Test the element before replacing the switch to avoid unnecessary work. Swap the suspect element with a known-working element from another burner position — if the element works in the other position, the element is good and the switch is bad. You can also test the element with a multimeter: it should read 20–50 ohms (varies by wattage). An open reading (infinite ohms) means the element is bad. When reconnecting wires, terminal identification is critical: H1/H2 typically connect to the heating element, L1/L2 connect to the 240V power supply lines, and P connects to the pilot/indicator light circuit. Incorrect wiring can result in no heat, constant full heat, or a non-functioning indicator light. If you find melted or discolored wire connectors, the connection was likely loose and arcing — cut back the damaged wire and crimp on a new spade connector for a reliable connection. Loose connections are a leading cause of switch failure, so ensure all connections are tight and fully seated. If the old switch shows burn marks or melted plastic around the terminals, inspect the corresponding wires carefully before connecting to the new switch.
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