Transmission Assembly, Gearcase Assembly, Drive Transmission

WW03F00111VP, AP5669607, PS4242566, EAP4242566, WW03F00112, WW03F00113, WH38X10002, WH38X10003, WH38X10004

GE, Hotpoint

GEGTW460ASJ0WW, GTW460ASJ1WW, GTW460ASJ2WW, GTW460ASJ3WW, GTW460ASJ4WW, GTW460ASJ5WW, GTW460ASJ6WW, GTW460ASJ7WW, GTW460ASJ8WW, GTW460ASJ9WW, GTW460ASJ0MW, GTW460ASJ1MW, GTW460ASJ2MW, GTW460ASJ3MW, GTW460ASJ4MW, GTW460ASJ5MW, GTW460ASJ6MW, GTW460ASJ7MW, GTW465ASN0WW, GTW465ASN1WW, GTW465ASN2WW, GTW465ASN3WW, GTW465ASN4WW, GTW465ASN5WW, GTW465ASN6WW, GTW465ASN7WW, GTW465ASN8WW, GTW465ASN9WW, GTW485ASJ0WW, GTW485ASJ1WW, GTW485ASJ2WW, GTW485ASJ3WW, GTW485ASJ4WW, GTW485ASJ5WW, GTW485ASJ6WW, GTW485ASJ7WW, GTW485ASJ8WW, GTW485ASJ9WW, GTW500ASN0WW, GTW500ASN1WW, GTW500ASN2WW, GTW500ASN3WW, GTW500ASN4WW, GTW500ASN5WW, GTW500ASN6WW, GTW500ASN7WW, GTW500ASN8WW, GTW500ASN9WW, GTW540ASN0WW, GTW540ASN1WW, GTW540ASN2WW, GTW540ASN3WW, GTW540ASN4WW, GTW540ASN5WW, GTW540ASN6WW, GTW540ASN7WW, GTW540ASN8WW, GTW540ASN9WW

HotpointHTW200ASK0WW, HTW200ASK1WW, HTW200ASK2WW, HTW200ASK3WW, HTW200ASK4WW, HTW200ASK5WW, HTW200ASK6WW, HTW200ASK7WW, HTW200ASK8WW, HTW200ASK9WW, HTW240ASK0WW, HTW240ASK1WW, HTW240ASK2WW, HTW240ASK3WW, HTW240ASK4WW, HTW240ASK5WW, HTW240ASK6WW, HTW240ASK7WW, HTW240ASK8WW, HTW240ASK9WW, HTW260ASK0WW, HTW260ASK1WW, HTW260ASK2WW, HTW260ASK3WW, HTW260ASK4WW, HTW260ASK5WW, HTW260ASK6WW, HTW260ASK7WW, HTW260ASK8WW, HTW260ASK9WW

Professional Repair Time: 120-180 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 180-300 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Expert (5/5) — Requires complete basket removal, heavy transmission handling, motor and clutch disconnection, and extensive mechanical skill; professional installation strongly recommended

1. Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet to ensure complete power disconnection.
2. Close the water supply valves at the wall to prevent water discharge during disassembly.
3. Empty the washer of any clothes or items inside.
4. Remove the top panel of the washer by unscrewing the fasteners along the back edge (typically 2-4 screws) and lifting the panel up and away from the cabinet.
5. Take multiple photos of the transmission location, mounting position, and all wire harness and hose connections before disassembly. Document the transmission orientation, agitator position, motor position, and any visible components from multiple angles. This is critical for proper reassembly.
6. Remove the agitator by locating the set screw or bolt at the top center of the agitator, removing it with the appropriate wrench or screwdriver, then pulling the agitator straight up and out of the washer. Some agitators may require twisting while pulling.
7. Remove the agitator cap (if present) by prying it off with a flathead screwdriver or pulling it straight up.
8. Remove the fabric softener dispenser (if present) by pulling it straight up out of the agitator.
9. Locate the basket nut or bolt at the center of the washer basket (drum). This large nut or bolt secures the basket to the transmission shaft.
10. Remove the basket nut or bolt using a large socket wrench (typically 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" socket). The nut may be very tight—use a breaker bar if necessary. Some models require a special spanner wrench.
11. Support the washer basket as you remove the nut to prevent it from falling.
12. Carefully lift the washer basket straight up and out of the washer cabinet. The basket is heavy—use proper lifting techniques or get assistance.
13. Set the basket aside in a safe location where it won't be damaged.
14. Locate the transmission assembly at the bottom center of the washer cabinet. It's connected to the motor, clutch, and drive components.
15. Disconnect all wire harness connectors from the transmission area and surrounding components. Label each connector with masking tape to identify its connection point (e.g., "motor connector," "clutch connector," "shift solenoid").
16. Disconnect the motor from the transmission by removing the mounting bolts (typically 3-4 bolts) and carefully pulling the motor away. Support the motor to prevent it from falling.
17. Disconnect the clutch assembly from the transmission (if separate). Some models have an integrated clutch, while others have a separate clutch that must be removed.
18. Disconnect any hoses connected to the transmission area (typically drain or vent hoses). Label each hose connection with masking tape.
19. Support the transmission with a jack or block to prevent it from falling during removal.
20. Remove the mounting bolts that secure the transmission to the washer cabinet base (typically 4-6 bolts). Support the transmission with your hand or jack as you remove the last bolt.
21. Carefully lower the transmission out of the washer cabinet. Be careful not to damage hoses, wiring, or surrounding components. The transmission is very heavy (45-70 lbs)—use proper lifting techniques or get assistance.
22. Place the old transmission on a clean work surface with adequate space for inspection.
23. Inspect the old transmission for visible damage such as cracked housing, leaking seals (oil or grease leaks), corroded components, broken gears (visible through inspection ports), or water damage. This confirms the diagnosis.
24. Drain any remaining oil or fluid from the old transmission into a suitable container for proper disposal. Some transmissions contain gear oil that must be disposed of properly.
25. Inspect all mounting surfaces on the washer cabinet for damage, corrosion, or wear. Clean the mounting surfaces with a clean cloth if necessary.
26. Inspect the motor coupling for wear or damage. Replace the coupling if it's worn or cracked.
27. Inspect the clutch assembly for wear or damage. Replace the clutch if it's worn or damaged.
28. Inspect all electrical connectors for corrosion, melted insulation, or damage. Clean corroded connections with a wire brush.
29. Unpack the new WW03F00111 transmission assembly from its packaging. Handle carefully to avoid damaging the transmission or internal components.
30. Compare the new transmission to the old one to verify the housing shape, mounting hole positions, shaft configuration, and overall appearance match. Ensure you have the correct replacement part.
31. Verify the transmission is pre-lubricated with gear oil. Most new transmissions come pre-lubricated from the factory. Do not add oil unless specified in the installation instructions.
