Radiant Surface Element, Dual Element, Cooktop Element, Heating Element, Burner Element, Glass Cooktop Element, Left Front/Right Rear Element

WPW10275049, W10275049, W10173896, 316555800, 316224300, 316418400, 316418401, 318198932, 318198824, AP4503405, PS2581859

Whirlpool, Roper, Admiral, Maytag, KitchenAid, Inglis, Crosley, Estate, Amana, Electrolux (replaces W10275049, W10173896)

WhirlpoolG9CE3675XS00, G9CE3675XS01, G9CE3675XS02, G9CE3675XS03, G9CE3675XS04, G9CE3675XS05, GY397LXUS00, GY397LXUS01, GY397LXUS02, GY397LXUS03, GY397LXUS04, GY397LXUS05, GY398LXUS00, GY398LXUS01, GY398LXUS02, GY398LXUS03, GY398LXUS04, GY398LXUS05, WFE510S0AS0, WFE510S0AS1, WFE510S0AS2, WFE510S0AS3, WFE510S0AS4, WFE510S0AS5, WFE510S0HS0, WFE510S0HS1, WFE510S0HS2, WFE510S0HS3, WFE510S0HS4, WFE510S0HS5, WFE515S0EW0, WFE515S0EW1, WFE515S0EW2, WFE515S0EW3, WFE515S0EW4, WFE515S0EW5RoperRES3700SQ0, RES3700SQ1, RES3700SQ2, RES3700SQ3, RES3700SQ4, RES3700SQ5, RES3700SW0, RES3700SW1, RES3700SW2, RES3700SW3, RES3700SW4, RES3700SW5, RES5700SQ0, RES5700SQ1, RES5700SQ2, RES5700SQ3, RES5700SQ4, RES5700SQ5, RES5700SW0, RES5700SW1, RES5700SW2, RES5700SW3, RES5700SW4, RES5700SW5

Professional Repair Time: 30-45 minutes
DIY Repair Time: 45-60 minutes (not recommended for untrained individuals due to high-voltage electrical safety concerns)
Difficulty Rating: High (4/5) — Requires high-voltage electrical knowledge, turning off power at circuit breaker, removing glass cooktop surface, disconnecting and labeling wires, removing old element, installing new element, reconnecting wires to correct terminals, reinstalling cooktop, testing operation with 240V AC connections

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: This repair involves working with high-voltage electrical components (240V AC) inside the range. Always turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker before beginning work to prevent electrical shock and accidental element activation. If uncomfortable with this repair or unfamiliar with high-voltage electrical safety procedures, hire a qualified appliance technician. IMPORTANT: Range electrical repairs should only be performed by qualified technicians familiar with high-voltage appliance safety procedures.TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, nut driver or socket set (typically 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch), needle-nose pliers, flashlight, work gloves, multimeter (for testing).IMPORTANT: This element is designed for smooth glass cooktops only and is positioned for left front or right rear cooktop locations. Verify your range model uses a glass cooktop before ordering. The element size is 6"/9" dual zone with 1200W/2500W ratings.

1. Turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. CRITICAL: Never work on the range while power is on. Ranges operate at 240V AC, which is extremely dangerous.
2. Verify power is off by attempting to turn on the cooktop elements. None should heat.
3. Allow the cooktop to cool completely if it has been used recently. Glass cooktops and radiant elements reach extremely high temperatures (up to 1500°F) and require at least 60-90 minutes to cool to safe handling temperatures.
4. Remove all items from the cooktop surface.
5. Locate the failed radiant surface element. On most Whirlpool ranges, the radiant elements are visible through the glass cooktop surface.
6. Remove the cooktop surface to access the radiant elements. Most Whirlpool glass cooktops are secured with screws or clips at the front and rear edges. Consult your range's service manual for specific removal instructions.
7. Carefully lift the cooktop surface and prop it open using a support rod or have an assistant hold it. Caution: Glass cooktops are heavy and fragile—handle with care to prevent breakage.
8. Take multiple photos of the radiant element location, wire connections, mounting configuration, and component positions before disassembly. CRITICAL: Wire connections and component positions must be exact for proper reassembly and safe operation.
9. Locate the radiant element underneath the cooktop. The element is typically a flat, circular assembly (6"/9" diameter) with wire terminals connected to the infinite switch.
10. Take detailed close-up photos of: all wire connections to the element (typically 2-4 wires with push-on connectors), wire colors and routing, element mounting screws or clips, and element orientation.
11. Disconnect the wire connectors from the radiant element terminals by pulling them straight off. Caution: Do not pull on the wires—grip the connector and pull. If connectors are tight, use needle-nose pliers to gently wiggle and pull.
12. Label each wire with tape or markers indicating its terminal position before disconnection. CRITICAL: Incorrect wiring causes element malfunction or electrical hazards.
13. Remove the element mounting screws or release the mounting clips securing the element to the cooktop frame. Typically 2-4 screws or clips hold the element.
14. Carefully remove the old radiant element from the cooktop frame. Caution: The element may be fragile—handle carefully to prevent breakage.
15. Inspect the old element for damage indicators: visible cracks or breaks in element surface (coil damage), discoloration or burning (overheating), melted or damaged terminals (poor connections), or damaged ceramic insulation (thermal stress). This confirms the diagnosis.
16. Test the old element (optional, requires multimeter): Set multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) between the element terminals. At room temperature, resistance should be approximately 20-30 ohms for the 6-inch zone and 10-15 ohms for the 9-inch zone. If resistance is infinite (open circuit, coil broken), the element has failed. If resistance is very low (near zero), the element may be shorted to ground and should be replaced.
17. Inspect the cooktop frame and mounting area for damage, corrosion, or debris. Clean the mounting area thoroughly.
18. Inspect the glass cooktop surface for cracks or damage. If the glass is cracked, it should be replaced along with the element.
19. Clean the cooktop surface where the element sits, removing any spills, debris, or residue.
20. Unpack the new WPW10275049 radiant surface element from its packaging.
21. Compare the new element to the old one to verify dimensions, terminal configuration, mounting hole spacing, and overall design match.
22. Inspect the new element for any shipping damage before installation. The element surface should be intact, and terminals should be clean and undamaged.
23. Position the new radiant element in the mounting location on the cooktop frame, aligning the mounting holes. Important: The element orientation must match the old element per your detailed photos. This element is positioned for left front or right rear locations.
24. Install the element mounting screws or engage the mounting clips to secure the element to the cooktop frame. Tighten firmly but not excessively. Caution: Over-tightening can crack the element or cooktop frame.
25. Verify the element is securely mounted with no excessive play or movement.
26. Connect the wire terminals to the new radiant element according to your detailed photos and labels. Push each wire connector firmly onto the element terminal until it seats completely. CRITICAL: Loose connections cause electrical problems and potential fire hazard.
27. Verify all wire connections are secure by gently tugging on each wire—should not pull off.
28. Inspect all wire connections for proper seating and no exposed terminals.
29. Carefully lower the cooktop surface back into position, removing the support rod or having your assistant release it.
30. Secure the cooktop surface with screws or clips at the front and rear edges.
31. Restore electrical power by turning on the circuit breaker.
32. Run a test cycle to verify proper radiant element operation:Turn the element control knob to low heat for the 6-inch zoneAfter 1-2 minutes, the element should begin glowing red in the 6-inch inner zoneVerify the element heats evenly across the entire 6-inch zoneTurn the control knob to high heat for the 9-inch zoneAfter 1-2 minutes, the element should glow red across the entire 9-inch zoneVerify the element heats evenly across both zones
33. Check for any burning smell during the test. A slight "new element" smell is normal for the first few minutes, but any strong burning smell indicates problems—immediately turn off the element and diagnose the issue.
34. Test both heating zones (6-inch and 9-inch) to verify proper operation.
35. If the element heats properly with even heat distribution, consistent temperature, and quiet operation, the repair is complete.

