power connected. Wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge before proceeding.
2. Empty Refrigerator (Recommended): Remove food items from the refrigerator and freezer, or at least from areas where you'll be working. This prevents food spoilage and provides better access.
3. Locate Control Board: The main control board location varies by model:Rear-mounted: Behind the refrigerator at the top or middle back panelInterior-mounted: Inside the fresh food compartment behind the temperature control panel, light shield, or upper rear panelTop-mounted: On top of the refrigerator beneath a cover panel Consult your refrigerator's service manual or look for a plastic housing with multiple wire connectors.
4. Access Control Board (Rear-Mounted): If the board is rear-mounted, pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the back panel. Remove screws securing the rear access panel or control board cover (typically 4-8 screws). Lift the panel off to expose the control board.
5. Access Control Board (Interior-Mounted): If the board is inside the refrigerator, remove shelves and bins as needed. Remove the temperature control panel or light shield by removing screws or releasing clips. This exposes the control board housing.
6. Photograph Wire Connections (Critical): Before disconnecting anything, take multiple clear, close-up photos of ALL wire harness connections to the control board. Photograph each connector from multiple angles showing wire colors, connector positions, and orientation. This is absolutely critical for correct reinstallation. Label each connector with masking tape and marker if needed (e.g., "Compressor," "Defrost," "Display," etc.).
7. Disconnect Wire Harnesses: The control board will have multiple wire harness connectors (typically 6-15 connectors depending on model). Carefully disconnect each connector one at a time:Press the release tab or locking mechanism on each connectorPull the connector straight off—do not pull on wires, only on the connector housingIf connectors are tight, gently wiggle while pullingKeep track of which connector goes where using your photos and labels
8. Remove Mounting Hardware: The control board housing is secured with mounting screws, clips, or brackets (typically 2-6 fasteners). Remove all mounting hardware. Keep these fasteners—you'll need them for reinstallation.
9. Remove Old Control Board: Once all connections and mounting hardware are removed, carefully lift the old control board and housing away from the mounting location. Handle gently to avoid damaging other components.
10. Inspect Old Control Board: Examine the old board for visible damage: burned components, melted plastic, corrosion, moisture damage, or blown fuses. This helps confirm the diagnosis and identify the cause of failure. Check for signs of power surge damage or water intrusion.
11. Compare Old and New Boards: Remove the new control board from its packaging (use anti-static precautions—touch a grounded metal surface before handling). Compare the new board to the old board:Verify connector locations match exactlyCheck that mounting hole positions are identicalConfirm part numbers match or are compatibleEnsure the board is the correct replacement
12. Prepare New Control Board: If the new board comes without a housing, you may need to transfer the old housing to the new board. Remove screws securing the old board to its housing and carefully remove the old board. Install the new board into the housing using the same mounting screws.
13. Position New Control Board: Carefully position the new control board (with housing) into the mounting location. Align mounting holes with the refrigerator mounting points or brackets.
14. Install Mounting Hardware: Secure the control board with mounting screws, clips, or brackets. Tighten screws firmly but do not overtighten—excessive force can crack the plastic housing or damage the board.
15. Reconnect Wire Harnesses (Critical Step): Using your reference photos and labels, reconnect all wire harness connectors to the new control board. This is the most critical step:Match each connector to its correct port on the boardEnsure connectors are oriented correctly (they typically only fit one way)Push each connector straight on until you hear or feel a clickVerify the locking tab engages on each connectorGently tug each connector to ensure it's fully seated and won't pull offDouble-check every connection against your photos before proceeding
16. Verify All Connections: Before closing panels, carefully verify that:All wire connectors are attached to the correct portsNo connectors are loose or partially connectedNo wires are pinched, damaged, or touching sharp edgesAll locking tabs are engagedThe board is securely mounted
17. Reinstall Access Panels: Replace the rear access panel, control panel cover, or light shield. Secure with all mounting screws or clips.
18. Move Refrigerator Back (if applicable): If you moved the refrigerator away from the wall, carefully push it back into position.
19. Restore Power: Plug the refrigerator back into the electrical outlet or turn on the circuit breaker.
20. Initial Power-Up: When power is restored, the control board will initialize. You may hear beeps, see the display light up, or hear the compressor and fans start. This is normal. Some models require 5-10 minutes for the control board to complete initialization.
21. Reset/Configure Settings: Depending on your model, you may need to:Set the temperature controls to desired settings (typically 37°F fresh food, 0°F freezer)Reset the water filter indicator if applicableReconfigure any custom settings (Sabbath mode, alarm settings, etc.)Run diagnostics if your model has a diagnostic mode
22. Test All Functions: Systematically test all refrigerator functions:Cooling: Verify compressor runs and both compartments begin coolingDisplay Panel: Check that all display segments work and respond to button pressesTemperature Controls: Adjust temperature settings and verify the display changesIce Maker: Verify ice maker operates (if equipped)Water Dispenser: Test water dispenser operation (if equipped)Lights: Check that interior lights turn on when doors openDoor Alarms: Test door alarm by leaving door openDefrost Cycle: The defrost cycle runs automatically—you can't test immediately
23. Monitor for 24 Hours: Allow the refrigerator to run for 24 hours and monitor for:Proper cooling in both compartments (use a thermometer to verify temperatures)Normal compressor cycling (runs for 15-30 minutes, then cycles off)No error codes or unusual displaysNormal operation of all features
24. Check for Error Codes: If error codes appear on the display, consult your refrigerator's service manual to diagnose. Some error codes indicate additional component failures or incorrect board installation.
25. Reload Food: Once you've verified proper operation for several hours and temperatures are stable, reload food items into the refrigerator and freezer.

