Lid Switch Assembly, Lid Lock Switch, Safety Switch, Door Switch Assembly, Lid Switch with Wire Harness

3949247, 3949237, 3949239, 3949240, 3949247VP, AP3100003, AP5983746, PS350434, PS11722098, EAP350434, EAP11722098, 1155395

Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Maytag, Amana, Inglis

WhirlpoolLSQ9200LQ2, LSQ9200LQ3, LSQ9200LW0, LSQ9200LW1, LSQ9200PW0, LSQ9200PW1, LSQ9549LQ0, LSQ9549LQ1, LSQ9549LW0, LSQ9549LW1, LSQ9549PW0, LSQ9549PW1, LSR5132AN0, LSR5132AN1, LSR5132BN0, LSR5132BN1, LSR5132EQ0, LSR5132EQ1, LSR5132HQ0, LSR5132HQ1, LSR5132JQ0, LSR5132JQ1, LSR5132LQ0, LSR5132LQ1, LSR5132PQ0, LSR5132PQ1, LSR6132AN0, LSR6132AN1, LSR6132BN0, LSR6132BN1, LSR6132EQ0, LSR6132EQ1, LSR6132HQ0, LSR6132HQ1, LSR6132JQ0, LSR6132JQ1, LSR6132LQ0, LSR6132LQ1, LSR6132PQ0, LSR6132PQ1

Kenmore11022812100, 11022812101, 11022812102, 11022814100, 11022814101, 11022814102, 11022822100, 11022822101, 11022822102, 11022824100, 11022824101, 11022824102, 11022832100, 11022832101, 11022832102, 11022834100, 11022834101, 11022834102, 11022842100, 11022842101, 11022842102, 11022844100, 11022844101, 11022844102, 11023812100, 11023812101, 11023812102, 11023814100, 11023814101, 11023814102, 11023822100, 11023822101, 11023822102, 11023824100, 11023824101, 11023824102

KitchenAidKAWE677BW0, KAWE677BW1, KAWE677BW2, KAWE677BW3, KAWE677BW4, KAWE677BW5, KAWE677BWH0, KAWE677BWH1, KAWE677BWH2, KAWE677BWH3, KAWE677BWH4, KAWE677BWH5

RoperRAX5132RQ0, RAX5132RQ1, RAX5132RQ2, RAX5132RQ3, RAX5132RQ4, RAX5132RQ5, RAX6132RQ0, RAX6132RQ1, RAX6132RQ2, RAX6132RQ3, RAX6132RQ4, RAX6132RQ5

EstateETW5100SQ0, ETW5100SQ1, ETW5100SQ2, ETW5100SQ3, ETW5100SQ4, ETW5100SQ5, ETW5200SQ0, ETW5200SQ1, ETW5200SQ2, ETW5200SQ3, ETW5200SQ4, ETW5200SQ5

MaytagMVWC200XW0, MVWC200XW1, MVWC200XW2, MVWC200XW3, MVWC200XW4, MVWC200XW5, MVWC300VW0, MVWC300VW1, MVWC300VW2, MVWC300VW3, MVWC300VW4, MVWC300VW5

AmanaNTW4500YQ0, NTW4500YQ1, NTW4500YQ2, NTW4500YQ3, NTW4500YQ4, NTW4500YQ5, NTW4600YQ0, NTW4600YQ1, NTW4600YQ2, NTW4600YQ3, NTW4600YQ4, NTW4600YQ5

InglisITW4500SQ0, ITW4500SQ1, ITW4500SQ2, ITW4500SQ3, ITW4500SQ4, ITW4500SQ5, ITW4600SQ0, ITW4600SQ1, ITW4600SQ2, ITW4600SQ3, ITW4600SQ4, ITW4600SQ5

Professional Repair Time: 20-30 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 30-45 minutes
Difficulty Rating: Moderate (2/5) — Requires basic tools, moderate mechanical skill, attention to wire connections and switch positioning