32. Position the new transmission in the washer cabinet, aligning the mounting holes with the cabinet base holes.
33. Verify the transmission is properly oriented by comparing it to your photos. The transmission must be positioned exactly as the old one was positioned.
34. Secure the transmission with the mounting bolts, tightening firmly but not over-tightening (which can crack the transmission housing or strip threads). Tighten bolts in a cross pattern (diagonal) to ensure even pressure. Torque to manufacturer's specification (typically 40-60 foot-pounds).
35. Verify the transmission is properly seated and does not wobble or shift when gently pushed.
36. Reinstall the clutch assembly (if separate) by aligning it with the transmission shaft and securing the mounting hardware.
37. Reinstall the motor by aligning it with the transmission and securing the mounting bolts. Ensure the motor coupling engages properly with the transmission input shaft.
38. Reconnect all hoses to the transmission area, matching the labels you applied earlier. Ensure each hose is fully seated on the connection point.
39. Reconnect all wire harness connectors to the transmission area and surrounding components, matching the labels you applied earlier. Ensure each connector is fully seated and clicks into place.
40. Verify all connections are secure by gently tugging on each connector and hose. None should pull loose.
41. Reinstall the washer basket by carefully lowering it onto the transmission shaft, ensuring it seats fully on the shaft splines or coupling.
42. Reinstall the basket nut or bolt and tighten firmly with the large socket wrench. Torque to the manufacturer's specification (typically 80-120 foot-pounds).
43. Verify the basket is secure by attempting to lift it—it should not move on the shaft.
44. Reinstall the agitator by aligning it with the transmission shaft and pushing it down firmly. Secure with the set screw or bolt.
45. Reinstall the fabric softener dispenser (if present) by inserting it into the agitator.
46. Reinstall the agitator cap (if present) by snapping it into place.
47. Reinstall the top panel by aligning it with the washer and securing all fasteners along the back edge.
48. Restore the water supply by opening the supply valves.
49. Plug the washer back in and restore power.
50. Run a test cycle (without clothes) on a full wash cycle to verify proper transmission operation.
51. Verify the washer fills with water during the test cycle. Water should flow into the tub within 10-15 seconds.
52. Verify the agitator moves during the wash phase. The agitator should move back and forth smoothly (approximately 180-degree oscillation) without unusual noises or binding.
53. Listen for the transmission shifting from agitate to spin mode. You should hear a brief clicking or mechanical sound as the transmission shifts.
54. Verify the washer drains at the end of the wash cycle. Water should drain within 1-2 minutes.
55. Verify the basket spins during the spin cycle. The basket should rotate at high speed without unusual vibrations or noises.
56. Listen for grinding, squealing, or clunking noises during the entire cycle. The transmission should operate quietly with only normal mechanical sounds.
57. Monitor for oil or grease leaks throughout the test cycle. Check the floor around the washer and the bottom of the washer cabinet for any leakage.
58. If the agitator does not move during wash, verify the transmission is properly mounted and the agitator is properly seated on the shaft. The transmission may not be engaging properly.
59. If the basket does not spin, verify the transmission is shifting to spin mode and the clutch is engaging. Listen for any unusual noises during the transition from wash to spin.
60. If grinding or squealing noises occur, the transmission may not be properly seated, the motor coupling may be misaligned, or internal components may be damaged. Stop the cycle and verify all mounting and connections.
61. If oil or grease leaks, verify all transmission seals are intact and the transmission housing is not cracked. A leaking transmission may need replacement.
62. If the washer stops mid-cycle, verify the control board or timer is functioning properly and sending proper signals to the transmission and motor.
63. If the transmission does not shift between modes, verify all electrical connections are secure, especially any shift solenoid connectors (if equipped).
64. Run a full wash cycle with a typical load of clothes to confirm the repair is complete and the washer operates normally.
65. Monitor the washer for 24-48 hours of normal use to ensure it operates properly without leaks, unusual noises, or performance issues.