Safety Notes: Always turn off power at the circuit breaker before working on electrical components. Ranges operate at 240V AC, which is extremely dangerous. Allow adequate cooling time before beginning work—glass cooktops reach 1500°F. Label all wires before disconnection to ensure correct reassembly. Connect wires firmly to terminals—loose connections cause fire hazard. Handle glass cooktop carefully—it's heavy and fragile. Do not over-tighten mounting screws—can crack element or cooktop. Test operation thoroughly before considering the repair complete. This repair requires high-voltage electrical knowledge and typically takes 45-60 minutes for a qualified technician. If uncomfortable working with 240V electrical components, hire a professional appliance technician. IMPORTANT: Range electrical repairs should only be performed by qualified technicians familiar with high-voltage appliance safety procedures.

1. The WPW10275049 is a dual-zone radiant element with 6-inch (1200W) and 9-inch (2500W) heating zones positioned for left front or right rear cooktop locations—do not confuse it with single-zone elements, elements with different wattage ratings, or elements positioned for other cooktop locations. Whirlpool manufactures several different radiant elements with different sizes, wattage ratings, and cooktop positions. Installing the wrong element causes improper heating, cookware damage, or electrical hazards. Always verify your range model's element size (6"/9"), wattage (1200W/2500W), and cooktop position (left front or right rear) before ordering. The dual-zone design allows you to use the smaller 6-inch zone for small pots and pans (energy efficient) or the full 9-inch zone for large cookware (high power).
2. Before replacing the radiant element, always verify the infinite switch (element control switch) is functioning properly—a faulty switch is often misdiagnosed as a failed element. The infinite switch controls power to the element, cycling it on/off to maintain the selected temperature. If the switch is faulty, the element won't heat even if it's functioning properly. Before replacing the element, test the infinite switch by checking for continuity when turned on. If the switch doesn't show continuity, it should be replaced. If the switch shows continuity but the element still doesn't heat, the element has failed and should be replaced.
3. A tripped thermal limiter is often misdiagnosed as a failed element—the thermal limiter can be reset in some cases without replacing the entire element. The thermal limiter is a safety device that cuts power if the element temperature exceeds safe limits (typically 1600-1800°F). If the element overheats due to a spill, empty cookware, or other condition, the thermal limiter may trip, cutting power to the element. Some thermal limiters are resettable—they automatically reset when the element cools. Before replacing the element, allow it to cool completely (60-90 minutes) and test again. If the element works after cooling, the thermal limiter tripped but reset. If the element still doesn't heat after cooling, the element or thermal limiter has failed permanently and should be replaced.
4. The radiant element should be tested for continuity before replacement to confirm it has failed. Set a multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) between the element terminals. At room temperature, resistance should be approximately 20-30 ohms for the 6-inch zone and 10-15 ohms for the 9-inch zone. If resistance is infinite (open circuit, coil broken), the element has failed. If resistance is very low (near zero), the element may be shorted to ground and should be replaced. If resistance is correct but the element doesn't heat when powered, the problem may be elsewhere (infinite switch, wiring, or control board).
5. Loose wire connections at the radiant element terminals cause electrical problems, intermittent heating, and potential fire hazard. If a wire connection is loose, the electrical resistance at the connection increases, causing heat buildup and arcing. Always connect wires firmly to the element terminals, ensuring each connector seats completely. After connection, gently tug each wire to verify it's secure. If the old element terminals show signs of burning or corrosion, clean them thoroughly or replace the wiring harness.
6. The radiant element operates through electrical resistance heating—when current flows through the high-resistance metal coil, heat is generated through the Joule heating effect. The heating coil is typically made of nichrome alloy (nickel-chromium), which has high electrical resistance and excellent heat resistance. When electrical current flows through the nichrome coil, the resistance generates heat, causing the coil to glow red-hot (1200-1500°F). The heat radiates through the ceramic insulation and glass cooktop surface to the cookware. Over time, the nichrome coil can degrade from thermal stress, causing breaks or weak spots that reduce heating performance.