1. Turn off power to the washer at the circuit breaker to ensure complete power disconnection.
2. Unplug the washer from the wall outlet for additional safety.
3. Verify power is off by attempting to start the washer. The washer should not respond.
4. Turn off the water supply to the washer at the hot and cold water shutoff valves.
5. Move the washer away from the wall to provide access to the back panel and top of the washer.
6. Take multiple photos of the old lid switch position, mounting, and wire connections before disassembly. Document from multiple angles. This is critical for proper reassembly.
7. Remove the washer cabinet top by locating the two screws at the back of the top panel (typically near the back corners).
8. Remove the two screws securing the top panel using a Phillips screwdriver or nut driver.
9. Slide the top panel toward the back of the washer approximately 1-2 inches to release it from the front clips.
10. Lift the top panel up and prop it open against the wall, or remove it completely and set it aside in a safe location.
11. Locate the lid switch mounted to the top frame of the washer (typically on the right side near the lid hinge).
12. Take a photo of the wire connections to the lid switch before disconnecting. Note the wire colors and connector orientation.
13. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the lid switch by pressing the locking tab and pulling the connector straight off. Do not pull on the wires—grasp the connector body.
14. Remove the mounting screws that secure the lid switch to the washer frame (typically 2 screws). Support the switch as you remove the last screw to prevent it from falling.
15. Carefully remove the old lid switch from the washer frame.
16. Place the old lid switch on a clean work surface with adequate space for inspection.
17. Inspect the old lid switch for visible damage such as cracks, breaks, corrosion, or burned contacts. This confirms the diagnosis.
18. Inspect the mounting location on the washer frame for damage, corrosion, or debris. Clean the mounting area if necessary using a damp cloth.
19. Unpack the new 3949247V lid switch from its packaging. Handle carefully to avoid damaging the switch body or wire harness.
20. Verify the lid switch specifications match the old switch: gray and green plastic housing, 3-wire harness, spring-loaded actuator, mounting hole spacing.
21. Compare the new lid switch to the old one to verify the dimensions, mounting hole positions, wire harness length, and overall appearance match. Ensure you have the correct replacement part.
22. Inspect the new lid switch for any damage or defects before installation. The switch body should be intact with no cracks or damage, and the actuator should move freely.
23. Trim the plastic wire lead sleeve (if necessary) to the appropriate length for your washer model. The sleeve protects the wire connections.
24. Position the new lid switch on the washer frame, aligning the mounting holes with the screw holes in the frame.
25. Install the mounting screws through the lid switch mounting holes and into the washer frame. Tighten gently but firmly—do not overtighten, which can crack the plastic housing.
26. Verify the lid switch is securely mounted and does not wobble or shift when gently pressed.
27. Verify the lid switch actuator is positioned correctly so it will be depressed when the washer lid is closed. The actuator should align with the lid striker or tab.
28. Connect the wire harness connector to the new lid switch by pushing the connector straight onto the switch terminals until it clicks into place.
29. Verify the wire connection is secure by gently tugging on the connector. It should not pull off—it should be firmly seated.
30. Slide the plastic wire lead sleeve over the wire connections (if provided) to insulate and protect the connections.
31. Route the wires neatly away from moving parts and sharp edges to prevent damage during washer operation.
32. Test the new lid switch before reassembling the washer. Restore power at the circuit breaker and plug in the washer.
33. Close the washer lid and verify the lid switch actuator is depressed.
34. Start a wash cycle to verify the washer operates normally with the lid closed.
35. Open the washer lid during the spin cycle and verify the washer stops spinning immediately. This confirms the lid switch is functioning properly as a safety device.
36. If the washer operates correctly, turn off power at the circuit breaker and unplug the washer.
37. Reinstall the washer cabinet top by positioning it over the washer frame and sliding it forward to engage the front clips.
38. Slide the top panel forward until it is fully seated and flush with the front of the washer.
39. Reinstall the two screws at the back of the top panel and tighten securely.
40. Restore power at the circuit breaker and plug in the washer.
41. Turn on the water supply at the hot and cold water shutoff valves.
42. Move the washer back into position against the wall.
43. Run a complete wash cycle (empty washer, no clothes) to verify proper operation and confirm the repair is complete.
44. Test the lid switch safety function by opening the lid during the spin cycle. The washer should stop spinning immediately.
45. Monitor the washer for 3-5 wash cycles to ensure the lid switch operates properly without issues.

Safety Notes: Always turn off power at the circuit breaker and unplug the washer before working on it to prevent electrical shock. The lid switch is a safety-critical component—never bypass or disable it. Test the new switch before reassembling the washer to ensure proper operation. Ensure all wire connections are secure and correct before restoring power. This repair requires basic tools (Phillips screwdriver, nut driver) and moderate mechanical skill—most homeowners can complete this repair successfully.

1. Always test the new lid switch before reassembling the washer. After installing the new switch, restore power and test the washer with the cabinet top still open. Close the lid and start a wash cycle to verify the washer operates normally. Open the lid during spin to verify the washer stops immediately. This confirms proper installation before reassembly.
2. Document all wire connections before disconnecting. Take clear photos of the wire harness connector orientation, wire colors, and switch position before removing the old switch. This documentation prevents wiring errors that can damage the new switch or control board.
3. The lid switch actuator must align with the lid striker. The spring-loaded actuator on the switch must be positioned so it is depressed when the washer lid is closed. Verify the actuator aligns with the lid striker or tab before tightening the mounting screws. Misalignment prevents the washer from operating.
4. Trim the wire lead sleeve to the correct length. The plastic wire lead sleeve protects the wire connections from moisture and damage. Trim it to the appropriate length for your washer model—too long and it may interfere with other components, too short and it won't provide adequate protection.
5. Never bypass or disable the lid switch. The lid switch is a safety-critical component that prevents injury by stopping the spin cycle when the lid is opened. Never bypass, disable, or jumper the switch to make the washer operate. This creates a serious safety hazard.
6. Lid switch failure can have multiple causes. If the new lid switch doesn't solve the problem, the issue may be with the control board, wiring harness, lid striker, or another component. Further diagnosis may be required to identify the root cause.
7. This repair is cost-effective compared to washer replacement. The cost of lid switch replacement ($40-80) is far less than the cost of a new washer ($600-1,200+). Replace the lid switch promptly when failure is detected to prevent the need for expensive washer replacement.
8. Verify the wire harness connector clicks into place. The wire harness connector should click audibly when pushed onto the switch terminals. If you don't hear a click, the connector may not be fully seated. Verify the connection is secure by gently tugging on the connector.
9. The lid switch is a wear item with limited lifespan. Washer lid switches typically last 5-10 years depending on usage.
10. Check the lid striker or tab for damage. If the lid striker (the tab that depresses the lid switch actuator) is broken or bent, the new lid switch won't function properly. Inspect the lid striker during installation and replace it if necessary.

• Washer not starting when lid is closed
• Washer not spinning or agitating
• Washer stopping mid-cycle when lid is closed
• Washer spinning with lid open (dangerous safety hazard)
• Intermittent operation or cycling on and off
• Error codes displayed (F7E1, Lid, dL)
• Washer filling but not agitating or spinning
• Washer runs but won't advance through cycles
• Lid switch actuator broken or stuck
• Washer control panel unresponsive when lid is closed