Safety Notes: Always unplug the washer before working on it. Close the water supply valves to prevent accidental water discharge. The transmission is very heavy (45-70 lbs)—use proper lifting techniques, get assistance, or use a jack to support it during removal and installation. Never operate the washer without the transmission installed—this can damage the motor and create safety hazards. Ensure the basket is properly secured to the transmission shaft before operating the washer. This is a major repair requiring significant mechanical skill and specialized tools—if you're uncomfortable with the process, consult a professional technician.

Always verify the motor and clutch are functioning before replacing the transmission. A faulty motor or worn clutch can cause symptoms that mimic transmission failure—no agitation, no spinning, or slow rotation. Before replacing the transmission, verify the motor is running during wash and spin cycles and the clutch is engaging properly. If the motor or clutch is faulty, replace those components instead of the transmission.

Test the motor coupling for wear. The motor couples to the transmission through a rubber or plastic coupling that can wear out or break. A broken coupling prevents power transfer to the transmission. Inspect the coupling carefully and replace if damaged. A worn coupling can cause slipping and slow agitation or spinning.

Inspect the transmission seals for leaks. Water intrusion is a common cause of transmission failure. Inspect all transmission seals carefully for leaks before and after installation. Any leaks must be addressed immediately to prevent water damage to the new transmission. A leaking transmission will fail prematurely.

Verify proper transmission orientation during installation. The transmission must be installed in the correct orientation for the agitator and basket to function properly. Compare the new transmission position to your photos to ensure correct orientation. Incorrect orientation can prevent proper agitation or spinning.

This transmission assembly is model-specific. The WW03F00111 is designed for specific GE and Hotpoint top-load washers. Always verify your washer model number matches one of the compatible models before ordering. Using an incorrect transmission can result in non-fit or improper washer operation.

This is a complete transmission assembly. The WW03F00111 includes the transmission housing, gears, bearings, clutch mechanism, seals, and internal components. All components are pre-assembled and ready for installation. You cannot replace individual components—the entire assembly must be replaced if any part fails.

Transmission replacement is a major repair. This repair requires significant mechanical skill, specialized tools (such as socket sets, torque wrench, breaker bar, spanner wrench), and extensive knowledge of washer mechanics. If you're uncomfortable with the process, consult a professional technician. Improper installation can cause poor performance, leaks, or damage to other washer components.

Monitor the first few wash cycles after installation. After installing the new transmission, run several wash cycles and monitor for proper agitation, proper spinning, unusual noises, vibration, and oil leaks. Address any issues immediately before they affect washing performance or indicate improper installation.

Transmission failure can have multiple causes. If the new transmission doesn't solve the problem, the issue may be with the motor, clutch, control board, timer, or another component. Further diagnosis may be required to identify the root cause.

Keep the transmission dry. Water intrusion is a primary cause of transmission failure. Ensure the washer cabinet is dry and there are no active leaks before installing the new transmission. Regularly inspect the transmission area for signs of water damage or corrosion.

This repair requires professional-grade tools. Transmission installation requires a socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, and possibly a spanner wrench. Improper torque on the basket nut can cause the basket to loosen or the transmission to shift during operation. If you don't have the proper tools, consult a professional technician.

Transmission oil should not be added unless necessary. Most new transmissions come pre-lubricated from the factory. Do not add oil unless the transmission is leaking or the installation instructions specifically require it. Overfilling can cause leaks and poor performance.

If multiple transmissions fail prematurely, check for root causes. If the transmission fails again shortly after replacement, there may be an underlying problem causing premature failure. Common causes include water leaks, motor coupling failure, control board malfunction, or overloading. Identify and fix the root cause to prevent repeated transmission failure.

Verify the mechanical timer or control board is functioning. GE and Hotpoint washers use either mechanical timers or electronic control boards to shift the transmission between agitate and spin modes. If the transmission doesn't shift properly, verify the timer or control board is sending proper signals. Test with a multimeter if necessary.

Check the basket drive block for wear. The basket drive block connects the basket to the transmission shaft. A worn drive block can cause slipping or poor spin performance. Inspect the drive block carefully and replace if worn or damaged.

Inspect the transmission input shaft for damage. The motor couples to the transmission input shaft. A damaged or worn input shaft can cause poor power transfer or grinding noises. Inspect the shaft carefully and replace the transmission if damage is present.

• Washer does not spin (basket doesn't rotate during spin cycle)
• Washer does not agitate (agitator doesn't move during wash cycle)
• Washer stuck in one mode (agitates but won't spin, or vice versa)
• Grinding, squealing, or clunking noises from transmission area
• Excessive vibration during spin cycles
• Agitator or basket rotates slowly or inconsistently
• Oil or grease leaking from transmission area
• Washer stops mid-cycle
• Basket is difficult to rotate by hand
• Transmission makes loud banging or knocking noises
• Washer completes wash cycle but skips spin cycle
• Agitator moves weakly or inconsistently
• Basket spins intermittently (starts and stops randomly)
• Transmission does not shift