Diagnose before replacing—control boards are expensive and often misdiagnosed. The main control board is one of the most expensive refrigerator parts ($200-400), and it's frequently replaced unnecessarily. Before ordering a control board, systematically test other components: compressor (test start relay and overload protector), temperature sensors (test resistance), defrost system (test defrost heater, thermostat, and timer), and power supply (verify 120V at outlet). An estimated 40% of control board replacements are unnecessary—the actual problem is a failed sensor, compressor component, or wiring issue. A $15 thermistor or $25 start relay can cause the same symptoms as a $300 control board.

Take extensive photos and label everything. Control board replacement has the highest reinstallation error rate of any appliance repair. With 10-15 wire connectors that look similar, it's extremely easy to connect wires to the wrong ports, causing immediate board failure, component damage, or electrical shorts. Take 20-30 photos from multiple angles before disconnecting anything. Label every connector with tape and marker. Compare your photos constantly during reinstallation. One misconnected wire can destroy your new $300 board instantly.

Check for power surges and voltage issues before installing the new board. If your control board failed due to a power surge or voltage spike, installing a new board without addressing the electrical issue will destroy the new board immediately. Test the outlet voltage (should be 115-125V AC). Install a surge protector or whole-house surge protection. If you experience frequent power outages or brownouts, the electrical supply may be damaging appliances. Many manufacturers void warranties if surge damage is evident.

Verify the compressor start relay and overload protector. Control boards often fail because they're repeatedly trying to start a compressor with a bad start relay or overload protector. The board sends start signals, the compressor fails to start, and the repeated cycling damages the board's relay circuits. Before installing a new control board, remove and test the compressor start relay and overload protector. Replace them if they test bad or show signs of burning. Installing a new board without replacing failed compressor components will destroy the new board within weeks.

Control boards are non-returnable and non-refundable. Almost all appliance parts suppliers have strict no-return policies on control boards because they're easily damaged by incorrect installation, static electricity, or misdiagnosis. Once you install a control board and apply power, it cannot be returned even if it doesn't fix the problem. This makes accurate diagnosis absolutely critical before ordering. If you're not confident in your diagnosis, hire a professional technician—paying $150 for a service call is cheaper than buying the wrong $300 control board.

Update firmware if applicable (newer models). Some modern refrigerator control boards have updatable firmware that fixes bugs, improves performance, or adds features. Check the manufacturer's website or service portal for firmware updates for your specific model. Some updates can only be installed by authorized service technicians with specialized equipment. If your refrigerator had recurring issues before the board failed, a firmware update on the new board may prevent the same problems.

Protect against moisture and condensation. Control board failures are frequently caused by moisture intrusion from condensation, water leaks, or high humidity. After installing the new board, inspect all door gaskets for leaks, check the defrost drain for clogs (which cause water backup), and ensure the control board housing has proper seals. If your refrigerator is in a high-humidity environment (garage, basement), consider adding a dehumidifier nearby. Moisture is the #1 killer of refrigerator control boards.

• Refrigerator completely dead (no lights, no cooling, no display)
• Display panel blank or shows garbled characters
• Temperature controls not responding to button presses
• Refrigerator not cooling (compressor won't run)
• Freezer not cooling properly
• Compressor runs continuously without cycling off
• Compressor won't start (clicking sound but no cooling)
• Fans not running (evaporator fan or condenser fan)
• Ice maker not working or not making ice
• Water dispenser not working
• Defrost cycle not operating (frost buildup on evaporator coils)
• Error codes displayed on control panel
• Intermittent cooling (works sometimes, not others)
• Temperature fluctuations (too warm or too cold)
• Lights not working
• Door alarm not functioning
• Sabbath mode stuck on or won't activate
• Control board making clicking or buzzing noises
• Refrigerator resets randomly or loses settings
• Visible damage to control board (burned components, moisture)