7. If the new radiant element fails prematurely (within days or weeks), the cause is typically: faulty infinite switch, excessive voltage, defective control board, or defective replacement element. Verify the infinite switch is functioning properly by testing for continuity when turned on. Check the household voltage at the range outlet—should be 240V AC ±10%. If voltage is significantly higher, it can damage the element. If the infinite switch and voltage are correct, the replacement element may be defective—contact the supplier for a replacement or refund.
8. Physical damage to the glass cooktop from heavy cookware impacts or dropped items is a common cause of radiant element failure. When the glass cooktop is cracked or damaged, the element underneath may also be damaged. Always inspect the glass cooktop for cracks before replacing the element. If the glass is cracked, it should be replaced along with the element. Using a cracked glass cooktop is dangerous—the crack can expand during heating, causing glass breakage and potential injury.
9. The dual-zone radiant element uses two separate heating coils—one for the 6-inch inner zone (1200W) and one for the 9-inch outer zone (2500W)—that can be controlled independently. When you select the 6-inch zone on the control panel, only the inner coil is energized, drawing 1200 watts. When you select the 9-inch zone, both coils are energized, drawing 2500 watts total. This dual-zone design provides energy efficiency (use only the power you need) and cooking versatility (accommodate different cookware sizes). If one zone works but the other doesn't, the element has partial coil failure and should be replaced.
10. Proper wire connection polarity is not critical for radiant elements (they operate on AC power), but wire connections must be tight and secure. Unlike some electrical components that require specific polarity, radiant elements operate on alternating current (AC) and work regardless of which wire connects to which terminal. However, wire connections must be tight and secure to prevent electrical problems and potential fire hazard. Always verify connections are firm before restoring power.
11. After replacing the radiant element, monitor the first few cooking sessions carefully to verify proper operation and safety. The element should heat evenly across the entire zone, glow red consistently, and respond properly to control knob adjustments. If any problems occur (no heat, uneven heating, burning smell, sparking, or tripping circuit breaker), immediately turn off the element and diagnose the issue. Do not leave the range unattended during the first few uses after element replacement.
12. The radiant element lifespan is typically 8-12 years with average use, but can be shortened by thermal stress, physical damage, voltage fluctuations, or excessive use. Factors that shorten element life include: rapid temperature changes (thermal stress on coil), heavy cookware impacts (physical damage), voltage spikes or power surges (electrical stress), frequent high-heat cooking (thermal fatigue), spills and boil-overs (corrosion and thermal limiter trips), and empty cookware heating (extreme overheating). To extend element life, avoid rapid temperature changes, use appropriate cookware sizes, clean spills promptly, never heat empty cookware, and use lower heat settings when possible.

GTIN BARCODE

GTIN: Not available for this part.

REPAIR TIME

Professional Repair Time: 30-45 minutesDIY Repair Time: 45-60 minutes (not recommended for untrained individuals due to high-voltage electrical safety concerns)Difficulty Rating: High (4/5) — Requires high-voltage electrical knowledge, turning off power at circuit breaker, removing glass cooktop surface, disconnecting and labeling wires, removing old element, installing new element, reconnecting wires to correct terminals, reinstalling cooktop, testing operation with 240V AC connections

• Element not heating (coil broken or thermal limiter tripped)
• Weak or uneven heating (coil partially damaged)
• Visible cracks or breaks in element surface (coil damage visible through glass)
• Burning smell from cooktop (element overheating or insulation degrading)
• Element glowing but not heating cookware (poor heat transfer)
• One zone working but not the other (partial coil failure in dual-zone element)
• Complete range failure (element shorted, tripping circuit breaker)
• Element cycles on/off excessively (thermal limiter malfunction)
• Discoloration or dark spots on glass cooktop (element overheating)
• Intermittent heating (loose wire connections or coil damage)
• Element heats slowly or unevenly (coil partially broken)
• Cooktop control panel displays error code (element failure detected)